LIZA RICHARDSON, 47
Profession: Los Angeles–based KCRW DJ and movie and TV music supervisor
How'd you get into surfing? Years ago, I had a bad first experience—a wave knocked me over. Then, when I was music supervisor on the surf/skateboard movie Lords of Dogtown, I was like, "Damn it, I'm going to do it." My friend and I signed up for 10 lessons.
Surfing feels like... Complete awareness. Nothing else matters.
Tips for beginners? Go by the rules—don't "drop in" on a wave if someone has the right of way.
How many boards do you own? Six. Maybe seven. Eight.
Other key gear? I wear custom Bewet suits.
Best waves? Costa Rica, Mexico, Hawaii. In L.A., Topanga and Santa Monica.
How often do you surf? Conditions usually don't allow surfing every day. But surfing begets surfing. The more you surf, the more you keep surfing.
First stop: Skip Googling "beginner surfing"—head right to a surf shop.
Costs: Board, $500; wet suit, $150; lessons, about $80.