It’s day two of Milan Fashion Week, and all eyes are on Fendi’s Fall 2026 runway. Today’s show marks Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut collection as chief creative officer, a role she accepted after nine years at the helm of Christian Dior.
It’s the sort of industry move that even casual fashion fans can appreciate from afar. So few women are tapped to lead the brands that set the biannual style agenda across the four major fashion capitals. (This Milan Fashion Week will also welcome Meryll Rogge to the head of Marni—another rare, and exciting, debut for a female designer.) Second, Chiuri’s appointment doubles as a homecoming for the Italian designer: She started her career at Fendi in 1989, when she was 24 years old.
Chiuri ended up working at the brand for a decade. (She left to join Valentino in 1999.) While there, she crafted some of its most recognizable, enduring pieces—mainly, the Baguette bag immortalized in Sex and the City’s third season. Accessories that resonate with It girls and the masses alike are pretty much guaranteed to appear in today’s show.
In early interviews, Chiuri hinted that runway isn’t just about unleashing the next Baguette onto the market: It’s about starting a new chapter in ready-to-wear, one that can compete with the other power players on the Milan and Paris Fashion Week calendars. "I synthesize my vision for Fendi in this show," she told Vogue. "In the silhouette. In the shoes. For women and for men also—there will be some men in the show, too, absolutely, because we did the collections together."
As an alum of the brand, Chiuri is sensitive to how she can carry the torch for the original Fendis: sisters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda, who were her mentors in the ’80s and ’90s. "I feel the responsibility to do a good job here so that [all the Fendis] can recognize themselves in the brand today," she told WWD. "I want to pay tribute to them and for me this is an honor, and it has a sentimental value."
Marie Claire is keeping close tabs on her homage to Fendi’s past and her plan for its future. Instead of attending the Fall 2026 show in-person at Milan’s Spazio Fendi, editors Halie LeSavage (that’s me!) and Ana Colón are monitoring the livestream right now from New York City. Follow along as we share our unfiltered thoughts on the new Fendi, as each look hits the runway.
Good morning! It's just after 8 A.M. in New York City, and I'm at the edge of my seat waiting to see the new Fendi. So far, the livestream is only providing a view inside the Spazio Fendi, where exposed bulbs hang from the ceiling and the runway sends a message stamped in black: "Less I, More Us." —Halie LeSavage
"It's fitting that the first glimpse we got at Chiuri's Fendi is an accessory, given her history at the house. In the lead-up to Wednesday's show, the brand posted an image of a black pointed-toe leather slingback heel, photographed by American photographer Jo Ann Callis. The way it's shot—with only the woman's ankles and calves visible, and two presumably male hands gripping them—calls back to her famed feminist portrait from 1976, "Hands on Ankles". (Chiuri was a big supporter of female contemporary artists during her time at Dior, often bringing them in as collaborators for shows and campaigns. Clearly, she plans on continuing this at Fendi.)" —Ana Colón
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"The actual runway may also give us a sense of what's to come for Chiuri's Fendi: The phrase 'Less I More Us' is printed in big, block letters in both English and Italian. It's very much in the tradition of her time at Dior, where slogan tees referencing feminist artists and sentiments became a signature. Her debut collection for the French fashion house, with its 'We Should All Be Feminists' T-shirts (a reference to Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's oft-referenced essay), is one of her most emblematic—and not just because it reignited the slogan tee trend we still see today." —Ana Colón
A model at Paris Fashion Week wearing Maria Grazia Chiuri's "We Should All Be Feminists" t-shirt.
"Before a single piece appears on the runway, we'll get a taste of Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fendi era through her front row. Early glimpses of her premiere guest list include actress Uma Thurman and Italian wheelchair fencer Beatrice Vio—who was a frequent attendee at Chiuri's Dior shows." —Halie LeSavage
"And....we're off! The first official look from Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fendi has hit the runway." —Halie LeSavage
Live from Fendi Fall 2026: the first look.
"The set? A loose knee-length shirtdress with a blazer, sheer socks, and pointed-toe heels—all black. The model's also carrying two bags: a tote and a shoulder bag." — Ana Colón
"Up next? Look one is followed by a tailored suit (also black) over a cool blue button-up, no bags. Right off the bat, the collection is very tonally different from Silvia Venturini Fendi's Spring 2026 lineup." —Ana Colón
A cool, streamlined suit for Fendi Fall 2026.
"Like Ana said: This show is a major shift from last season. Maria Grazia Chiuri has stripped almost all the color from the label, focusing on clean, minimal neutrals and pops of fur. The only bits of color I've seen so far arrived on her reworked Baguette bags—rendered in bright animal prints with contrasting leather." —Halie LeSavage
A look at Maria Grazia Chiuri's new Baguette bag.
"Chiuri teased she was going to show some menswear on the runway—I like how, so early in the collection, we're seeing two riffs on the same concept (the black suit over a blue shirt) on both female and male models. The menswear styling has a little flair with the yellow socks." —Ana Colón
A menswear look from the Fendi runway.
"A white button-down with a tea-length skirt strikes me as a tried-and-true Chiuri-for-Dior formula. With sheer black lace, it feels more Italian, and thus Fendi. The leather collar necklace and heels-with-socks styling make it feel less sweet." —Ana Colón
The white shirt, lace skirt look at Fendi Fall 2026.
"I'm also seeing a few Chiuri-isms in the form of semi-sheer, lacy black layers. (Primarily, a few sheath dresses over pants.) Her Dior was filled with several naked dresses per season—it seems she's committed to putting a Fendi twist on the A-list beloved silhouette. Who's going to wear it first on the red carpet?" —Halie LeSavage
One of several naked layers on the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"I'm struck by how pared-back this collection feels. Other than the restrained color palette (mostly black, with touches of white and baby blue, plus the occasional pop of bumblebee yellow in accessories), Chiuri seems pretty focused on drawing these clean lines with tailoring and silhouette. There's not a ton of obvious embellishment, either." —Ana Colón
Another neutral look on the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"While this collection is pared back in styling, it's not in breadth and depth. The selection comprised daily separates, upscale workwear, and plenty of red carpet contender gowns. But Chiuri still opted to end on an understated note: a black, silken dress." —Halie LeSavage
The closing look at Fendi.
"Little print flourishes are coming through first in footwear, with some snake-like embossing, before the collection introduces beige and khakis.
"I'm excited to get a closer look at the handbags—so far, I haven't clocked any Peekaboos, which were the big focus for Spring 2026. Chiuri's accessories, surprisingly, feel more pulled back." — Ana Colón
Neutral accessories and tiger stripes on the Fendi runway.
"Am I seeing things, or did I spot a lucite wedge heel on the runway? I immediately thought of Emma Childs's take on the "It's 2016 again" trend." —Ana Colón
"A still doesn't do this look justice. It's a sleeveless tunic top that drapes beautifully in the back, tucked into tailored trousers made from the same material that seems lightweight, given how it moves. It looks so elegant and grown-up." —Ana Colón
A model on the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"I take back my initial observation regarding pops of color. Maria Grazia Chiuri infused some of the later looks with a delicious cherry red, from a slip dress to a furry stole draped over a bag. These pieces looked even brighter against a backdrop of champagne sequins and neutral furs—another element Chiuri promised would be part of her collection. (Fendi is historically known for its work with furs.)" —Halie LeSavage
Models walk the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"Are we bringing back statement vests in 2026? Watch this space." —Ana Colón
A model wears a furry statement vest on the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"When someone asks me for anything while I'm watching my fashion week livestreams." —Ana Colón
A model wears a "NO" T-shirt on the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"That's the thing about Maria Grazia Chiuri—she loves a statement tee. And really, isn't a powerful 'no' the biggest statement of all?" —Halie LeSavage
"First Peekaboo bag I've clocked on the runway—and I love that it's in a moody cheetah-spotted print that matches the top coat the model is wearing. An underrated matching set." —Ana Colón
Double cheetah print on the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"The closing eveningwear portion is, again, so restrained—but I appreciate how lightweight the gowns look: flowy slips and maxi dresses made from fabrics that move so freely. It gives them an ease and movement I love to see." —Ana Colón
"Agreed! I've interviewed my share of celebrities for our Close-Up column who report needing to lie flat in their town cars, because their dresses are so stiff and uncomfortable. This could be the start of a red carpet styling era that doesn't sacrifice comfort—or elegance." —Halie LeSavage
A closing eveningwear look at Fendi.
"The woman of the hour: Maria Grazia Chiuri took a lap through the show space for her bow. She coordinated with her debut collection in a black blazer, matching trousers, and animal print heels. Inside the venue, guests gave her a standing ovation." —Halie LeSavage
Maria Grazia Chiuri takes her bow at Fendi Fall 2026.
"Well! New Fendi has taken its final lap down the runway, and we fashion editors are left to digest all the looks. I saw Maria Grazia Chiuri keep her promise to revisit Fendi staples, from the bag silhouettes to the geometric, interlocking 'F' logo, with fresh eyes. I also noticed signs of a new, streamlined direction—one that feels a touch more mature than the free-wheeling, sequin-filled bags from last season." —Halie LeSavage
Models close the Fendi Fall 2026 runway.
"The fashion set is now moving on to the next show—and we're moving on to the rest of our Milan Fashion Week coverage. Our Fashion Month hub is the ultimate destination for editors' favorite collections and no-holds-barred reactions to the shows. Want to hit 'Replay' on the Fendi Fall 2026 runway? You can stream it again at Fendi.com.
"I'll be live blogging again from Demna's Gucci debut on Friday, February 27. Ciao for now!" —Halie LeSavage