Fragrance Layering Is Cool and All—But an Olfactory Personality Is So Much Chicer
With this scent trail, the compliments never stop coming.
A white tee is at face value, just a white tee. Layer it under a cozy cashmere? It becomes an accessory. Belts, while technically functional, have adopted a decorative agenda, popping up on totes, shoe buckles, and anywhere except waists; look to Miu Miu and Ganni’s form-over-function approach for proof. Creating an outfit requires the finesse of styling—so why has it taken so long to adopt the same logic to perfumery?
Designing an olfactory personality, a term coined by Guerlain perfumer Delphine Jelk, is a long-overdue perfume application technique that’s just gaining momentum in insider circles. Think of it like the more sophisticated, chicer, elegant older sister to fragrance layering. It’s an evolution of the perfume cocktailing experience, treating scent like a complete outfit instead of one, singular statement piece. The principle: spritz multiple perfumes on different areas of the body (and your clothing). “This personalized scent trail is created by combining fragrance, applying one to pulse points, another to your hair, and an all-over scent—perhaps something behind the knees as well,” explains Jelk. This creates an aura around you that is your own bespoke signature.
How many scents does it take to create your fragrance aura?
Strategic placement—like, say, a sexy, date-night scent on the back of your neck and warm and cozy gourmand on your spring trench coat—allows different traits to unfold throughout the day. “Spraying different fragrances on various body areas creates distinctive scent zones,” says fragrance expert Kudzi Chikumbu, also known as Sir Candle Man on Instagram. It allows you to experience a complete fragrance journey without rules and restrictions. Fruits can be layered with florals (a duo that typically end in dissonance), musks can live amongst aquatics, and marshmallow perfumes can mesh shockingly well with green-forward fragrances.
In a world where fragrance is expanding rapidly (the global perfume industry is projected to be worth nearly 58 billion this year), I’ll take any excuse to get quality use out of my collection. Who says I can’t wear eight perfumes a day? To help kickstart some olfactory personality scent-searching, Jelk and Chikumbu are breaking down their top tips for cocktailing a truly personalized sensory experience ahead.
Start in the Shower
“I'm a firm believer in a deep layering experience starting from the shower,” says Chikumbu. This first pick, which will likely come by way of a fragranced body wash, is perhaps the most important. While it’s not necessary for your entire olfactory personality to stay in the same fragrance family, you might want to find an element or note that ties everything together, like fig, rose, or vanilla. “That said, feeling free and trusting your intuition is essential, just as you would when putting together an outfit.”
Think About an Oil
Don’t underestimate a fragrance oil. More concentrated and with less throw than an eau de parfum, an oil is a piece of the puzzle exclusively for you. Apply to the warmth of your inner wrists or pulse points (it depends on how many fragrances you plan to incorporate). Smell yourself (closely) for a grounding deep breath or burst of energy during the day.
Hair Perfume Has Its Moment
While certain shampoos and conditioners are deliciously scented in their own rights, I’ve found that hair perfume is an olfactory game-changer. While you can use a regular fragrance, hair fragrances are specifically formulated with a lower alcohol content. The reason: they won’t dry out or damage your hair. Plus, you can snag some of your favorite scents at a fraction of the price.
Close to the Chest
“Beyond the standard pulse points, I particularly love the chest area,” says Chikumbu. “It's warm, so it helps the fragrance develop.” This is essentially your main event of the outfit, radiating outward to anyone that passes by you. Look for a fragrance with a lot of sillage and lasting power.
A Little Something Extra
Consider throwing a statement fragrance into the mix, whether it’s the small of your back (this will leave a lingering trail), the behinds of your knees, or the back of your neck. I recommend a bold, spicy scent or an edible gourmand for these special spots. “This is your finishing accessory note,” says Chikumbu.
Meet the Experts
Delphine Jelk was born in 1977 in Fribourg, Switzerland. Passionate about science and art from an early age, she dreamed of becoming an alchemist. After her baccalauréat, she turned to fashion design and enrolled at the École Supérieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode (ESMOD) in Paris. During her final year project, she combined fashion and perfumery by creating a multi-sensory collection in which each outfit was accompanied by a perfume, thus beginning her transition to the olfactory world.She started at Firmenich, a giant in the perfume industry, where she learned about raw materials and fragrance combinations. She honed her skills at the Institut de Parfumerie de Grasse (GIP), surrounded by master perfumers. Her mentor, Philippe Romano, steered her towards a collaboration with Guerlain.In 2008, she officially joined Guerlain and signed her first major success, La Petite Robe Noire, which has become a worldwide icon. Alongside Thierry Wasser, she has contributed to a number of creations, notably in the haute parfumerie collection L'Art et La Matière, where she combines tradition and modernity.
Lifestyle and home fragrance influencer Kudzi Chikumbu (@sircandleman on Instagram) has amassed an enthusiastic fan following for his witty candle education.
