RENDEZVOUS HERE HOTEL AMOUR Your new French lover may suggest sharing a vodka in the garden of Hotel Amour - formerly a house of ill repute - as it's one of the few places left in Paris where he can still smoke.
STARCK CONTRAST Philippe Starck has reimagined the 19th-century Le Meurice with surrealist dolphin chairs and mirrors of ice you can draw on. COUTURE TO COWBOYS After a splurge at Galliano or Lanvin, look for steals (like authentic French navy peacoats) at Au Petit Matelot and genuine Western boots at El Paso Booty. A LA MODE SHOP LE MONDE Colette boutique's sole criterion for its handpicked merch: über-coolness - from world-music CDs and green patent Doc Martens to Fendi's hot-pink tape measure. PRETTY CITY GET LE LOOK Vive la difference. Experience French beauty couture-style at Maison Guerlain, with state-of-the-art makeup and customized fragrances. Or go the chemist route at Pharmacie Fouhety to stock up on affordable breakthrough brands. Models covet their Embryolisse moisturizer. THE OTHER ANGELINA Cafe Angelina may be where Proust nibbled his famous madeleine cookies, but today everyone goes for the hot chocolate "L'Africain." Load up on whipped cream, cherie - it's unsweetened! HAIR DU TEMPS The celeb stylist behind Catherine Deneuve's blonde locks has just opened his first eponymous salon: Autour de Christophe Robin (above). (His parents obviously read him Winnie the Pooh.) Go for superb color, cut, and calorie-rich croque-monsieur while you wait. By appointment only.
BEAUTÉ BIO-CHIC L'Appartement 217, Paris's premier organic spa, feels like someone's private residence - i.e., it's another beauty secret French women prefer to keep!