Growth Factors vs. Peptides: Which Is Better for Firmer Skin?
Estheticians, cosmetic chemists, and dermatologists sound off on the buzzy ingredients.
If you made it here, I can assume a few things are true. Number one: you’re in the market for some skin-firming and/or tightening product to add to your beauty routine. Number two: you’ve also realized that there are about 1,000 different serums, moisturizers, and toners that all seem to claim the same ability to snatch your skin. But treating skin laxity—which can increase with age, menopause, or weight loss—involves a bit of nuance. Broad-spectrum SPF, retinol, and vitamin C are foundational to help protect and renew your skin, but there’s a crop of buzzy ingredients that can really take firming to the next level. “We’re moving beyond simply treating the visible signs of aging and starting to look at how skin functions and communicates at the cellular level,” says esthetician Angela Caglia. “That’s where regenerative skincare becomes so exciting.”
Peptides, growth factors, and exosomes have been dominating the regenerative skincare discourse this past year, and for good reason. They’ve all been shown to support renewal and collagen. And yet, it’s important not to group them altogether. “They are all quite different technologies,” says cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline.
There’s no right or wrong way to add these ingredients to your skincare routine—they’re all powerhouses in their own right. But understanding how they work, what they’re best at (Firming! Plumping! Collagen Boosting!) and the differences in the research and data behind them might influence your choice. To get the full breakdown on what ingredients to look for if you’re chasing firmer skin, keep reading. Krupa, Caglia, along with board-certified dermatologist Elizabeth Houshmand, MD, share their unfiltered thoughts on which ingredients are best for firmer skin, ahead.
What Are Peptides?
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids, and there are many different types used in skincare,” says Koestline. “[They] are targeting signaling molecules, and their activity depends on the specific peptide being used." She notes that it's important not to talk about peptides as though they are one ingredient because their function varies so widely. There are three primary types: signal peptides (for collagen production), carrier peptides (for repair and regeneration), and neurotransmitter-modulating peptides (to minimize fine lines and wrinkles). I’ve done a very thorough breakdown right here, if you really want to get into it.
The benefits of peptides really range from boosting hydration and skin barrier strength to reducing the appearance of wrinkles and firming skin. The latter benefit is most heavily associated with neurotransmitter-modulating peptides, including oligopeptides, soy-derived peptides, and decarboxylated carnosine HCl.
What Are Growth Factors?
Growth factors are naturally occuring in the body, but like collagen, decrease with age. That reduction can cause more signs of skin aging, like fine lines, wrinkles, or poor skin texture. Most of the research focuses on wound healing, demonstrating that it has real benefits for collagen production. “Growth factors are signaling proteins involved in cellular communication, repair, and regeneration. In skincare, they're used to support skin renewal and improve visible signs of aging,” explains Dr. Houshmand. Think of them like a carrier pigeon. Once the growth factor makes its way into the skin, it finds the specific receptor and delivers a message: produce more collagen.
While they have huge potential, growth factors are not the easiest ingredients to develop, which often increases the price point. “The formulation challenge is that EGF [epidermal growth factor] is a relatively large and delicate protein. Proteins can be difficult to deliver through an intact skin barrier, and their activity can also be affected by formulation conditions and stability,” says Koestline. “So with EGF, I care quite a bit about how the ingredient is made, stabilized, formulated, and delivered rather than simply seeing EGF on an ingredient story.”
What Are Exosomes?
As Caglia explains, if a growth factor is a message, an exosome is a messenger with multiple pieces of mail. “Exosomes carry different types of biological material, including proteins, lipids, and genetic material such as mRNA and microRNA,” says Koestline. “From a skincare perspective, the interest in exosomes comes from their potential role in cellular communication, tissue repair, inflammation, and regeneration.”
It’s very exciting technology, but exosomes have not been heavily studied to date, and there is little to no regulation. “They’re the category I approach with the most caution,” says Dr. Houshmand. The source matters. “You’ll see technologies associated with human cells, plants, platelets, and other biological sources. The way they’re cultured, collected, purified, characterized, stabilized, and ultimately formulated can also vary tremendously,” says Caglia. Ultimately, these variations impact their efficacy. It’s a bit of an unwieldy space, so if you’re going to use an exosome skincare product, make sure it’s through a brand you trust.
Peptides vs Growth Factors vs Exosomes: Which Is Best for Firmer Skin?
This is where things can get a little confusing. Peptides, epidermal growth factors, and exosomes all claim to do similar things—and using a high-quality product that includes any of them will likely reveal firmer skin. The way they function, though, is different. Peptides are concern-driven and ideal for daily maintenance, while growth factors and exosomes target the way that your skin functions on structural level. How fast does it turn over? How much collagen is it consistently producing?
That said, Dr. Houshmand and Koestline recommend choosing a peptide-rich product if firming is your primary concern. “That is less because exosomes or EGF are not interesting, and more because we have more established topical evidence for certain peptides and have a better understanding of how to formulate and deliver them,” says Koestline. They’re also readily available at a range of price points and well tolerated across different skin types.
Dr. Houshmand points to growth factors as the second most compelling category—there are a handful of well-formulated products with clinical data that contribute toward the growing body of evidence supporting EGF's effectiveness at treating signs of skin aging. Exosomes on the other hand, have incredible promise in skin firming, however, the lack of research and standardization causes concern. Does that mean they're not worthwhile if you're after firmer skin? Not necessarily. But if you're looking for receipts, there aren't as many.
Can I Combine Peptides, Growth Factors, and Exosomes In My Skincare Routine?
Less is more when it comes to regenerative skincare. The basis of your routine, especially if firming is a concern, is to wear sunscreen, use a vitamin C serum, a great moisturizer, and a retinoid at night. From there, consider using one of these ingredients as an addition to your routine, rather than a core necessity. “I don't recommend layering multiple expensive regenerative serums simply to have every trending ingredient on your shelf. A consistent routine with thoughtfully formulated products is more important,” says Dr. Houshmand.
Is Skincare Enough to Firm My Skin?
To be completely honest, skincare’s ability to firm skin depends heavily on how much laxity you’re dealing with. “Skincare can improve skin quality and the appearance of firmness, but it cannot truly lift significantly lax tissue,” says Dr. Houshmand. “More advanced laxity may require a staged approach incorporating treatments such as biostimulators, fillers, neuromodulators, or energy-based devices.” No skincare product, no matter how advanced or innovative, can reverse significant laxity. You can, however, expect better skin quality, increased hydration, and a boost in collagen, all of which will give you more youthful, healthy-looking skin.
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Meet the Experts
Dr. Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand is a double board certified dermatologist specializing in cutaneous laser surgery and the dermatologic care of patients with a special interest in Cosmetic Dermatology, Laser Medicine , Acne, Hair Loss, and Melasma.
Dr. Houshmand’s completed her undergraduate degree as a Presidential Honors scholar from New York University and graduated medical school with prestigious clinical distinction honors.
She completed an Internal Medicine Residency at Georgetown University Hospital and is Board Certified in both Internal Medicine and Dermatology.
She completed her Dermatology Residency at Wright State University and served as chief resident.
Dr. Houshmand received several prestigious scholarships through the WDS and ASDS has trained with pioneers in the field of cosmetic skin treatments and dermatologic surgery. She was selected by the AAD as one of three dermatology resident recipients of the prestigious AAD International Grant.
She is an international speaker, trainer, author, and medical news correspondent and an internationally recognized leader in cosmetic dermatology.
This varied educational background and training brings Dr. Houshmand’s wealth of knowledge on the newest and latest treatments in medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology to her patients.
Krupa Koestline is a cosmetic chemist and biotech innovator with a Master’s in Biology and Biotechnology. She founded KKT Labs to change how beauty gets made — and still spends much of her time on the bench, formulating, testing, and problem-solving side by side with her team. Equal parts scientist and partner, Krupa believes breakthrough products come from pairing bold ideas with meticulous care, every single day.
A master esthetician of 28 years, Angela Caglia has spent more than 30,000 hours practicing and perfecting her craft. Trained by skincare experts in France and guided by her robust knowledge of natural ingredients learned from her childhood spent on a California farm, her unique approach to skincare is grounded in biocompatible treatments that protect the skin barrier.
Formulated without synthetic or harsh ingredients of any kind, her products and practice focus on nourishing and strengthening the lipid barrier to offer better aging support for the skin. Working with leading scientists, Angela Caglia products marry naturally-occurring ingredients with cutting-edge skincare technology to deliver transformational results—all without sensitizing the skin.
With A-list celebrity clients as proof, Angela is leading the way for a new era of clinically-proven better-aging skincare that works intuitively with your body—not against it.
