Hair Color Rehab
By Maureen Choi
Photo Credit: Firstview
Brown sugar
DIAGNOSIS: Orange streaks.
CAUSES: Sun and excessive heat styling.
SELF-HELP: When brown hair fades, underlying warm tones of red, gold, and orange start to appear, explains Clayton Lee, lead color educator at Bumble and Bumble in NYC, who recommends spot treating with tinted hair powders for a quick fix. "Lightly spritz streaks from root to end in a quick downward motion," she advises. Blue color-depositing shampoos like Aveda Blue Malva Shampoo can also help neutralize orangey shades and liven up drab color.
PRO RX: To combat carroty hues at the salon, ask your colorist to apply an ashy toner that's one to two shades deeper than your current color. "During beach season, getting monthly cool-tone glosses help keep brassiness at bay," explains Lee.
PREVENTION: Spritz on a sun protection mist to help shield against UV rays that cause fading when you're, say, walking to work. But if you're going to be spending a lot of time outside, throw on a broad-rimmed hat or stylish silk scarf, advises Gina Gilbert, senior colorist at the Serge Normant at John Frieda Salon in NYC. To buffer against heat damage, keep blowdrying to a minimum and use a thermal protector before styling. Redken Duo Shield 07 Color Protecting Gel-Cream blocks breakage with xylose, a heat-neutralizing sugar molecule, and cranberry oil.
DIAGNOSIS: Limp locks.
CAUSES: Humidity and semipermanent dyes that coat strands and weigh them down.
SELF-HELP: U.K.-based stylist Lee Stafford suggests sprinkling a half teaspoon of all-purpose flour (a natural thickening agent that won't strip color) into a dollop of shampoo to pump up fine hair. Mix it in your palms and wash as usual. "The flour temporarily puffs up hair, making it look and feel fuller."
PRO RX: "Unlike blondes who bleach their hair — which actually causes the cuticle to swell — brunettes typically use semipermanent dyes that only deposit color, which can make hair look flat," says Sharon Dorram of Sharon Dorram Color at Sally Hershberger. Painting on subtle copper highlights will help physically thicken hair and add more dimension.
PREVENTION: Some women make the mistake of over-conditioning their fine, color-treated hair, Dorram explains. "Deal with hair based on its needs: If it feels parched, use a mask — otherwise skip it and just rinse." Opt for lightweight dry oils when styling and beware of heavy-duty (read: volume-deflating) stylers with greasy ingredients like silicone and mineral oil.
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