The Unending Allure of a Beat-Up Birkin Bag
Handbags "with character" can still fetch five-figure prices on the resale market. Here's why.
The Hermès Birkin bag surpassed the definition of "accessory" long ago. "Fashion legend" is more accurate. It has its own mythical origin story involving a chance meeting between French actress Jane Birkin and Hermès executive chairman Jean-Louis Dumas and an incredibly exclusive selection process that's lasted since its 1984 release. (You have to be invited to buy one.) Celebrities' collections of rare Birkin bags, from Jennifer Lopez's Himalayan to Victoria Beckham's $82,500 rendition, are the subjects of endless fascination and envy. This year, as a bag charm trend inspired by Birkin, the person, has taken off, it even earned its own verb: to "Birkin-ify," or to make a bag look well-loved and worn-in with charms, silk scarves, and intentional distressing.
Since one cannot simply walk into the Hermès flagship on Madison Avenue and purchase a Birkin bag—even if they have between $15,000 and $20,000 burning a hole in the pocket of their Loro Piana cashmere sweatpants—fashion fans have to resort to other means. Some are willing to splurge on "superfakes," or very convincing dupes. Others who want the real deal dip into the world of resale—where even used Birkin bags with noticeable signs of wear are now regularly fetching five-figure prices.
Part of a Birkin's allure is getting the privilege to wear one in. To fling it down on the sidewalk next to you at an outdoor café, to rest it in the crook of your arm until it molds to its shape. Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen were the poster-sisters for carrying their Birkins in a way that showed they were loved—until they designed a quiet luxury competitor, the Margaux bag. As such, shoppers are embracing pre-loved versions that give them a taste of J.Lo or Posh Spice styling, even if they cost just as much as a fresh one.
Cory Ransom, senior brand marketing manager at Fashionphile, tells me 30 percent of Hermès sales on the platform this year are of bags in "Very Good" or "Good" condition, a designation including slight scratches, fading, or peeling. Sought-after styles with developed patina on the platform include the Hermès Togo Birkin 35 and the Hermès Box Kelly Sellier 32.
"Hermès shoppers have shown particular interest in classic styles that age gracefully, especially in timeless neutrals and durable leathers," Ransom says. "While these bags may show minimal signs of previous use, they maintain their iconic elegance and structural integrity."
Birkin bags hold up, even when they're being used like a dog carrier (as Ciara does with her Birkin 50), traveling all over the world (as they do with Brooke Shields), or making their way into an offline fashion lover's closet. "Today's luxury shoppers are embracing pre-owned bags with character for both practical and mindful reasons," Ransom says. "While giftable and new items remain popular, there's a growing appreciation for bags that show love from their previous lives—they often come with significant savings." Of course, savings are relative in the world of rare designer bags. Many of the Hermès Birkins listed on Fashionphile cost between $13,000 and $25,000.
The bag expert adds that the rise in pre-Birkin-ified Birkins is a sign of conscious consumption. "Many shoppers see choosing pre-owned luxury as a smart way to acquire beautiful pieces while making more sustainable choices. Whether it's a Chanel bag with subtle corner wear or a vintage Hermès with a natural patina, these pieces tell a story while offering remarkable value."
Stay In The Know
Get exclusive access to fashion and beauty trends, hot-off-the-press celebrity news, and more.
This twist on prestige shopping echoes the intentionally dirty designer jeans J.Lo often wears or the pre-distressing found on sneakers from Golden Goose. They come to shoppers with backstory built-in. Of course, none of these inventions have the actual history of the eternal It-bag: New or used, a Birkin is a Birkin.
Halie LeSavage is the senior fashion and beauty news editor at Marie Claire, where she assigns, edits, and writes stories for both sections. Halie is an expert on runway trends, celebrity style, emerging fashion and beauty brands, and shopping (naturally). In over seven years as a professional journalist, Halie’s reporting has ranged from fashion week coverage spanning the Copenhagen, New York, Milan, and Paris markets, to profiles on industry insiders like celebrity stylist Molly Dickson, to breaking news stories on noteworthy brand collaborations and beauty product launches. (She can personally confirm that Bella Hadid’s Ôrebella perfume is worth the hype.) She has also written dozens of research-backed shopping guides to finding the best tote bags, ballet flats, and more. Most of all, Halie loves to explore what style trends—like the rise of emotional support accessories or TikTok’s 75 Hard Style Challenge—can say about culture writ large. She also justifies almost any purchase by saying it’s “for work.”
Halie has previously held writer and editor roles at Glamour, Morning Brew, and Harper’s Bazaar. She has been cited as a fashion and beauty expert in The Cut, CNN Underscored, and Reuters, among other outlets, and appears in newsletters like Selleb and Self Checkout to provide shopping recommendations. In 2022, she earned the Hearst Spotlight Award for excellence and innovation in fashion journalism. She holds a Bachelor’s Degree in English from Harvard College. Outside of work, Halie is passionate about books, baking, and her miniature Bernedoodle, Dolly. For a behind-the-scenes look at her reporting, you can follow Halie on Instagram and TikTok.
-
Zara Tindall Puts a Purple Velvet Spin on Holiday Suiting
Chic and cozy—what's not to like? Who says only men get to wear suits at Christmas?
By Alicia Lutes Published
-
Gigi Hadid's Scarf Is Ideal for This Too-Cold-to-Function December
She looked cozy and chic on a downtown errand run.
By Halie LeSavage Published
-
Fans Have a Lot of Thoughts on Whether Sandy and Nick's Chaotic Relationship Will—or Should—Survive 'The Ultimatum'
They're by far the most controversial couple on season 3.
By Quinci LeGardye Published
-
Gigi Hadid's Extra-Oversize Cloud Scarf Is the Perfect Accessory for When It's Too Cold to Function
She looked cozy and chic on a downtown errand run.
By Halie LeSavage Published
-
Katie Holmes Bundles Up in a $4,995 Take on the Shearling Coat Trend and $60 Velvet Pants
She's never looked cozier.
By Halie LeSavage Last updated
-
Sabrina Carpenter Toasts Her Christmas Special in Vintage Chanel Faux Furs and an Opulent Holiday Shoe Trend
She's dressed like the host with the most.
By Halie LeSavage Last updated
-
Kendall Jenner Kickstarts Cozy Girl Winter in Ugg Boots, Leggings, and The Row's $4,300 Tote Bag
The model finally pulled her cuddly essentials out of storage.
By Hanna Lustig Published
-
Jennifer Lopez's Skintight Crystal Gown at the IndieWire Awards Lights Up the Entire Room
I'm suddenly inspired for New Year's Eve.
By Halie LeSavage Published
-
Forget the Ironic L.L.Bean Tote—This Tibi Collab Is Genuinely Chic
The brand elevated a fashion-editor favorite by several degrees.
By Halie LeSavage Published
-
Hailey Bieber Transforms Winter 2024's Cozy Chocolate Brown Trend Into a Workwear Staple
The entrepreneur tried a trending color in her latest 'fit check.
By Halie LeSavage Last updated
-
Blake Lively Channels Dorothy in Ruby Slippers and a Poppy-Covered Chanel Bag for a Star-Studded 'Wicked' Screening
The self-styled actor couldn't help but method-dress for a 'Wicked' screening.
By Hanna Lustig Published