I Proudly Incorporate Traditional Chinese Pieces and Motifs Into My Modern Wardrobe—Here's How

This isn't a "trend." It's my identity.

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Vivian Li
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Spend any time online, and you'll notice it: Traditional Chinese clothing has made it into the sartorial mainstream. As a Chinese fashion creator and writer, this has been really disorienting. In the past couple of months, frog closures (a.k.a. pankou) and Tang jackets (with their signature stand collars) have trickled into the wardrobes of Western style arbiters. Adidas even released a Tang-style track jacket just in time for Chinese New Year, which went viral both in China and the West. (It's now sold out.)

Adidas clot track jacket

(Image credit: Adidas)

It's led me to reflect on my own relationship with what traditional Chinese clothing means to me. Having spent the majority of my life in the West, I definitely find myself between my two cultures, both in the way I dress and the way I live. I've been wearing dresses and jackets with these silky button closures and stiff collars my entire life. Every Lunar New Year, or spring festival, I pull out my trusty qipao.

Vivian Li eating lunch in NYC wearing a traditional black Tang jacket and a white skirt

(Image credit: Vivian Li)

I've found that I love the way incorporating a traditional Chinese garment into my daily wardrobe can bring personality into a uniform while paying cultural homage. My favorite way to integrate these pieces is by way of a Tang jacket. One of my failsafe outfit combos is a structured, buttoned jacket, juxtaposed by a loose-fitting pair of denim, and a dainty ballerina. The whole look is an oxymoron—business up top, casual at the bottom, and precious on the feet. A Tang jacket, with frog closures that come either simple or embellished, fits into that formula perfectly. The silhouette was popularized in the 19th century as utilitarian workwear, but modern interpretations of it have been much more decorative.

Vivian Li wearing frog closures as part of her outfit

(Image credit: Vivian Li)

Vivian Li wearing frog closures as part of her outfit

(Image credit: Vivian Li)

Vivian Li wearing a traditional black Tang jacket

(Image credit: Vivian Li)

I also love when the buttons are integrated into a more minimal dress, like this Jean Paul Gaultier one I bought vintage recently.

Vivian Li wearing a black dress and green jacket

(Image credit: Vivian Li)

It’s not necessarily a Chinese piece (as made obvious by its French atelier origins), but when paired with my jade bangle and jade necklace my mom custom-designed for me, it works to bring together all these motifs into a more cohesive look. This dress in particular is interesting because it is a clear example of Chinoiserie, a movement that both celebrated but also commodified East Asian artistic motifs.

Vivian Li wearing a purple dress with white flowers on it

(Image credit: Vivian Li)

For more formal occasions, I like committing to a full qipao while keeping the rest of my look extremely pared-back to let the dress talk. I have always found these garments to be so beautiful, and it’s a great way to challenge our typical thinking of what black tie means. The piece itself is conservative in its high neckline and maxi length but also very expressive, with options of embroidery, metallic threads, and rich, bold colors. My favorite is this royal blue one I’ve worn to multiple Fashion Week events.

Vivian Li in a royal blue qipao dress

(Image credit: Vivian Li)

For me, it’s important to exercise restraint when it comes to accessories, because I want to preserve the integrity of the qipao and wear it in a modern context while still respecting the importance and symbolism it carries.

Proudly representing Chinese clothing and history is incredibly important for me to be tethered to who I am. For anyone intrigued by this style, I highly encourage you to explore the centuries-old story behind the fashion and its complicated past of Western appropriation—and, of course, try to support talented Chinese designers in the meantime. I truly believe in respectful cultural exchange, but remember this is more than a "trend" for many people—it’s their identity.

Vivian Li
Vivian Li
Contributing Editor

Vivian Li is a New York-based content creator and PhD candidate. With an affinity for vintage designer pieces, Li boasts over 50,000 followers on her Instagram.