Fall's Designer Beauty

How does a fashion desigher breathe life into a lipstick or a signature scent? From Shakespeare to iconic handbags, they reveal their beauty muses for fall.

model
How does a fashion desigher breathe life into a lipstick or a signature scent? From Shakespeare to iconic handbags, they reveal their beauty muses for fall.
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YSL
"I dreamed of a hothouse garden — a little venomous, like the deep hues of Guido Mocafico's iconic snake photographs," says YSL's new makeup master, Lloyd Simmonds, citing the decadent spirit (and palette) of the brand in the '70s as further inspiration. Color, in the hands of Simmonds, is loud and proud via seriously smoldering violet and teal eyeshadows, saturated plum lipsticks, and cobalt nail lacquers. But for minimalists looking to go a tad less Studio 54, worry not. "Take one bold shade from the collection and use it as an accessory," he advises. "The rest of your face can be completely natural."
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YSL
The colorful makeup nods to the runway and YSL's vibrant history — captured in a book and recent exhibit in Paris.
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YSL
Yves Saint Laurent 5 Colour Harmony for Eyes in Midnight Garden, $56
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YSL
Rouge Volupté Perle Lipstick in Spellbinding Violet, $34.
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bag
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Fendi
Every element of the Fan di Fendi fragrance and design was informed by the brand's heritage, Silvia Venturini Fendi explains. Known as the creative force behind It bags like the Baguette and Peekaboo, the designer turned to the house's ubiquitous gold double-F logo to punctuate the fragrance bottle.
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perfume
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Fendi
Fendi Fan di Fendi Eau de Parfum, $76.
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models
Dan Lecca
Fendi
Perfumer François Demachy nodded to the runway's swingy furs, blending notes of leather and musk into the traditional base of Italian scents like Calabrian tangerine. The kicker? A trio of supermodels — Karmen Pedaru, Anja Rubik, and Abbey Lee Kershaw — star in the campaign.
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models
Dan Lecca
Fendi
"The perfume is like the Peekaboo bag: whispered, classic luxury. " — Silvia Venturini Fendi
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Dolce & Gabbana
With models marching down the Italian designers' fall runway fashioned into bustier-clad "girls" or androgynous "boys," spectators were left doing a double take. Carrying on the theme, the house's makeup collection makes a two-part reveal. First up: the "Passion Duos," constructed with velvety, high-pigment lipstick on the outside, a shimmery sliver of gloss in the middle. "I love lipstick's richness and weight," explains longtime makeup collaborator Pat McGrath. "Add gloss, and it's instantly wearable!" Part due will even appeal to the tomboy set: creamy foundations that mimic a summery Sicilian glow. And yes, the two make a great pair.
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Dolce & Gabbana
At the designers' Portofino house.
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Dolce & Gabbana
The brand's signature red in Passion Duo Lipstick, $34.
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Dolce & Gabbana
"Stefano would be a sparkling gloss; Domenico is more reserved, like classic lipstick. " — Pat McGrath
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Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana Perfect Finish Creamy Foundation, $55.
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Dolce & Gabbana
Scarlett Johansson's shade.
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model
Courtesy of Designer
Givenchy
"Perfume is like couture — it's different on every woman's skin," says designer Riccardo Tisci, who ventures into women's fragrance this fall with a woody-powdery rose blend called Dahlia Noir.
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behind the scences
Dan Lecca
Givenchy
No stranger to the female psyche, Tisci grew up in southern Italy, raised by his mother and eight sisters. "They were all his muses," chimes model Mariacarla Boscono (with Tisci), who now holds that title herself.
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model
Dan Lecca
Givenchy
Each muse had her part in shaping Tisci's debut scent: The central rose note was chosen for his mother, who wears a classic rose splash from Santa Maria Novella; the sisters had veto rights on the 200-plus versions of the perfume; and Boscono's gothic beauty inspired the dark visual concept.
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camera image
Dan Lecca
Givenchy
Behind the scenes.
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box
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Givenchy
"Perfume for me is the strawberry on the cake, a celebration of the past six years of success at the house." — Riccardo Tisci
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candle
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Givenchy
Dahlia Noir Candle, $56.
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body milk
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Givenchy
Givenchy Dahlia Noir Body Milk, $50
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model
Courtesy of Designer
Givenchy
Fall and haute couture look.
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perfume
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Givenchy
Eau de Parfum Spray, $90
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couple on fire escape
Courtesy of Designer
Vera Wang
Leave it to the queen of bridal to create a scent that aims to embody a love affair. "This is a story about a modern Romeo and Juliet," says Vera Wang of her sparkly new floral scent, Lovestruck. No matter that the campaign — which features Leighton Meester and a hunky "Romeo" re-enacting Shakespeare's most famous love scene — was shot on a fire escape in NYC, not a balcony in Verona; Wang just wanted to capture an uptown-meets-downtown spirit.
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napkin
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Vera Wang
She created the logo by scrawling it in lipstick on one of her cocktail napkins, and the burgundy dress (which reflects the bottle design) is a couture piece made for Meester. Juliet should have been so lucky.
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perfume
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Vera Wang
Vera Wang Lovestruck Eau de Parfum, $68.
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designs
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Vera Wang
"It's about a girl who's very rockin' and very downtown, but also feels confident in couture." — Vera Wang
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shoe
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Prada
"We used extreme proportions to create something new, unexpected, and optimistic," says perfumer Daniela Andrier of Prada Candy. Lest you assume it smells like Pop Rocks, it's a cool take on the sweet concept, utilizing Benzoin, a creamy-smelling resin of the Laotian styrax tree (no joke) and a synthetic "pop" of caramel.Design-wise, the team looked to the house's signature saffiano leather and colorful accessories.
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model
Courtesy of Designer
Prada
Art director Jean-Paul Goude dreamed up a video and print ad starring French actress Léa Seydoux as a naughty piano student. The soundtrack wisely avoids the Bow Wow Wow song.
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perfume box
Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
Prada
Fashion illustrator François Berthoud sketched the box art.
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