When caring for your natural hair, you'll likely be tempted to try a plethora of styles, from goddess braids to cornrows to the sleek silk press. The beauty of the silk press is that it can be accomplished by the hands of a professional, or you can DIY the style from the comfort of your own home. When done correctly, it’s the perfect go-to for temporarily transforming your kinks and curls without permanently compromising your hair texture. To better understand the best process for a healthy, high-performance silk press, I spoke with hairstylists Takisha Sturdivant-Drew and Ikeyia Powell, both of whom have years of experience styling and caring for natural hair.
What Is a Silk Press?
A silk press is a straight, smooth hairstyle that, according to Powell, "is done using a flat iron and gives the appearance of a permanent chemical straightening treatment without the damage of it." She adds that it's a modern approach to the old-school hot comb press that temporarily straightens textured or curly hair. The result is a bone-straight, silk-like finish.
Nailing a silk press at home is all about using the right tools and techniques. It's critical to prep your natural hair before applying heat to ensure a sleek, shiny, and healthy look. If you don't know where to begin, never fear: Our experts have you covered.
Step One: Cleanse
This is the most crucial step to achieving a silk press with a lot of body and movement. "Start by detangling your dry hair before shampooing," says Powell. "Go in with a clarifying shampoo that is meant to detox the hair from heavy oils and previously used products before following up with a moisturizing shampoo to hydrate your strands."
However, if you're struggling with dryness or plan on achieving a silk press frequently, Sturdivant-Drew recommends using a nourishing shampoo made for curly hair. By hydrating in advance, she says, your hair will be less prone to heat damage and your style will last longer.
Sturdivant-Drew says she uses this shampoo for her own silk press prep because of how hydrating it is. "What I love about Smooth Moisture is that their products are built for silk presses," she explains, adding that this particular option lends hair a lasting "beautiful shine."
Pros: Expert-approved; Shine-enhancing; Made with natural hair, and silk presses in particular, in mind
Cons: Contains sulfates
As Powell mentioned, you may want to opt for a clarifying shampoo before giving yourself a silk press. Ouai's Detox Shampoo is a popular option among customers of all hair types (it's a consistent bestseller at Sephora) for its ability to remove grease, buildup, and dandruff from the scalp in just one wash. Just be sure to condition well, because clarifying shampoos are known to be drying.
Pros: Clarifying; Cruelty-free; Reduces oiliness; Supports scalp health
Cons: Can be drying—don't use with every wash
Not only does this detoxifying shampoo clear dirt, buildup, and excess oil like any other clarifying option, but it also promises to protect hair from UV damage and pollution. It's also color-safe—a huge relief for anyone rightfully afraid that their clarifying shampoo is going to strip their highlights.
Pros: Color-safe; Large bottle and a little goes a long way; Clarifying; Protects hair
Cons: More expensive than most competitors
This is another excellent hydrating option made with curly and textured hair in mind. It's also popular among customers with high-porosity hair, because it provides an immediate boost of hydration that helps hair appear smooth and frizz-free. This is because of its high-performance, protein-infused formula, which is meant to strengthen strands themselves from the inside out.
Pros: Hydrating; Vegan; Cruelty-free
Cons: Contains sulfates
Step Two: Deep Condition
For an added burst of hydration, nourish your strands by incorporating a deep conditioner into your wash day routine. There are a variety of hair masks available for all curl patterns and levels of thickness, as well as options that deliver results in just a few minutes. However, Powell says that "for the best results, allow your deep conditioner to sit on your hair for 15 to 20 minutes with a plastic cap or under a hair steamer." This way, you'll head into your silk press with your most nourished, soft, and frizz-free hair. Sturdivant-Drew says this step is also imperative for minimizing heat damage as much as possible.
I've used this mask myself and can attest to its efficacy. It has a smooth, easy-to-spread texture that doesn't drip but is a breeze to wash out. It also makes my hair appear smoother and feel softer with just one use. It also has a natural scent that's pleasant but not overpowering, and that doesn't clash with any of my perfumes or scented body products.
Pros: Editor-approved; Gentle scent; Made with natural ingredients (castor oil); Easy to wash out; Easy to apply
Cons: Creates a tingling feeling on the scalp that not all users will like
I've always been a fan of Moroccanoil: Its products have a gentle, powdery scent that works well with other scented products, and they make hair feel and look softer almost immediately. This treatment is made especially for thick hair and curls, and it promises to increase shine. Plus, this treatment can be left in, so you don't have to deal with waiting and washing it out.
Pros: Editor-approved; Made with thick and textured hair in mind; Shine-enhancing; No need to wash it out
Cons: Contains silicones
This clean, color-safe hair mask is currently trending on TikTok for its ability to revive dull, dry hair with each use. It's perfect for high-porosity hair as well as hair that's been bleached, chemically treated, or damaged by environmental factors like UV rays, chlorine, and salt water. It also takes only four minutes for this deep conditioner to work—significantly better than other options, which tend to require 10 to 15 minutes.
Pros: Clean; Award-winning; Popular online; Quick results
Cons: Strong smell
This clean, vegan deep conditioning mask promises to nourish hair, repair dryness, and minimize frizz. It's also lightweight enough to use on thin hair, according to reviewers, and doesn't produce buildup or weigh hair down.
Pros: Vegan; Made with natural hair in mind; Clean
Cons: Strong smell
Step Three: Apply a Heat Protectant
A silk press involves two forms of heat: blow drying and flat ironing. It's imperative to protect your natural texture from damage by coating your hair with a lightweight heat protectant. They come in a spray or serum form and Sturdivant-Drew says they should be applied evenly through your wet hair before any heat is applied.
This primer is specifically made to guard hair from heat damage—but not just when it comes to heat tools. It also protects hair from harmful UV light, which can dry hair out and cause dullness and discoloration.
Pros: Award-winning; Lightweight; Conditioning; Protective
Cons: Contains alcohol
Yet another great option from Moroccanoil, this heat protectant is made with heat tools in mind, protecting hair from temperatures up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit (the standard temperature of most straighteners). I've used it myself and love how it never weighs my hair down, whether I'm straightening it or embracing my natural curls.
Pros: Editor-approved; Lightweight; Gentle scent
Cons: Contains silicones
You can use this serum either before or after heat-treating your hair. It's both proactive and reactive, addressing existent heat damage with a punch of moisture while also prepping hair for more heat. Thicker than most of its competitors, it's especially great for textured and high-porosity hair.
Pros: Great for dry hair; Addresses existent hair damage; Sustainable packaging (reusable glass jar)
Cons: Small container
If, like me, you don't want your hair routine to take hours, you might want to consider this heat protectant spray from Living Proof. It's easy to apply evenly and keeps your hands clean (you won't have to apply with your fingers). Plus, its spray texture makes it the most lightweight option yet.
Pros: Lightweight; Free of silicones and parabens
Cons: Contains alcohol
Step Four: Blow Dry
Starting at the ends of your hair and working your way up to the root, carefully blow-dry your hair until it's completely dry—if it's still wet when you begin straightening, you're more likely to experience heat damage. Powell also recommends using the blow dryer to smooth out your hair as much as possible, explaining, "The straighter you can get the hair during the blow-drying process, the less heat you'll have to use while flat-ironing. For maximum stretch of the hair, use a blow dryer with a concentrated nozzle and a Denman brush, or a blow dryer with a comb attachment." Sturdivant-Drew recommends adding a modest amount of your strengthening leave-in conditioner between passes with the blow dryer for extra smoothness.
This hair dryer set contains two concentrate attachments that allow you to get your smoothest blowout yet. Plus, it contains eight settings, allowing you to adjust the heat, ion, and speed of the dryer, so you can choose the levels best for your hair and your comfort level. It also has a cold shot option—an excellent option for damage reduction or hot days.
Pros: Two attachment options; Adjustable heat, speed, and ion settings
Cons: Doesn't contain other attachments like a diffuser, comb, etc.
The Denman brush is a classic for a reason: It smooths frizz and works wonders on curls, increasing definition and volume with each brush. Plus, it looks gorgeous on any vanity, with its iconic red and black colorway. These brushes are also incredibly durable: My mom bought hers before I was born, and it's still in excellent shape.
Pros: Classic; Enhances definition and volume; Detangles quickly; Aesthetically pleasing
Cons: None found
This was my go-to hair dryer for quite some time. It's easy to use, intuitive to adjust, and dries hair surprisingly quickly. It also comes with a diffuser for defined curls and both concentrated and comb attachments, which are ideal for a silk press. And at such an affordable price point (under $50!), you really can't go wrong.
Pros: Affordable; Multiple attachments; Works quickly
Cons: Not as many temperature adjustment options as more expensive competitors
Step Five: Straighten
Now, it's time to break out the straightener. Powell says that for best results, you should separate small sections of hair—about an inch thick—and straighten slowly. "The smaller the sections, the silkier the hair," she explains, adding that it's best to start at the nape and work from root to tip.
It's important to note that the type of flat iron you use plays a huge role in the results. "A titanium flat iron will give you maximum straightening capabilities but can [burn] the hair if not used properly," says Powell. "Titanium irons should not be set to anything higher than 400 degrees for a single silk press session."
Step Six: Smooth
Finally, both Powell and Sturdivant-Drew recommend topping off your silk press routine with a serum for "additional sleekness and shine," in Powell's words. However, she warns against using a heavy oil (castor oil and coconut oil are some of the biggest culprits), as these can weigh down hair or make it feel greasy. Instead, she says, "The goal is a light and airy look with shine."
How Long Does a Silk Press Last?
While creating an at-home silk press involves a lot of work, it doesn't last forever. "A silk press can last from one to three weeks depending on the texture of your hair, lifestyle, at-home care, and the straightening history," says Powell, explaining that humidity is the number one factor in the longevity of the look. "If you sweat a lot or are physically active, your silk press may not last as long. Some clients opt to silk press their hair during the colder months as opposed to the warmer months when the humidity is at an all-time high, causing frizz."
The best way to maintain your style is to wrap your hair in a silk hair wrap and wear a shower cap when bathing. Powell also recommends waiting six to 12 weeks between each silk press session to retain length and minimize heat damage.
Meet the Experts
Takisha Sturdivant-Drew has been a celebrity hairstylist for over 20 years, having worked with Annie Leibovitz, Marc Baptiste, Kerry Washington, Gabrielle Union, Ashley Graham, Yvonne Orji, Lucy Liu, Naturi Naughton, Mary J. Blige, Gina Torres, Margarita Levieva, and more. She also owns Takisha Studio in Brooklyn, New York, and TSD Hair Extensions.
Ikeyia Powell is a professional hairstylist from Tallahassee, Florida. She has worked with all hair types and is passionate about helping everyday women create looks that fit into their busy lifestyles. She is based in Brooklyn, New York.
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