Maybe this is crazy love, the love of two madmen." That quote, which Yves Saint Laurent cofounder Pierre Bergé wrote to the eponymous designer, was printed on a card placed on every seat at Saint Laurent’s summer 2018 show. It might have been easy to miss in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower (which loomed over the runway at the Fontaine du Trocadéro) but for its resonance. Bergé had died earlier in the month, and one couldn’t help feeling as though designer Anthony Vaccarello’s collection (his third since taking the helm as creative director in 2016) paid tribute to the original duo’s legacy.
As Paris’ famed landmark began its hourly twinkle, models emerged through a smoke-machine fog. The show’s first half focused on casual-yet-sexy looks—silky blouses, louche jackets, slim suiting—but the drama arrived in act two: eveningwear. Bubble-skirted minidresses (a classic couture shape that Vaccarello modernized with leg-framing cutouts at the hem) textured with sequins, tulle, and feathers made their way down the catwalk. Kaia Gerber, in her Paris Fashion Week debut, rocked one in black.
"You need more than just 'clothes,'" says the designer, who updated house signatures like ostrich feathers and wide lapels in unexpected ways (plumes enveloped knee-high boots, while jacket collars were spangled). “Today, you can buy clothes everywhere, anytime. Everything is just a click away.”
Seeking a fresh start (and, no doubt, a departure from the grungy, L.A.-music-scene vibe of his predecessor, Hedi Slimane), the 37-year-old Brussels native—who launched a namesake label in 2009 and spent a year as creative director of Versus Versace before taking the reins at Saint Laurent—controversially wiped the label’s Instagram account clean when he arrived.
“Creating a dream, an attraction, a strong vision, something that gives a unique feeling to what you buy, is more important than ever,” he says. His way of doing it? Edgy campaign videos (featuring free-spirited road trips, dance-filled nights, and same-sex romances, and starring new muses like Charlotte Gainsbourg and Travis Scott), provocative art collaborations, and nocturnal runway presentations—a reminder that Saint Laurent is synonymous with that perennially sought-after Parisian je ne sais quoi.
“Our woman is full of a subtle tension,” says Vaccarello. “She is a dark angel with a sensual allure, draped in black-sequined dresses that shine like asphalt after the rain.” We’re in crazy love.
Want more Marie Claire? Get Instant Access!
Stay In The Know
Marie Claire email subscribers get intel on fashion and beauty trends, hot-off-the-press celebrity news, and more. Sign up here.
-
Marie Claire's Power Play
By Marie Claire Editors Published
-
When Are the Next Episodes of 'Physical: 100' Season 2 Releasing?
The finale (and a new winner) is near.
By Quinci LeGardye Published
-
Beyoncé Spends 'Cowboy Carter' Eve Without a Cowboy Hat
She cozied up with a luxurious faux fur coat instead.
By Lauren Tappan Published
-
This Former Céline Consultant Has Almost Perfected the Cashmere Sweater
Charlotte Björklund is on a mission to warm the world, one knit at a time.
By Emma Childs Published
-
Meet the Fashion Designer Making Mistakes on Purpose
Jack Miner of Interior takes us inside his intentionally messy, chaotic world.
By Emma Childs Published
-
The 23 Best Puffer Jackets for Women to Stay Warm In
The cold never bothered me anyway.
By Emma Childs Published
-
The 28 Most Iconic Fashion Films, According to Marie Claire Editors
When your closet and your movie queue need a refresh.
By Katie Attardo Published
-
The 12 Best, Editor-Approved Turtlenecks for Masterful Layering
They're fashion insiders' secret weapon.
By Emma Childs Last updated
-
The 12 Best Cashmere Sweaters of 2023
Cashmere is the G.O.A.T. (get it?) of attainable luxury.
By Emma Childs Published
-
The 22 Best Swimsuit Brands of 2024
Trust us.
By Gabrielle Ulubay Last updated
-
18 Cute Spring Outfits That Spark Joy
Bold hues, volume, and bright prints are guaranteed to boost your mood.
By Julia Marzovilla Published