The Ballet Flat Is Making Room for the Opera Shoe
The Row, Khaite, Bode, and more are reviving the high-cut, slipper-like silhouette for fall.
The ballet flat has been undergoing something of a transformation, with designers pushing the familiar silhouette into increasingly unexpected territory. This summer, it was all about the jazz shoe, with its soft leather and lace-up construction. For fall, that unconventional sensibility is evolving into the opera shoe. Originally worn by men for formal evening occasions in the 19th century, the traditional opera pump was a low-heeled, slip-on style, typically crafted in black patent leather and finished with a grosgrain bow. And while certain designer iterations closely mimic the classic, more modern interpretations—both flat and low-heeled—are giving the historic style a distinctly contemporary appeal.
Clean lines, exaggerated proportions, high-cut vamps, and supple leather that hugs the foot define the modern opera shoe. The result is a sleek, minimalist alternative to the classic ballet flat, with an almost dramatic look that works just as well with relaxed denim as it does with tailored trousers and skirts. Designers and brands like The Row, Cos, and By Far are leaning into the slipper-like silhouette, while Khaite, Bode, and Phoebe Philo offer low-heeled versions that feel closer to the original opera pump. From simple black leather to rich chocolate brown, burgundy, and the occasional pop of red, these are the pairs worth slipping into this fall.
Like classic ballet flats, a simple black opera shoe is the perfect way to embrace the trend. This sleek pair will go with practically everything in your wardrobe.
Ultra-supple leather in the perfect chocolate brown makes this pair from Massimo Dutti a strong contender for your new everyday flat.
Italian leather? Say no more. Banana Republic's take combines a soft, close-fitting silhouette with quality construction made for repeat wear.
For a sharper finish, try a square-toe silhouette. This rich brown pair from Schutz brings a more angular shape to the otherwise soft, slipper-like design.
Lean into a quintessential fall palette with a burgundy opera shoe. It's just as versatile as black or brown, with a little more richness. The bow ties also nod to traditional ballet flats for a slightly more classic look.
A nod to the original opera shoes of the 19th century, this patent leather pair offers a dressier interpretation you can wear with everything from tailored separates to occasion-ready skirts.
Mansur Gavriel combines a sharp square toe with a dramatic V-shaped vamp for a simple yet decidedly interesting take on the trend. No doubt the focal point of any look.
It's often the smallest details that transform a black accessory. Case in point: the polished silver hardware accentuating these sleek leather opera flats.
You can always count on By Far to deliver a modern-looking shoe, and we're particularly taken with the rich brown hue and buttery-soft leather of this pair.
With a rounded toe and ultra-minimalist design, Jenni Kayne's opera shoe is one of the most versatile interpretations of the trend. A worthy contender for your default pair.
Go traditional with Bode's low-heeled, patent leather opera pump, complete with a grosgrain bow. The rich burgundy hue gives the historic silhouette a fresh update.
Sharp and angular, Jimmy Choo's take is particularly striking with tailored trousers, creating a long line through the leg.
Why not go bold with an orange-red opera shoe crafted from suede? A substantial sole adds a practical element for navigating city sidewalks, daily commutes, and long days on your feet.
Phoebe Philo's patent leather, low-heeled opera pump is another traditional-leaning interpretation, stripped back to its most minimalist form.
You can't beat Sam Edelman's opera flat for an under-$200 way to embrace the trend. Its simple silhouette makes it an easy addition to your everyday rotation with a bit of lift.
Naturally, The Row delivers one of the most compelling options for die-hard minimalists. This slipper-style flat is nearly sold out across its various colorways, but a dedicated search may still turn up a few sizes.
Supple leather and a substantial rubber sole make this Dear Frances pair as practical as it is sleek. The glove-like fit lends a wonderfully worn-in feel from the very first wear.
Between the knife-edge heel, squared toe, and glossy finish, Rag & Bone's opera pump is a perfect night-out option, whether you're wearing jeans, a dress, or a sharply tailored suit.
Add a little more texture to your fall wardrobe with this woven leather opera shoe. The intricate finish brings dimension to the otherwise minimal silhouette.
Another classic interpretation of the opera pump, complete with the signature grosgrain bow, tapered round toe, and high vamp. A timeless option for those drawn to the style's original design.
Khaite's glazed calf-leather opera pumps are an ideal companion for your work wardrobe. Try them with fluid dresses and skirts for a sharper, more structured counterpoint.
