What Are Growth Factors and Why Are They So Buzzy In the Skincare World? Dermatologists Explain the Benefits
Plus, the different between EGF and FGF—and which is best for your skin concerns.
Building an effective skincare routine used to mean applying sunscreen in the morning and maybe a retinol at night. Now? It can feel like you need to be a biotech major just to shop for an anti-aging serum. Ingredient lists sound more at home in medical journals than Sephora aisles as brands continually embrace science-heavy ingredients—think PDRN, copper peptides, and exosomes—and it’s on us to figure out which innovations are genuinely legitimate versus simply well marketed. Growth factors are the latest craze in this category, popping up in luxury-leaning serums and medical-grade moisturizers (often accompanied by eye-watering price tags). The promise? Brighter, smoother, more resilient skin. But do they actually deliver?
To see if growth factors are truly pulling their weight, I consulted dermatologists and a plastic surgeon to uncover everything there is to know about the buzzy ingredient. Ahead, you’ll discover what growth factors are exactly, their key benefits, and if they’re worth the investment.
What Are Growth Factors?
Growth factors aren’t just a hyped up skincare ingredient in fancy serums. According to Daniel Gould, MD, PhD, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, California, they’re naturally occurring signaling proteins that are called into action when your skin’s in need of repair. “They tell cells what to do, like divide, move, build collagen, or heal,” he says.
The mechanism is similar when they’re applied topically. Brendan Camp, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City and Long Island, likens them to text messages between your skin cells. “These ‘text messages’ target separate aspects of your skin,” such as repairing the skin barrier or producing collagen, “yet they work together to produce balanced, beautiful, and healthy results,” he says.
What Are the Different Types of Growth Factors?
The key types of growth factors, meaning the ones you’ll most frequently see in skincare formulations, include epidermal growth factor (EGF) and fibroblast growth factor (FGF). “EGF primarily works on epidermal cells in the outer layers of the skin, helping support skin renewal, barrier repair, and overall skin texture,” says Kseniya Kobets, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care. “FGF works deeper in the dermis on fibroblasts—the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin—so it is more closely associated with firmness, elasticity, and structural support.”
While some formulations rely on one or the other, some include both—not to mention a host of other regenerative powerhouses. “Some contain a mixture of growth factors, cytokines, peptides, conditioned media, or exosome-derived signaling molecules designed to mimic the complex communication network involved in wound healing and skin rejuvenation,” Dr. Kobets explains. It’s also common for growth factor products to pack hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients you’re more familiar with, including hyaluronic acid, glycerin, niacinamide, and ceramides. At the end of the day, Dr. Kobets says it’s best to evaluate the overall formulation versus whether a given product contains EGF, FGF, or both.
How Are Growth Factors Sourced?
According to Dr. Gould, there are three primary sources of growth factors. First up are human-derived growth factors, which come from cultured fibroblasts, fetal foreskin fibroblasts, or platelets. These are the most-studied types, not to mention closest match to what our own skin produces naturally. Next are recombinant growth factors, which are lab-made using bacteria or yeast. “They are purified, defined, and consistent from batch to batch, and they can be very effective,” says Dr. Gould. There are also plant-derived growth factors, but Dr. Gould says the science behind them is weak. “Plants do not have the same signaling biology that humans do, plant growth factors lack receptor homology to human skin cells, and the evidence that they provide meaningful benefit is thin,” he says.
Growth factors are a solid choice for those seeking anti-aging benefits but can’t tolerate stronger actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids.
Dr. Kobets
Your best bet is to read the fine print and opt for human-derived or lab-made growth factors. Just be warned, however, that they tend to be pretty pricey—oftentimes climbing up to three figures. “With some growth factor products, a higher price tag is warranted due to complex production and premium costs associated with sourcing them,” says Dr. Camp. “Growth factors are incredibly delicate and require biotechnological processes to ensure they remain stable and effective.” That said, a high price tag won’t guarantee a quality product. Dr. Camp advises considering brand legitimacy and prioritizing formulas with proven clinical results.
What Are the Skincare Benefits of Growth Factors?
Growth factors are primarily used to support collagen production, improve skin texture, soften fine lines, and enhance the overall quality, function, and repair of your skin, says Dr. Kobets. “They can also help support barrier recovery and may improve the appearance of photodamage [e.g., wrinkles and sun spots] over time,” she adds.
Growth factors are especially beneficial when used alongside in-office treatments such as microneedling and fractional laser resurfacing. Such treatments create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, which triggers a wound-healing response. Not only do growth factors help prep the skin to become more resilient before the procedure but also support recovery afterwards. “Growth factors are naturally involved in that healing cascade, so applying them during the recovery phase may help support tissue repair and optimize results,” says Dr. Kobets.
According to Dr. Camp, they can even enhance recovery after certain surgeries. “Because growth factors specifically target areas of the skin that need repair, they work efficiently to accelerate healing and improve complexion,” he says.
Who Should Use Growth Factors?
Dr. Gould explains that ideal candidates to use growth factors include adults over 30 who have thin or compromised skin and could use ongoing collagen support. Since they’re gentle, growth factors are also a solid choice for those seeking anti-aging benefits but can’t tolerate stronger actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids, adds Dr. Kobets. However, since they support the skin barrier, using them alongside these heavy hitters can make your skin more readily accept them.
How Do You Use Growth Factors?
Convinced that it’s time to add growth factors to your lineup? Some good news: Unlike some other actives, they’re refreshingly low maintenance and work with just about every other skincare product.
For best results, Dr. Gould suggests using a growth factor serum twice daily. In the morning, apply it after cleansing and a vitamin C serum and before your moisturizer and SPF. In the evening, apply it in between a retinoid or exfoliating acid (never both) and your moisturizer. And if you’re using a growth factor moisturizer, you don’t need another EGF serum in your lineup.
Once you start using them, it’s possible to notice increased hydration immediately after use—namely if the formula contains humectants and barrier-boosting ingredients. However, Dr. Kobets says that you’ll need some patience to experience more significant results. “Early improvements in radiance and skin smoothness may become noticeable within four to six weeks, while meaningful changes in texture, fine lines, and overall skin quality typically take closer to two to three months of consistent use,” she says.
The Bottom Line on Growth Factors
While growth factors aren’t new, they’re becoming more common in science-driven formulas to support resilient, youthful-looking skin over time. They’re trendy enough to power luxury launches, yet backed by enough science that dermatologists continue to praise them. Just don’t expect Botox in a bottle.
All said, Dr. Kobets says growth factors should be viewed as additional skin communicators rather than miracle ingredients. “Unlike fillers or neuromodulators, growth factor products are not quick fixes,” she says. “They’re a long-term skin health investment.” And the best results won’t come from patting on an EGF serum and calling it a day. Instead, pair it alongside tried-and-true standards—including your morning sunscreen and antioxidants plus nightly retinoids—and maybe the occasional in-office rejuvenation procedure. In time, the team effort should pave the way toward your most coveted complexion goals.
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Meet the Experts
Dr. Daniel Gould is a Beverly Hills board-certified plastic surgeon internationally recognized for natural, lasting results in deep-plane facelifts, regenerative rejuvenation, and advanced body contouring. Blending artistry with regenerative science, he restores youthful structure and skin quality through his signature approach, helping patients look refreshed—never overdone—with outcomes that last. Dr. Gould attended medical school at Baylor College of Medicine, received his PhD in Bioengineering at Rice University (through the prestigious NIH Medical Scientist Training Program), completed his medical residency at the University of Southern California and fellowship via the American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery at the top cosmetic surgery fellowship in Beverly Hills.
Dr. Brendan Camp is double board-certified in dermatology and dermatopathology. He sees patients at MDCS Dermatology in Midtown NYC and Commack and Hampton Bays, Long Island.
Dr. Kseniya Kobets is a board-certified dermatologist and the director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in Elmsford, New York. Dr. Kobets specializes in cosmetic and medical treatments including acne and scar treatment, injectables, chemical peels, hair restoration, laser procedures, microneedling, photodynamic treatment, platelet-rich plasma, thread lifts, and other pro-aging and healthy skin therapies
