According to Google Trends, the rugby shirt hasn’t been this popular since 2007. I’m not all that surprised, as I’ve been tracking its slow and steady return since spring 2024. I haven’t been particularly quiet about it, either. I’ve made TikToks about their comeback, written endlessly about them on my Substack, trademarked, and wear mine constantly.
As a lifetime truther, I have deep opinions on what makes a good rugby great. To me, the best ones are either thrifted, found on eBay, or borrowed from a man in your life (grandfather, boyfriend, husband, brother, dad…take ‘em all). Also, I’m of the camp that rugbys should have a white collar, heavyweight cotton fabric (although I love the sweater varieties in winter), and, ideally, elbow patches.
Rugby shirts belong in the same category as perfectly worn denim or a great baseball cap: the good ones are built to last, and they get better with age. If you can’t close your eyes and envision yourself wearing the same one in 20 years, you’re doing it wrong.
You’ll usually find me wearing my dad’s 30-year-old rugby with wide-leg jeans and loafers for dinners, panels, or even a first date. Other times it’s my airport uniform: an aged baseball cap, Dries sneakers, my rugby, and leggings with longer socks. Most notably, it was my “lucky” shirt during Kamala Harris’s campaign last fall, meaning I wore it to phonebank almost every week.
While I’ve never needed external validation for my rugby devotion, last spring I did start noticing them being worn more frequently by my favorite trend bellwether: the Elusive (International) Hot Girls, coined by me on trademarked. These are women who move through cities and countries with ease, and whose wardrobes reflect a life that’s deeply personal yet hard to replicate. I’ve spotted them wearing rugbys in the Hamptons with poplin boxer shorts and metallic sneakers; in Marylebone this spring with wide-leg (khaki!) pants; and over fall and winter, chic vintage rugbys were layered over post-Pilates leggings, as seen around pockets of NYC on a Tuesday morning.
Finally, we have the data to confirm my observations, and it feels glorious. Which is also what my monthly column, status symbols, exists to track: the convergence of data, personal allegiance, and observational momentum. With that, here’s a quick edit of the best rugbys (vintage and new) below.
If you love the idea of wearing a rugby, but you’re afraid of the stripes (don’t be, they go with everything!), this one is the perfect place to start.
A darling and modern twist on the rugby. Embroidered everything is a rising moment for fall!
The fashion girl’s dream! This is the rugby I saw styled with poplin shorts out east. Buy a size up for a more boyish fit, or true-to-size if you want something more structured and preppy.
Speaking of K.ngsley, I also looove the long version. I saw this one more in the city this spring, with a pair of vintage Levis and Havaianas flip-flops.
Of course I have to mention Rowing Blazers! The modern icon.
Tartan is another print that is back for fall. I couldn’t imagine a better combo than wearing it in vintage rugby form!
To me, rugbys are unisex. This men’s one from Loewe is…perfect. The weight of the cotton, the saturation of color, the gym teacher of it all—it’s just special!
Three words: Vintage + Elbow Patches. Ralph Lauren is such a classic, there's simply no better note to end on!
