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January 6, 2014

The Rebel Next Door

Name any youthful indiscretion and chances are Drew Barrymore has been there, done that. With scandal in her rearview mirror, the girl-all-grown-up still just wants to have fun.

Behind the Cover: Fashion | Behind the Cover: Beauty

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Photo Credit: Photographs by Jan Welters

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"I found the porn section!" Drew Barrymore is shouting through the narrow aisles of Book Soup in West Hollywood. An older woman perched behind the counter narrows her eyes, watching while Barrymore longingly strokes the spines of several hardback books, none of which contain anything saucier than, well, sauce.

"I looooove cookbooks," Barrymore, 38, exclaims. "I cook a lot when I'm pregnant." The actress-producer-entrepreneur and, with her recent photography volume Find It in Everything, author has a 16-month-old daughter, Olive, with art consultant husband Will Kopelman and is due with their second daughter in March. "When I got pregnant the first time, I couldn't even boil water." By logging long hours on food channels and poring over recipes, she taught herself to cook. "Now I can make the most spectacular slow-roasted pork tacos you will ever have, an incredible verde sauce with ancho chilies—so fucking good." Barrymore eagerly scrolls through her iPhone for her latest triumph: "A Greek yogurt pie with lemon zest and pepper filling on a gingersnap crust with black seedless grape compote," plated on vintage china, a hand-embroidered napkin folded off to one side. "Amazing!" she beams.

The same could be said of Barrymore's transformation from the fast-and-loose genial wild child who trumpeted her bisexuality and flashed her breasts at David Letterman when he turned 48 (there are worse birthday gifts) into an organic-omelet-whisking, cabbage-rose-gardening, modern-Martha wife and mother. Gone is the "love of love" that for decades magnetized her to dubious dudes (Tom Green, Fabrizio Moretti, Justin Long) and kept her in a sudsy romantic churn. Instead, a cozier, cultivated domesticity has her house-hunting and school-screening in New York City to nest closer to her in-laws, Coco and Arie Kopelman, the former head of Chanel. This is New Barrymore, or, as her sister-in-law and writer Jill Kargman labels her, "Jew Barrymore."

"I try to be a good shiksa wife," explains Barrymore. "I go to Central Synagogue in New York." She also attempted to prepare a Passover Seder when she and her husband were courting. "It was a disaster. I screwed everything up. And I got the date wrong. I ended up taking him to a really awesome Seder at [Working Title president and producer] Liza Chasin's house."

Casual friends for several years, Kopelman and Barrymore reconnected in January 2011. A year after their first date, they were engaged. Six months after that, they were married. "Sometimes whom you least expect is the person you fall for," Kopelman, 36, says. "It was a combination of moments: watching her with my nephew. Traveling with her. Going to museums with her. I knew, adding them up, this was it." He laughs when recalling her reaction to him not seeing key films in her oeuvre. "She was angry and surprised I hadn't seen Grey Gardens or Ever After and immediately sat me down and had me watch them."

Dior DRESS, $3,700; (800) 929-DIOR


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