I'm Declaring It an Opera House Fall—Here's How I'm Styling It

With a close family friend as my inspiration, I'm embracing textures and silhouettes that make getting dressed feel special again.

Alexis Badiyi wearing a wrap coat and black bags while in her apartment
(Image credit: Alexis Badiyi)

Rudolf Nureyev captivated audiences around the world: as one of the greatest ballet dancers of all time; as a fixture of Studio 54; and as a beloved artistic director of the Paris Opera Ballet. His style and natural charisma filled every room—larger than life in the truest sense. In my own family, his influence has woven through generations, impacting not just how we see art and movement, but how we dress, live, and create.

Nureyev was one of my grandmother’s closest friends; he walked my mother down the aisle; and he has long been a personal source of inspiration. My firsthand memories of him are faint but warm. His presence lived on in our home through stories of glamorous nights that always seemed spontaneously celebratory. When Nureyev was in town, there was a reason to dress up in a touch of silk and velvet and go out, no matter what time it was.

Alexis Badiyi's family with the ballet dancer Nureyev

Left to right: Nureyev with my Grandmother at her home; out with my father; holding me at his apartment at The Dakota; walking my mom down the aisle.

(Image credit: Courtesy Alexis Badiyi)

All these years later, his legacy lives on in the fall 2025 fashion landscape. This season, I’m observing an undeniable return to the late ’70s and early ’80s—through a renewed focus on Nureyev’s style legacy woven into the runways. From Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche Russe codes to Dior Homme’s opulent layering and the wider resurgence of evening drama—embodied by embellished evening jackets and opera coats that sweep the floor—the mood feels decadent, textural, and slightly theatrical again.

This fall's collections grant permission for a little operatic escapism. It's a call to wrap ourselves in velvet, embroidery, tassels, and playfully leap into the season ahead. I'm calling it "Opera House fall." Below, I'm sharing my five favorite looks that could belong on or off the stage.

Dress Rehearsal Evening Jackets

a collage of Nureyev with a Dries Van Noten model and an Altuzarra jacket

From left: Dries Van Noten Spring 2026 jacket; Nureyev and Lee Radziwill at the Metropolitan Opera House Royal Ballet; Tom Ford Spring 2026 Re-See.

(Image credit: Launchmetrics; Getty Images; Alexis Badiyi)

Some of my favorite looks of Nureyev’s are built around a single, extraordinary piece of clothing—like a statement evening jacket. They're on the rise again, and not in the overly formal way, too. They’re a dressed-down decadence, shifting an ordinary dinner into a moment.

I recently sourced a velvet Yves Saint Laurent bolero from the 1976 Operas—Ballets Russes Collection with Nureyev in mind, and styled it with a YSL sash worn as a cummerbund, vintage slippers, and the Aflalo silk pants I've been living in. Below are a few more of my current favorites for fall that carry that same feeling: opulent, textural, and always a little theatrical.

Alexis Badiyi wearing a cropped jacket in her apartment

Wearing my Saint Laurent jacket.

(Image credit: Alexis Badiyi)

Bold Vintage Prints

models on the Valentino and Dior runways next to Nureyev

From left: Valentino Spring 2026 details; Nureyev street style; Dior Spring 2026 details.

(Image credit: Launchmetrics; Getty Images)

Another iconic Nureyev signature? His ability to wear prints in a way that felt both timeless and completely his own. Even the boldest patterns never seemed to overwhelm him.

As someone who leans minimalist and rarely gravitates toward prints, I often look to him as a compass for how to approach them. The richness of the colors, the sumptuous fabrics, and the layered textures are undeniably opulent, but always anchored in elegance. Even when I styled the vintage velvet cape pictured—found just outside of Venice—with a billowing vintage Bill Blass blouse that instantly made me think of him and my grandmother, it felt like a way of channeling them both.

Alexis Badiyi wearing a coat with floral print

Styling a vintage velvet cape.

(Image credit: Alexis Badiyi)

Ensemble Cast Tonal Grays

altuzarra and Giorgio Armani models alongside Nureyev

Altuzarra Spring 2026; Nureyev at our summer house in full tonal gray velvet; Giorgio Armani Spring 2026

(Image credit: Launchmetrics; Alexis Badiyi)

Every time I visit Paris, I find my way over to where Nureyev's apartment once was. The neighborhood has a way of feeling like I'm visiting the spirit of him and my grandmother. (Naturally, a few of my favorite shops and restaurants happen to all surround his old home as well.) This trip, I picked up a special Fortuny scarf to add to my collection—which also references another Nureyev-inspired favorite. The tonal grays he wore are the ultimate ensemble cast: every knit, trouser, and coat playing a supporting role, together creating a final look.

As a tonal dresser myself, I’ve been especially drawn to the monochromatic looks across the runways this season. There’s something quietly cinematic about a single shade worn head-to-toe. It’s inspired me to restyle my own closet with fresh eyes, letting familiar pieces discover new partners in the same hue. Recently, I restyled my Issey Miyake Madam T under the said Fortuny gray. The two layered together created the perfect soft texture to contrast the well tailored Ruadh gray trousers.

Alexis Badiyi wears a gray shawl over wide leg pants

Wearing one of my tonal gray outfits.

(Image credit: Alexis Badiyi)

The Return of the Cummerbund

models at celine, tom ford, and chloe

From left: Celine Spring 2026, Tom Ford Spring 2026 Re-See, Chloé Spring 2026.

(Image credit: Launchmetrics; Alexis Badiyi)

It has been a waist-focused season. Whether double-layered, belted, or wrapped in a sash, so many looks are drawing the eye to the midline again. I’ve noticed in my own styling how a single waist detail can suddenly complete a look, giving it polish and presence.

When styling my YSL velvet bolero again, I used my Fortuny scarf as a waist sash to create a cummerbund shape. What feels new about this iteration of the cummerbund is how it’s being styled outside of its traditional tuxedo context. It’s no longer reserved for black-tie formality; instead, it’s appearing in more playful, unexpectedly casual ways.

Alexis Badiyi wearing a cropped jacket and pants

I tied my Fortuny scarf as a cummerbund with my Saint Laurent jacket.

(Image credit: Alexis Badiyi)

The Opera Coat

models at Valentino and Kallmeyer alongside Nureyev

From left: Kallmeyer Spring 2026; Nureyev and Yves Saint Laurent at a party in Paris; Valentino Spring 2026.

(Image credit: Launchmetrics; Getty Images)

A dress, a vest, a coat, a cape: The silhouette is fluid but the statement never changes. Often cut in velvet or silk, the opera coat is a striking piece of clothing that engulfs you. It is one of my favorite fall silhouettes to slip into. When I wear one over tights and a dress, it becomes an ensemble that’s both comfortable and indulgently easy. Like slipping out in a nightgown—only infinitely more elegant.

Alexis Badiyi wearing a long opera coat with red tights

Styling a vintage Ralph Lauren opera vest.

(Image credit: Alexis Badiyi)
Alexis Badiyi
Stylist and Creative Consultant

Alexis Badiyi is a stylist and creative consultant based in New York. She authors the popular Substack Repertoire and has worked with brands including Birkenstock, Missoni, Ralph Lauren, rag & bone, and more.