The Hudson Valley Has the Weekend Away Figured Out
Come for the farmhouses, mountain views, and very good food.
The Hudson Valley is hardly a hidden gem. For centuries, New Yorkers have been fleeing the city for a breath of fresh air and a little elbow room, first by steamboat and train, and later for sprawling country estates and summer retreats. Artists got in on the action, too: In the 19th century, the mountains, river, and farmland inspired the Hudson River School and helped cement the region’s reputation as an escape from city life.
More recently, the pandemic sent another wave of New Yorkers north, this time in search of backyards, home offices, and a different pace of life. Restaurants, hotels, shops, and creative businesses followed, no doubt seeing the writing on the wall, and what was already a beloved place to get away from it all became the place to be.
For all the new traffic, the Hudson Valley hasn’t lost what made it appealing from the start. Much of it still feels local and homegrown, and there’s no single way to do a weekend here. You can check into a ritzy resort, hole up in an impeccably put-together rental, eat your way through the region’s farms and restaurants, or spend most of your time outside. Best of all, its proximity to New York makes it one of the easiest weekend trips from NYC, and a weekend away can feel like a much bigger escape than it actually is.
Consider this a choose-your-own-adventure guide to the Hudson Valley, with a more thoughtful approach to traveling baked in: where to stay, what to eat, what’s actually worth doing, and how to make a weekend away feel like you really went somewhere. And if you want to venture a little farther north, our Northern Catskills guide has plenty more worth bookmarking.
One of the Hudson Valley’s greatest luxuries is space, and some of the best places to stay here lean into it. There are plenty of excellent options if you want a proper hotel experience: Inness for its design-minded take on the country club, Wildflower Farms for the full resort treatment, or Mohonk Mountain House for old-school grandeur. But there’s another kind of luxury to be found in having a place entirely to yourself. Rather than checking into a traditional hotel, you can take over an old farmhouse, wake up overlooking fields, and spend a weekend pretending, however briefly, that this is simply where you live now.
Callisto Farm in High Falls makes that fantasy particularly convincing. Set among the 88-acre regenerative farm, the restored 1865 farmhouse feels less like a rental than an extremely stylish friend’s country house. The female-founded property is run by a small team of three women, including founder Amalia Graziani, a designer and developer who restored the house with an eye toward preserving its original character, including wide-plank floors and French windows, while making the interiors feel comfortable rather than overly precious.
Fall may be the ideal time to book it. There’s a fireplace for chilly nights, a deep soaking tub, an outdoor fire pit, and an enormous chef’s kitchen that makes you reconsider whatever dinner reservation you had planned. Outside, the property gives way to fields, gardens, trails, historic barns, and the working farm itself, complete with orchards, vegetable gardens, honeybees, and a particularly charming group of goats.
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It’s cozy without tipping into the usual Upstate clichés, and thoughtfully designed without feeling like you have to be careful where you put your coffee. The beds are exceptionally comfortable, the kitchen begs to be cooked in, and evenings are best spent around the fire with nowhere to be.
The Hudson Valley is extremely good at mixing the genuinely outdoorsy with the delightfully wholesome and old-school. Within the span of a day, you can hike along a dramatic ridgeline, go fly fishing, pick flowers at a working farm, browse for antiques in Kingston, and end up under a disco ball at a roller rink.
If fall foliage is the priority, Minnewaska State Park Preserve is hard to beat. The Lake Minnewaska Loop is an easy 1.9-mile walk around the water, while more ambitious hikers can tackle Gertrude’s Nose, a roughly 7.5-mile loop that opens onto rocky ledges and panoramic views. Nearby Mohonk Preserve has additional hiking, biking, and climbing trails.
The farms are worth exploring beyond apple picking, too. Stars of the Meadow in Accord grows more than 60 varieties of seasonal flowers, foliage, and herbs. Nearby, Ravenwood brings together a farm, café, and rotating art exhibitions inside a restored 19th-century dairy barn.
For an afternoon in town, head to Kingston. Milne Antiques & Design has a sprawling showroom of furniture, art, rugs, and objects, while Red Owl Collective brings more than 70 vintage and antique vendors together inside a former bowling alley. Rough Draft Bar & Books is a good place to break up the shopping with a book and a coffee.
Kelder’s Farm is charmingly old-school, with animals, games, slides, and seasonal picking that make it especially good with kids. And Skate Time delivers the nostalgic carpet, lights, and general time-warp quality you want from a roller rink.
The trick is not trying to cram all of it into one weekend. Pick your level of ambition and remember, there’s always next time.
Eating well in the Hudson Valley doesn’t necessarily mean making a dinner reservation. Local produce is everywhere, and the High Falls Food Co-op, just a few minutes from Callisto, is stocked with produce, bread, cheese, meat, and everything else you need to make a great dinner at home. If you’ve rented one of those beautiful houses with an equally beautiful kitchen, use it. Half the fun is stopping for whatever looks good along the way and figuring out dinner later.
At Callisto, that decision is made for you. The farm has an on-site chef, Monica Lee, and having her cook for you is reason enough to stay there. Much of what ends up on the table is grown right on the property or sourced from nearby farms, and dinner can include the whole thing: multiple courses, wine pairings, and cocktails. Monica is an incredible cook, and the setting is the cherry on top.
You should leave the property eventually, if only for Ollie’s Pizza in High Falls. The pizza is excellent, but I’d argue the supporting cast is just as important: meatballs, broccolini, and a Caesar to write home about. Cherries Ice Cream is five minutes away and makes an old-school soft-serve cone that gives you a pretty convincing reason to save room for dessert.
For lunch, Westwind Orchard is exactly where I want to be on a nice day. Picnic tables, thin-crust pizzas, arancini, and drinks make for an afternoon you don't even mean to end. Arrowood Farms operates on a similar wavelength, with food, beer, cocktails, plenty of space outside, and live music on certain weekends.
Then there’s Inness. You can certainly have dinner there, but I’d go for a drink around golden hour. The bar looks out over a wide meadow toward the mountains, and watching the light change with a cocktail in hand is one of those very simple Upstate pleasures that you'll come back for.
Sara Holzman is the Style Director at Marie Claire, where she oversees fashion coverage spanning seasonal trends, celebrity style, designers, Fashion Month, and shopping. With more than a decade of experience in fashion media, she has held roles at Condé Nast’s Lucky and Self and contributed style and travel coverage to Equinox’s Furthermore. A graduate of the Missouri School of Journalism, Sara is based in New York City, where she writes about fashion through both an industry and personal lens, including the realities of getting dressed as a working mom. Follow her on Instagram at @sarajonewyork.