Ordinarily, there's a gradual return to normalcy in the days that follow a chaotic, jam-packed fashion month in New York, London, Paris, and Milan. After catching up on sleep, editors return to the workplace to dissect the trends and map out coverage for the fall season. Of course, this season was a bit different. With stay-at-home orders issued on the tail end of the Paris collections, there was no embrace of colleagues returning from their whirlwind time abroad. Instead, we reflected on the fall 2020 trends via Zoom. In our respective homes, we discussed our favorite collections, the pieces worth investing in, and the essential items to have for the colder months ahead. Here's what we came up with.
This fall, metallics will offer a spirited new way to illuminate fall's cozy knits and knee-high leather boots, with suitable options for both work and play. Understated shimmering pinstripes covered blazers at Versace, while high-shine silver button-downs kept their cool at Brunello Cucinelli.
Runway: Brunello Cucinelli
The schoolgirl staple, derived from the tartan patterns of western Scotland, arrived on the runways in bright and muted checks alike. Shrunken argyle cardigans and catsuits walked at Miu Miu, V-neck argyle knits were paired with headscarves at Dior, and cheeky argyle cut-outs adorned jumpers at Victoria Beckham.
A fixation on folkloric patchwork patterns reigned supreme at Marni (left), while feminine-forward patchwork and embroidered pieces peppered the runways at Tory Burch. Antique patchwork fabrics were an inspiration for the quilt-like creations on display at Alexander McQueen.
This season, there was a full commitment to wearing a cape as a coat. Michael Kors' heritage plaid versions were fit for a Cotswold escape. Oscar de la Renta's button-embellished capes were a perfect overlay to tailored knee-length dresses, and Isabel Marant's bohemian capes were dramatically oversized, styled with a belt at the waist.
For fall, designers gave their own takes on rebellious plaid prints. Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim of Monse described their plaids as "happy punk." Slinky slip dresses with thigh-high slits showed off choker necklaces and rubber-soled combat boots. R13 fully embraced their punk DNA with oversized checked outerwear and signature leathers while Dries Van Noten tied grungy '90s plaid-button ups, à la Kurt Cobain, at the waist.
We've seen fringe in past seasons, but there was more dedication to the trend for fall 2020. Subtle fringe-trim hemlines finished coats at Gabriela Hearst. Full-on fringe dresses cascaded down the Jil Sander runway. At Bottega Veneta, layers of fringe transformed body-con jersey knits.
Runway: Gabriela Hearst
As one of the must-haves of the season, fall's infatuation with shearling manifested in several different ways. There were full-length beige coats at Isabel Marant, Celine, and a signature vegan version at Stella McCartney. A shearling bomber jacket showed up at Dior. For cozy shots of shearling; there were pink linings at Prada, smoke-ring collars at JW Anderson, and orange shearling trims at Louis Vuitton.
Runway: Isabel Marant
Geo prints fully asserted their dominance on the fall runways. Hermès' Mondrian-inspired lines took over button-down blouses and knits. Oversized dots energized dresses at Givenchy (in what would be designer Claire Waight Keller's last season with the house), while interlocking shapes and picture-hunt illustrations blanketed tailored suiting at McQueen.
Runway: Alexander McQueen
Perfectly proportioned bows added polish to the necklines at Chanel. Loosely tied bows billowed from the sleeves at Giambattista Valli. At Celine, bows took on a menswear appeal, fastened to the collars of button-down shirts.