Exclusive: Milliners Share the Secrets Behind Royal Ascot's Famous Hats

Royal Ascot is here once again, and nothing says race day like a fabulous hat. Each year, members of the Royal Family gather for the most anticipated week of British racing, and fans eagerly await to see what Princess Kate, Queen Camilla, Duchess Sophie and other royals will wear. And while their gorgeous dresses always make a statement, it’s the hats that truly stand out.

Whether it’s a straw boater, a whimsical fascinator or a sleek pillbox, milliners tell Marie Claire that even though Royal Ascot has a strict dress code, there’s room for contemporary style—even for the royals.

Duchess Sophie's go-to milliner, Jane Taylor, says that for members of the Royal Family, hats take on a different meaning at Ascot. “Unlike state visits or weddings, where millinery is designed to show respect and ensure the face is entirely visible, the Royal Meeting is more theatrical,” she says. “It is the one event where the hat isn't just an accessory—it is the central piece in the outfit.”

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“Few events in the world place such importance on hats and headpieces, creating an incredible opportunity for creativity and craftsmanship,” adds Merve Bayindir, who runs her eponymous luxury hat brand.

Combining the rules of the royal enclosure with modern style is a challenge that milliners welcome. “Restrictions can lead to the best creativity,” Taylor says. “The balance lies in marrying heritage craftsmanship with a modern silhouette.”

Lalage Beaumont, who creates hats along with luxury handbags and occasionwear, adds that while the royal enclosure does have guidelines on headpieces, “it is all about fun for Ascot—as long as the base of the hat is four inches or more.”

For custom-made hats, some clients start placing orders as early as February, says Sarah Haynes of Somerset Millinery. Haynes, who has designed for Zara Tindall, explains that the design process for members of the Royal Family starts “months ahead.”

“Everything is really organized because outfits are set months in advance, so hats have to be dyed to match or fabric samples might be sent out to match,” she explains.

In terms of the trends we might expect to see on the royals and other racegoers this year, Taylor says blue is going to be one of the major color trends, along with “reimagined” pillbox hats and “a clear shift toward bold, floating compositions of feathers and sculptural organza orchids.”

Beaumont points to boater hats “becoming more popular, but with a wider brim and a very shallow crown,” with Haynes agreeing that boaters were popular with her clients last year, “and they seem to be very in again this year.” Bayindir says that sustainability is also becoming key, with the milliner noting, “There is also a growing interest in versatility; clients are increasingly looking for designs they can wear beyond a single occasion.”

Members of the Royal Family have long been supporters of the British millinery industry, and Haynes says that, in turn, helps trickle down to members of the public. “I think hat wearing in the last few years has become a lot more popular than it was,” she says. “Now we like dressing up again. Ascot, whatever class you're from, whatever your budget is, absolutely everybody at Ascot makes an effort. A hat is part of that.”

At the end of the day, Royal Ascot provides a unique opportunity to put British craftsmanship on display. “I think milliners play a hugely important [role] in the image all the ladies of the Royal Family portray,” Beaumont tells Marie Claire. “When one thinks of our wonderful late Queen, you always think of her in a hat, and generally a very colorful one. The variety of amazing hats that are worn at every royal event carry on this tradition, all of them made by British millinery ateliers continuing this fabulous craft.”