Color came down the New York Fashion Week spring 2020 runways in full-force. Think: bold, painterly, artistic renditions featuring every color of the rainbow. And I'm not just talking about the clothes. Makeup is fun, and this season authentically reflected that, thanks to work by lead makeup artists like Pat McGrath, Tom Pecheux, Kabuki, and Sir John, who all created stunning looks backstage. Graphic eyes, high-shine gloss, and lots and lots of sparkle was involved. If no makeup-makeup is more your vibe, this 2020 trend forecast will inspire you to step out of your comfort zone and try color. Come on, girl, you can do it!
The mood: '70s rock & roll glam
The execution: Lead makeup artist Daniel Sallstrom brought the rock & roll glam of the 1970s to life with the help of primary colors. The focus was on the eyes, which were elongated and blended out towards the hairline. The rest of the skin was fresh and natural.
The standout product: UOMA Beauty Black Magic Palette in Savage, $44
The mood: a walk through the MET
The execution: Lead artist Erin Parsons created a makeup masterpiece using the warmth of her fingertips and brushes to create a "painterly" and "organic" lid. It was an artistic undertaking achieved by techniques like smudging and blending. "The idea is to channel your inner artist,” Parsons said in a press release.
The standout product: Maybelline Eyeshadow Palette in Lemonade Craze, $10
The mood: free-spirited modern girl
The execution: The legendary Pat McGrath started by using a flat brush to blend her Full Panic lipstick across the eyelids to create a bright fuchsia background. (Yes, you can wear lipstick on your eyes.) This was followed by a bright pink shade from her eyeshadow palette. As for those graphic wings, she used a small liner brush to create precise shapes.
The standout product: Pat McGrath Labs MatteTrance Lipstick in Full Panic , $40
The mood: Lots of lines and color
The execution: Lead makeup artist Fatima Thomas used intense washes of color to draw focus on the eyes. (Are you noticing a pattern? Bold eyes were everywhere this season.) Using a chrome yellow and cobalt blue eyeshadow from MAC, each model had a defined eye. Thomas kept the lips soft and neutral using a touch of lip liner and clear lipgloss.
The standout product: MAC Chromagraphic Pencil in Marine Ultra, $30
The mood: Daytime Disco
The execution: Celebrity makeup artist Sir John revived what we love about '70s glam then added a modern twist using Lancôme X Zendaya products. Models wore a matte brown lip with a gold “halo eye that flatters everyone,” Sir John said in a press release. I want this entire look on my face right now.
The standout product: The antique gold shade in Lancôme Hypnôse Palette in Bois Corail, $50
The mood: Artisanal and whimsical
The execution: To create a feline silhouette around the eye area, Sir John used UOMA Beauty Black Magic Palette in Poise over an eye kohl to create this dreamy, dramatic, midnight blue look. Skin was equally as important—and achievable—thanks to the impressibly inclusive foundation shade range from Uoma Beauty.
The standout product: Uoma Beauty Say What?! Foundation, $39
The mood: an inimitable New York woman
The execution: Keeping the skin soft and slightly sculpted with blush and illuminator, the eyes stole the show again at Tom Ford. Glam was led by makeup artist Diane Kendal, and each model donned a sultry smokey eye unique to their skin tone using two different shade waves of Eye Color Quad. In order to not take too much attention away from the eyes, a pinky nude lip completed the look.
The standout product: Tom Ford Eye Color Quad in Virgin Orchid and Pretty Baby, $88
The mood: unique
The execution: Pat McGrath created 61 different makeup looks special to each model."Not one girl or boy or person will look the same," McGrath explained in a press release. "Every single one had to be different. It’s really about the characters, everyone being different and having fun.” The lesson: you do you. Whether you want bedazzlement, a blinding glow, or a smokey eye, own it.
The standout product: Marc Jacobs Beauty Accomplice Concealer & Touch-Up Stick, $32
The mood: juicy wet skin
The execution: Makeup artist Gucci Westman wanted the skin to shine through at Khaite. Similar to the radiant glow you have when you've just stepped out the shower, each models' skin looked squeaky-clean, stripped-back, and fresh. Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlighter was applied all-over for a luminous finish. That was paired with Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks in Petal for a natural flush.
The standout product: Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlighter, $48
The mood: fresh, plus something bold
The execution: Lead makeup artist Susie Sobol used Code8 products to create graphic eyes and glowy skin. Models wore an inky black angled cat eye, smokey brown shadow, or a neon pink liner paired with radiant skin.
The standout product: Code8 Contour Eye Pencil, $25
The mood: '80s Donna Jones
The execution: If you live for a bold red lip (*raises hand*), Sies Marjan overdelivered this season. Lead makeup artist Nami Yoshida prepped the skin with moisturizer to ensure a nice glow, and used three different reds to create this high-shine, cherry red gloss. It's safe to say this is a standalone lip that doesn't need anything else.
The standout product: MAC Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolor in Fashion Legacy, $22
The mood: The Misfits rival to Jem and The Holograms
The execution: Makeup artist Kabuki took a fashion-forward approach to color. Think: 2020 bad-girl rock band. He used washes of vivid, bright colors accompanied by winged liner. Holographic cheeks were achieved with MAC's Hyper Real Glow Palette in Get Lit.
The standout product: MAC's Hyper Real Glow Palette in Get Lit, $40
The mood: owning your individuality
The execution: Makeup artist Tom Pecheux created a story around the eyes using bright, in-your-face colors customized to each model. The feline flick and voluminously curled lashes really sealed the deal. The eyeshadow color combinations were paired with a translucent lip sheen and healthy complexion.
The standout product: MAC Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash Mascara, $24
The mood: contemporary glamour
The execution: Key makeup artist Gato wanted this look to be a modern nod to the '70s. He used Maybelline's TattooStudio Gel Pencil in Deep Onyx to line the lower and upper lashes. But really created a lewk by drawing a graphic line with the TattooStudio Gel Pencil in Rich Amethyst. I love that the lips weren't toned down just because of the bold eye. Each model wore Maybelline's Color Sensational Vivid Lacquer in So Hot.
The standout product: Maybelline TattooStudio Gel Pencil in Rich Amethyst, $5
The mood: punk
The execution: Lorac artistry advisor Kelsey Deenihan wanted to pay homage to Libertine’s signature punk aesthetic. She created an exaggerated winged eye with super-sharp lines topped with loads of shimmer. Each models' eyes were adorned with appliques made by Nicky Andrea. Fun fact: absolutely no foundation was used.
The standout product: Lorac Front of the Line Eye Pencil in Black, $20
For more stories like this, including celebrity news, beauty and fashion advice, savvy political commentary, and fascinating features, sign up for the Marie Claire newsletter.