March 22, 2012

Designing Women

miuccia prada

Photo Credit: Getty Images

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"It-ness" is fickle and some megastars of today will burn out mañana, but women will never recede into the fashion wings ever again. The bigger the jobs women in society do and the more invested in their status they get, the more they're entrusting their images to fellow travelers and trusted sisters who've walked in their shoes, felt the same fabrics, and accommodated the same curves.

Rarely is the F word used in fashion, but there's a feminist cut to both Céline's tailored sleeveless tops and knee-length, knife-pleated skirts for spring — "I really do want to give women this sense of freedom," Philo once said. And there's a female friendliness to McCartney's subtly seductive lace minidresses, long-sleeved but slit to reveal just enough thigh. When asked if working in fashion had made her neurotic about her looks, McCartney conceded: "Only about my weight. And I hope my clothes reflect that. They're meant to make you feel good." Sexy but on a woman's terms also sums up McQueen's metallic tea-length skirts and clean-lined, pearl-embroidered tuxedo. Seems it takes a tough woman to make tender menswear.

For the leading ladies of luxe, the cause isn't sexual politics but entrepreneurship. Women designers seem too busy making wearable clothes to play the diva — this they leave to John Galliano, Christian Siriano, and Kanye West. Coco famously said she didn't make clothes "to have fun ... but to make a fortune." Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig of Marchesa have turned their fledgling brand into a red-carpet rival to giants like Christian Dior. One of Forbes' Most Powerful Women in the World in 2010, Tory Burch opened 32 new stores in Asia and Europe and an 8,000-square-foot flagship on Manhattan's Upper East Side — in a recession, no less. Rather than throw lavish, paparazzi-baiting parties on ostentatious yachts and splash their faces in magazine ads, Philo, Prada, and McCartney take notoriously modest nanosecond bows at the end of every runway show. Burton was so discreet about designing Kate Middleton's dress, it was said several of her own staff were kept in the dark. She confided to a London newspaper that her only thought while witnessing her fairy-tale designer moment unfold at Westminster Cathedral was: "I just hope I don't trip over" — Britishspeak for mess up.

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