When shopping for your favorite shampoos and conditioners, leave-ins, and other haircare products, you have to consider several factors: hair type, hair thickness, curl pattern, and, of course, hair porosity. Hair porosity is harder to see with the naked eye, but being aware of your porosity level can (and should) determine products you shop for and how you use them.
"Hair porosity describes how well your hair is able to absorb and retain moisture," explains celebrity hairstylist Larry Sims.
Low porosity hair, for instance, "has an outer layer that has a tight cuticle," according to Alicia Bailey, a licensed master cosmetologist and CEO of Iman Yvonne Beauty. Sim says that because of this structure, follicles cannot easily allow the hair shaft to absorb moisture. Therefore, it's best to use products that penetrate hair follicles without causing buildup that blocks growth.
"Use lightweight products on the hair," agrees Bailey, warning that thick, creamy, or protein-rich products sit on the hair shaft, further impeding moisture absorption.
But with so many hair products on the market that make such similar promises, how can one determine which products have the right consistency for use on low-porosity hair? I had Bailey to break down everything there is to know about shopping for this hair type, from what to look for, to what to avoid, to which products she swears by.
Causes of Low Porosity Hair
A mixture of nature and nurture determine one's hair porosity, so it's important to note how changes to your routine and environment impact your hair health. Sims says, "Heat styling tools, such as flat irons and blow dryers, can damage the hair cuticle, putting you at higher risk for low porosity hair." He also says that if you don't wash your hair frequently, you may foster low-porosity hair because of the amount of product buildup.
However, he notes, "Hair porosity is largely determined by genetics. If you have family members with low-porosity hair, there's a good chance you will too. Something not many people know is that someone can have a mixture of both low- and high-porosity hair." The latter often spells dryness and damage, so if you feel you have combination porosity, be sure keep both your need for hydration and your proneness to buildup top of mind.
What to Look For
"People with low-porosity hair should gravitate towards ingredients that are lightweight," Bailey tells us. "Water-based products that can easily penetrate the hair are great choices." Sims agrees that because low-porosity still craves hydration, water is key to treating it.
And when it comes to hair oils? "If the product has oil in it," she says, "look for lightweight oils like jojoba, babassu, black seed oil, argan or aloe vera. These oils all have a good comedogenic rating, which means they won’t clog the pores of the skin. Therefore, they are very lightweight for the hair and scalp." Sims adds that honey and glycerin are also great for hydrating low-porosity hair from the inside out without weighing it down.
What to Avoid
Both Bailey and Sims recommend steering clear of protein-packed products, explaining that people with low-porosity hair can be protein-sensitive. This means that too much protein would result in buildup, moisture retention issues, and a weighed-down look.
Because low-porosity hair needs an environment that facilitates moisture absorption, Bailey advises, "Avoid heavy butters and creams which could just sit on top of the hair shaft and cause buildup." Options like olive oil and castor oil, for instance, may be too heavy. She adds, "Additionally, avoiding silicones is wise because they create a barrier and sit on top of the hair, making it difficult for the hair to absorb moisture."
The Best Products for Low Porosity Hair
- Best Shampoo for Low Porosity Hair: Mielle Organics Pomegranate & Honey Shampoo
- Best Conditioner for Low Porosity Hair: PATTERN by Tracee Ellis Ross Medium Conditioner
- Best Leave-In for Low Porosity Hair: PATTERN by Tracee Ellis Ross Argan Hair & Scalp Oil Blend
- Best Styling Product for Low Porosity Hair: Verb Curl Foaming Gel
- Best Tool for Low Porosity Hair: Modern Elements 1875W Ionic Pro Rollabout Tourmaline Dryer
The Best Shampoos for Low Porosity Hair
Bailey says that she loves this whole collection from Mielle Organics, explaining that its products are “infused with babassu oil and citrus extracts,” among other natural ingredients, for a formula that supports hydrated hair from the inside out. She also notes that the products in the line are “lightweight and prevent frizz”—an absolute lifesaver during humid summers. The line was made with curls (specifically type 4 hair) in mind, but Mielle promises it works on all curl types and patterns.
Pros: expert-approved; made with low porosity and curly hair in mind; made with natural ingredients; cruelty-free; free of sulfates, SLS, and SLES; affordable; detangling
Cons: may be too thick for looser curl types
This is technically a co-wash, but it's perfect for those who find traditional cleansing too stripping. Sims says, "This is my holy grail product for hair hydration! It’s great for those with low porosity hair because it helps remove product build up but also really hydrates and nourishes the hair."
Pros: Expert-approved; free of silicones, sulfates, and parabens; gentle enough for daily use
Cons: some users say it doesn't lather easily
Scalp scrubs are excellent options for those who suffer from scalp and hair buildup, flakiness, dandruff, and more, and this one from Ceremonia works on all hair types but is made with thick, curly hair top of mind. Featuring Bolivia mountain salt, papaya enzymes, and prickly pear extract in its unique formula, it’s designed to banish buildup for good without stripping hair of its moisture. Customers love it for its frizz-defying impact and for the thoroughly clean feeling they experience after each use.
Pros: made with natural ingredients; supports scalp health; supports hair growth; vegan; cruelty-free; free of gluten, sulfates, SLS, and SLES
Cons: too harsh for use on every single wash
If you’re experiencing severe buildup issues that have made their way to your scalp (causing symptoms like itchiness, greasiness, dandruff, acne, and thwarted hair growth), consider this scalp scrub from one of my favorite haircare brands, Fable & Mane. It’s made to provide instant relief to irritated scalps through a formula that includes neem leaf, amla, and ginger, which is a natural antiseptic. Reviewers love how well it lathers and how clean their hair and scalp feel after just one use.
Pros: free of silicones, sulfates, SLS, and SLES; vegan; clean; banishes buildup; supports scalp health and hair growth
Cons: contains some protein
The Best Conditioners for Low Porosity Hair
Bailey recommends this particular conditioner from Tracee Ellis Ross’ popular brand, Pattern Beauty. She says that it “blends jojoba oil and olive oil and provides hydration without weight.” Indeed, this conditioner is made specifically for low to normal porosity hair, promising to provide lightweight moisture that won’t clump into nasty buildup that disrupts users’ curl patterns. It’s also made to tame frizz and flyaways—the perfect option for curly girls like me who struggle with their baby hairs.
Pros: expert-approved; free of sulfates, SLS, SLES, and parabens; tames frizz; moisturizing; made with low porosity hair and curls in mind
Cons: none found
SheaMoisture has long been a favorite among customers with curly hair, and with good reason. This conditioner is made with low porosity and curly hair in mind, boasting a weightless formula without any added proteins. It also includes ingredients like grapeseed, sunflower seed oil, soybean oil, and jojoba oil for balanced, lightweight moisture that doesn’t leave any buildup. It also contains shea butter, which smoothes down frizz and nourishes hair damaged from breakage, pollution, styling, or heat tools.
Pros: doesn't contain protein; cruelty-free; free of parabens; color-safe; made with low porosity hair in mind; affordable
Cons: strong scent
Bailey says that this entire line of lavender- and agave- infused products by Design Essentials “is a great collection because it provides moisture and protects the curls of the curly girls that desire to smooth their hair temporarily without weighing it down.” I, too, am a huge fan of Design Essentials’ products and can attest to their lightweight consistency and curl-enhancing power. This particular conditioner is popular among reviewers, too, who laud the product for how moisturizing and detangling it is.
Pros: light scent; made to soothe scalp; detangling; expert-approved
Cons: some users find it too thick
This conditioner from Ouidad is perfect for low porosity hair, especially since it’s free from parabens, sulfates, phthalates, and non-water soluble silicones. This means it won’t form any nasty buildup on your hair, and will foster a smoother, more hydrated look as well as better defined curls. Reviewers love its instant impact on reducing frizz, and a number of customers write that the conditioner even helped ameliorate damage from heat tools, swimming, and more.
Pros: free of silicones, sulfates, phthalates, and parabens; curl-defining; smoothing; shine-enhancing
Cons: none found
The Best Styling Products for Low Porosity Hair
I’m not sure what I did with my hair before I discovered this curl revitalizer from Design Essentials. True to its name, it never fails to restore curl definition to my hair after my ringlets have grown limp from styling or from not sleeping in my silk hair wrap. It has a flexible, medium hold that keep hair from looking too shiny or feeling crunchy, and it also conditions strands rather than sitting on the shaft like a film. Finally, it washes out easily, so I never have to worry about accumulating nasty buildup.
Pros: editor-approved; affordable; easy to use; lightweight
Cons: can make hair feel slightly sticky
This lightweight, nutrient-dense argan oil blend is made to soothe damaged hair and dry scalps, and promises to improve hair’s strength and enhance shine. I personally love using argan oil as both a last-minute styling fix and as a regular hair health practice, and this blend promises not to leave any residue on hair. It’s perfect for all hair types and curl patterns, and is even helpful in bringing out one’s natural curls and coils by smoothing unwanted frizz.
Pros: shine-enhancing; supports scalp health; editor-approved; doesn't leave residue; lightweight
Cons: small bottle
Because low porosity hair is so sensitive to buildup and therefore averse to thick products, it can be challenging to find a styling mousse or gel that doesn’t leave this hair type limp and dried out. This foaming gel from Verb, however, is lightweight, crunch-free, and still retains a firm hold that allows you to style your curls however you please. It’s perfect for defining curls and coils, and works to minimize frizz even on the most humid of days.
Pros: lightweight; curl-defining; shine-enhancing; washes out easily; crunch-free; firm hold; moisturizing
Cons: strong scent
Latinx-owned brand Rizos Curls formulated this conditioning yet lightweight leave-in with curly hair in mind. It contains natural ingredients like coconut oil, which reduces frizz, aloe vera for deep conditioning, and shea butter for a deeply moisturizing effect that doesn’t leave hair looking greasy. It’s also free of additives like sulfates and silicones, which can form a thick buildup that prevents low porosity hair from absorbing the nutrients it needs. Reviewers love this products for its ability to soften and nourish curls without weighing them down, and at less than $25 per bottle, who can resist?
Pros: free of parabens, sulfates, and silicones; contains natural ingredients; affordable; lightweight; curl-defining; made with curls and natural hair in mind
Cons: some users didn't find it defining enough on its own
The Best Tools for Low Porosity Hair
Bailey recommends that those with low hair porosity hydrate their hair by applying heat during the conditioning phase. "The heat can be applied by using a plastic cap over the hair under a pre-heated hooded dryer, or a steamer without a cap," she advises. "The heat allows the cuticle to expand and allows the conditioner to penetrate the hair strands." Then, she recommends washing the conditioner out with lukewarm water. This cap, which is lined with terry cloth, is perfect for comfortably sitting under a steamer or hooded dryer.
Pros: lined for a comfortable fit; keeps hair securely inside; helps hair retain moisture
Cons: must be washed frequently
If you’re looking to incorporate heat into your conditioning routine, as Bailey suggests, but you don’t have the time (or funds) to go to the salon regularly, consider bringing the salon home to you. This portable steamer is conveniently positioned on wheels so you can push it around your home whenever it’s time for a deep conditioning, and then stow it away when it’s not in use. And at a price that’s more affordable than most premium hair dryers, you truly can’t go wrong.
Pros: ideal for low porosity hair and curls; minimizes frizz; moisturizes hair; dries hair quickly
Cons: large
Meet the Expert
Alicia Bailey is a licensed master cosmetologist and the CEO and Global Hair Education Director at Iman Yvonne Beauty with over 30 years of experience. She is also an author, life coach, and public speaker, and has owned salons such as Flawless Sessions Hair Salon in Georgia and Flawless Unisex Hair Salon in Hampton, Virginia. She has also worked as an educator for McBride Research Laboratories since 1999, and has worked with a number of women's magazines to promulgate education about black haircare.
Larry Sims is a celebrity hairstylist and co-founder of Flawless by Gabrielle Union, a haircare brand made with curls in mind. He has worked with the likes of Union (of course), Tracee Ellis Ross, Zendaya, Janet Jackson, and more.
