Vegan PDRN vs. Traditional PDRN: Beauty Experts Explain the Difference

Few skincare ingredients have attracted the level of global attention that PDRN has in recent years. Once best known for its use in Korean dermatology clinics, the DNA-derived ingredient has since made its way from injectable treatments into serums, masks, and other skincare products around the world. Now, as vegan versions begin appearing on shelves, one question keeps coming up: Are they backed by the same science as traditional PDRN products—or simply sharing the same acronym?

What Is Traditional PDRN?

“PDRN, short for polydeoxyribonucleotide, refers to a mixture of purified DNA fragments traditionally derived from salmonid fish,” explains Ethan Wonuk Hwang, founder and medical director of Cheongdam Le Belle Clinic in Seoul. In aesthetics, it became popularized through injectable treatments such as Rejuran, which is marketed for its regenerative skin benefits, including claims related to skin repair, elasticity, and overall skin quality.

As beauty brands adapted PDRN for at-home skincare, they expanded its reach beyond the clinics, positioning serums, masks, and other topical products as a way to bring similar skin-quality benefits to everyday routines.

“It has to be purified DNA—not just extracts that contain DNA—to qualify as PDRN,” says Danny Guo, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist in Calgary. The versions most widely studied and used in aesthetic medicine have historically been derived from salmon or trout.

However, much of that research comes from injected medical applications, including chronic wound and diabetic ulcer treatment, rather than from studies examining topical use on healthy, intact skin. Dr. Guo notes that those are very different applications from the serums and creams now entering the skincare market. He adds that there is still limited evidence showing that a topical product can produce meaningful results on its own without a delivery method designed to improve penetration, such as microneedling, electroporation or microspicules.

Despite these limitations, PDRN’s association with regenerative medicine and its popularity in Korean aesthetic treatments have helped propel it into the global spotlight. And as interest in the ingredient continues to grow, several brands are exploring new ways to create versions that align with different consumer preferences, including demand for vegan alternatives.

How Is Vegan PDRN Different From Traditional PDRN?

As brands develop vegan alternatives, some are turning to biotechnology to create plant-derived ingredients inspired by PDRN. Haruharu Wonder’s Rose PDRN is one example. The brand says its Rose PDRN is created from the callus cells of the Damask rose, using biotechnology and purification processes to produce a rose-derived DNA ingredient.

According to the brand’s R&D team, their internal testing suggests the ingredient may support skin renewal and improve the appearance of wrinkles, pointing to results related to increased wound-healing markers and proteins associated with skin elasticity. Haruharu Wonder says its technology highlights why evaluating vegan PDRN requires looking beyond its source alone, and considering the molecule itself, how it is produced, and the research supporting its claims.

Whether these newer formulations ultimately produce the same clinical outcomes associated with salmon-derived PDRN, however, remains an open question.

Does the Source Really Matter When It Comes to PDRN?

The rise of vegan PDRN has prompted a broader question: How much does the ingredient’s source actually matter? Experts say that while the source may influence production, it does not automatically determine performance. As Hwang explains, “The source matters less than the final molecular structure.”

Victoria Fu, cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions, agrees, adding that the more important distinction goes beyond the question of source and comes down to what’s actually in the formula. True PDRN refers to fragmented DNA itself, not simply an ingredient designed to recreate some of its effects. So if a plant extract mimics certain functions associated with PDRN without containing identifiable DNA fragments, she says it would be more accurate to consider it a PDRN-inspired ingredient rather than PDRN itself.

What Should I Look For In a PDRN Product?

With PDRN products multiplying across the market, the most useful information is often found beyond the front-of-pack claims. Take a closer look at a brand's website, ingredient pages, or published clinicals to see whether it clearly explains what the ingredient is, how it's made, and what testing or research supports the benefits it's highlighting.

Fu says it’s also important to remember that the ingredient is only part of what makes a product work. “You can’t just toss an ingredient into a simple water solution and call it a day,” she says. The overall formulation—including the ingredients and technologies designed to help protect PDRN and improve how it interacts with the skin—can influence how well it performs.

To that end, some brands use delivery technologies such as encapsulation, which surrounds PDRN with a protective coating that helps keep the ingredient stable and intact as it moves through the skin. Fu notes that some encapsulated PDRN products aim to improve the ingredient’s chances of reaching the skin’s fibroblasts, the cells involved in collagen production and repair. But she cautions that “encapsulated PDRN” is not necessarily a sign of a better product, since different encapsulation methods can vary in effectiveness. Instead, she recommends looking for clinical testing that supports a product’s claims—not just the way it is marketed.

According to Guo, the way a product is used matters, too. Because topical PDRN still faces the challenge of penetrating the skin barrier, he recommends considering leave-on treatments over rinse-off formulas like cleansers, since they provide more opportunity for the ingredient to remain in contact with the skin.

Is Vegan PDRN a Worthwhile Replacement for Traditional PDRN?

None of the experts interviewed for this story dismissed vegan PDRN as a gimmick, but they emphasized that it’s still too early to consider it a replacement for salmon-derived PDRN—or other more established skincare ingredients, for that matter. As Dr. Guo points out, the ingredient is already being discussed online with the confidence of established actives like retinoids and vitamin C. "That is definitely a stretch."

Hwang views vegan PDRN as a separate area of innovation, rather than the future of PDRN. “Traditional PDRN already has a substantial body of scientific and clinical evidence behind it. New biotechnology-derived alternatives may eventually prove their value, but they still need to build a comparable foundation,” he says.

Same acronym, next chapter. Whether PDRN swims in from the sea or is born from biotechnology, the future of the ingredient will come down to one thing: whether the science can keep pace with the hype.

The Best Traditional and Vegan PDRN Products to Try

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Meet the Experts

Victoria Fu

Cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions, a skincare education platform and product brand focused on ingredient transparency and science-backed formulation.

Ethan Wonuk Hwang

Board-certified family medicine and cosmetic physician, founder and medical director of Cheongdam Le Belle Clinic in Seoul, specializing in aesthetic medicine and facial rejuvenation.

Danny Guo

Double board-certified dermatologist specializing in medical, cosmetic, and surgical dermatology, with expertise in evaluating skincare ingredients and aesthetic treatments.