
Any skincare expert will tell you that anti-aging and retinol are inextricably linked. So why is this potent anti-wrinkle ingredient still so mystifying? Some people say retinol is the best thing that ever happened to them; others complain that it leaves their skin red and dry. Because it's never too early (or too late!) to stave off the signs of aging, we looked to the experts to decode retinol—or is it retinoids?—in the simplest of terms.
What is retinol?
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Retinol, which is another name for Vitamin A, is a powerful ingredient for addressing a number of skin concerns. "It can help to fight acne, stimulate collagen production, and has anti-inflammatory properties," says Dr. Michele J. Farber of Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City.
What's the difference between retinol and retinoids?
It's important to understand that there's a distinct difference between retinol and retinoids. "Retinols and retinoids are both vitamin A derivatives," explains Dr. Farber. "They have both been formulated to be applied to your skin in topical form, but retinoids are stronger than retinols. While over-the-counter retinol creams do have many of the same benefits, they often work more slowly."
When should I start using retinol?
Though it's touted as the gold standard in anti-aging, this powerhouse isn't just for the older crowd. Incorporating retinol into your routine in your twenties can help keep sun damage in check and help prevent lines from developing.
"In your twenties, starting a healthy skincare regimen when you're young will help you to age gracefully and keep your skin in the best shape possible," says Dr. Farber. "Women should start off using retinol creams during their twenties, as this is the time when sun damage starts to become apparent."
How do I begin using retinol?
You want to be wary of not using anything that's too strong. "To avoid acne flares, a light formulation, not a heavy cream is the way to go," says dermatologist Dr. Patricia Wexler.
If redness or irritation occurs, re-evaluate the concentration, frequency, and formulation. And this is important: SPF is always necessary when using a retinol. "Your goal would be using retinol to get smoother, more evenly pigmented skin, with less post inflammatory pigmentation," says Wexler.
What retinol cream should I use?
CeraVe is as gentle as it gets, so if you're a beginner to retinols and trying to dip a toe into the pool, reach for this complexion-cradling option first.
A little dollop of this cream goes along way with this vegan formula. While it includes a potent amount of retinol, a triple peptide blend that works to strengthen and firm the skin is what takes this option up a notch.
This potent fan-favorite cream features a slow-release concentration of retinol as well as a quadruple peptide blend that keeps skin looking firmer over time.
Hyaluronic acid and powerful retinol team up to create this drugstore staple face cream from Neutrogena. Designed to be used on your face and your neck, this works to soften the look of even the deepest-set lines on your face.
This rich Eye Balm melts in the same way that a cleanser would of the same formula to reveal a silky smooth retinol for your under-eyes. It contains Granactive retinoids—basically a less irritating form of retinol—reform texture to make the area look smoother overnight.
Don't let this serum's potency scare you. It's filled with soothing ingredients like Hawaiian honey to keep your complexion comfortable while you remove wrinkles.
Parisian women know good skin, and this French pharmacy staple is one of their secret weapons. It's a simple formula, so apply directly to the skin or mix a little in with your favorite night cream.
Skin repairs itself overnight, and this PM formula takes the process up a notch with a high concentration of retinol and a skin-calming blend of bisabolol, which is derived from the famously soothing chamomile plant.
"Comfortable" usually isn't the first word that comes to mind when you think of retinol—it can be a little abrasive for new users and those with sensitive skin—but this luxurious oil makes the case. The rich oil coats skin in both wrinkle-fighting retinol and hydration.
This stuff is definitely powerful, and it's perfect for those of you looking for a step up from your beginner formulas. But don't let its potency scare you: it uses entrapped retinol, which gradually releases over time for an exfoliation that won't burn.
Crow's feet are natural, but a tiny dose of retinol can help those crinkles look less prominent. The slow-release ingredients in this formula help to avoid irritation in the eye sensitive area.
Yellowing is one age concern that's often left by the wayside, but niacinamides are paired with hi-tech retinol in this formula help even the skin tone in even the most sensitive skin types.
A brighter complexion is one way to instantly appear more youthful, and this cream combines Vitamin C with wild gooseberry to defend against skin-marring free radicals.
Green tea, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid give skin a plumping effect for immediate results, while retinol works over time to reduce wrinkles' appearance.
The brand's signature capsules have a cult following, and this retinol-infused option was created to fade even your deepest lines.
Algae and a proprietary antioxidant complex make sure skin stays supple, while a potent .5 percent retinol exfoliates away uneven skin tone.
Taylore Glynn is the Beauty and Health Editor at Marie Claire, covering skincare, makeup, fragrance, wellness, and more. If you need her, she’s probably roasting a chicken, flying solo at the movies, or drinking a bad Negroni at JFK.
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