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MC Does London Fashion Week, Day 1

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MC Does London Fashion Week, Day 1

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Greetings from London! Follow the daily adventures of our London Fashion Week correspondent, Alice Tate, as she covers all of the best collections across the pond.

8:45 a.m.
Hello, Somerset House! Kick-starting a busy day with a coffee at Tom’s Kitchen on site. Crowds of fashion lovers begin to arrive en masse.

9 a.m.: Zoe Jordan
Focusing on what people will wear, not just what photographs well, Zoe Jordan’s fifth collection was admirably wearable. Contemporary, sharp and structured, these sorts of pieces come naturally to architecture-student-turned-designer, Jordan. Looking to Italy for inspiration, her Fall 2013 collection fuses the crispness of Milanese style with butter-soft leathers and digital prints of the Duomo. All-in-all, a collection that gets our closet’s vote.

12 p.m.: Fyodor Golan
Housed at the lavish Savoy Ballroom — an ornamental space for an equally opulent collection — Fyodor Golan presented a structural collection in two halves. The circular walkway set the salon-like scene for an eagerly awaited show, giving way to evening dresses with dramatic drapes and exaggerated pleats. Organza, silk, sequins and sheers, the first half exuded grown-up glamour and captured the designers' inspiration of Luis Bunuel’s Belle De Jour. Translating their inspiration into more wearable options, the second half saw biker leathers, burnt-orange knits and a nod to the smiley. A stand out ensemble featured smiley face-embossed leathers — skirt, top and jacket, complete with beaded leather choker.

1:30 p.m.: Jena Theo
Bubblegum pink meets pony-hair skins. An energetic collection from Jena Theo saw saturated colors, roomy silhouettes and yet another inclusion of the smiley emblem. Presented in the Portico Rooms to an intimate audience, Jeno Theo set a grungy, '90s vibe with her slouchy shapes and smiley-printed pieces. We don't think this '90s trend is going anywhere fast, and we don't really mind.

3:45p.m.: Eudon Choi
There were floral crowns and Russian-fused aesthetics at Eudon Choi. Presented at the Portico Rooms, Choi’s Fall 2013 show began with strong shapes and deconstructed cuts in monochromatic palettes. One to stick to a theme, Choi opted for Russian folk for the season. Exuded through the whole collection — from architectural leathers to romantic Russian doll dresses — it was Piers Atkinson’s babushka headdresses that really brought it home. Volume was key, with wide leather pants, full skirts,z and billowing A-line dresses. For a first season of foraying into knitwear, Choi strayed from the Russian-path slightly, switching structured shapes for cosy, fuzzy knits in pastel pink hues and cobalt blues.

Accompanying leathers and masculine shapes, feminine highlights and color flashes came through the collection in the accessories and embroidery. Delicate details adorned garment fronts and necklines, and floral blooms atop many ensembles brought energy and color to winter. Famed for his mannish outerwear, this season saw Choi taking a more explorative direction.

6 p.m.: PPQ
Running an hour behind schedule — with a queue snaking around the courtyard of Somerset House — PPQ finally got off to a start with a punchy, power-dressing collection. Taking on neons and heavy ‘60s influences, Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker debuted a unique collection with psychedelic prints aplenty. Bodycon shapes and halter dresses under daring fluorescent peacoats — PPQ’s Fall 2013 collection isn’t for the faint of heart.

8 p.m.: Central Saint Martins MA Fashion Show
With an alumni like that of Central Saint’s Martins’, we’ve grown to expect great things from the CSM show. Alas, they didn’t disappoint. A selection of black basics with an innovative use of rope made for a highly creative collection, and proved the power of understatements. For the men, it was less about knots and more about the minuses. Disconnection and cutaways created statement looks that were arguably more suitable for the gym than for the office.

Elsewhere, rope-work continued to bind latex pieces and draw in voluminous shapes, and technology was key in ultra thermo-pleated pieces. In all, the tulle, tailoring, and asymmetric shapes provided an eclectic offering from CSM — but we wouldn’t expect anything less.

9PM: Sass & Bide
“Exploring the evolution of structures and internal mechanics,” Sass & Bide was a mish-mash of monochrome chevrons, metallic knits and pops of sunshine yellow. Known for their chic tailoring and heavy embellishment, Aussie designers Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton executed control again for Fall 2013, across a collection of strapless dresses, tailored blazers and loose pants.

The collection, titled Wintergate, took influences from the man-made world with caged bodices and precise cut-out details. Looking to conquer balance, the collection saw fluidity and structure — a caged corset meets flowing pants, a geometric bodice joins a swaying skirt, and silks are styled with reflective metals and plastic yellows. Showing to a full house in an atmospheric church setting, the collection proved the antipodean duos’ talent sits well with the London crowd.

11PM: PPQ Afterparty
A long day of shows and running in heels came to a close with PPQ’s post-show party. Their annual LFW event gathered just as large a crowd as usual, with style mavens heading over to Mayfair for the martinis. The infamous Playboy Club was the site of this year’s party, complete with — you guessed it — Playboy Bunnies. We left for our beauty sleep relatively early, but the party didn’t look to be quieting down. Expect bleary-eyes on site tomorrow…

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