Prada’s Spring 2027 Collection Was a Love Letter to the Skirt

Stripping down is nothing new for fashion, literally in abbreviated clothes and pared-back aesthetics, and figuratively in its endless promises to return to the essentials. Still, restraint is rare in an industry where designers are expected to top their last collection, and brands are expected to top last year’s sales, preferably with another It bag. At Prada’s Spring 2027 show, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons distilled the bottom half of the wardrobe down to one thing: skirts.

The collection felt like a hall of fame for a garment Prada has spent decades perfecting. Miuccia, who has long made it part of her own daily uniform, took her bow in a pale pink metallic version with visible seams. On the runway, prim knee-length A-lines split open to flash floral fabric. Shiny wrap styles, embellished columns, familiar pleats, and full shapes floated around the body, alongside others that stood stiffly away from it. Some were sliced nearly to the hip. Others barely cleared it.

They were paired with leather biker jackets, cropped knits, checked tailoring, and bras worn as tops. Nearly every look came with a heel, moving from closed-toe pumps to open sandals, and a long-handled bag that dropped toward the knee. The femininity was obvious, but never delicate.

For much of modern fashion history, women who wanted to project authority dressed a little more like men. Trousers first represented freedom, then became part of a corporate uniform meant to establish parity with male colleagues. Women could still be challenged for wearing them on the Senate floor until 1993. The skirt remained the more explicitly feminine choice and, often, the one taken less seriously.

Designers, often men in charge of women’s brands, have spent decades deciding what the female power uniform should be. In the ’80s, authority came with exaggerated shoulders and skirt suits cut like armor. By the ’90s and early aughts, the pantsuit had become shorthand for a woman who meant business. Even when a skirt was involved, its authority usually came from menswear: the jacket, the shoulder, the pinstripe.

No single skirt was the power skirt here. Nearly every version could assume the role. This is familiar territory for Miuccia Prada, whose work has always found tension in the things women are told to consider pretty, proper, ugly, or inappropriate. Knee-length silhouettes helped define the early Prada wardrobe, while pleats have become something close to a house dialect. Spring 2027 gathered those ideas together, treating the category less like a trend than a paper-doll wardrobe whose pieces could be endlessly rearranged.

One of the great things about a skirt is the range it can offer across different bodies. Where a clingy trouser or cropped capri can leave some women feeling self-conscious, volume creates a little room between the body and the clothes. It can skim, stand away, or move with its wearer. It would have been nice to see that versatility demonstrated across a wider range of bodies on the runway. If the collection was an argument for the many kinds of femininity one garment can contain, the casting didn't make the case as broadly as it could have. Still, the shapes themselves made it easy to imagine a much wider life for them beyond the runway.

If Prada is the fashion bellwether it so often proves to be, the message for Spring 2027 is simple: Wear your skirt like a trouser. Wear it often and without ceremony, as the foundation of an outfit rather than its finishing touch. Miuccia Prada once put it even more plainly: “For me, the skirt is like a T-shirt. I put all my ideas there.” This show was that philosophy writ large. Pleats, columns, minis, and full A-lines weren't treated as precious or reserved for special occasions. They were presented as reliable, repeatable, and ready for whatever sweater, shirt, or jacket you have in your closet. You don’t need a new wardrobe. You might just need a new skirt.