I Tried the New Dieux Skin Mercy Intense Recovery Cream for My Stressed, Dry Complexion
Here are my honest thoughts.
2025 closed out with some of the worst skin issues of my life. The cold weather is making my eczema flare, hormonal breakouts have taken up permanent residence along my right cheek and jawline, and the poor corners of my nose are so cracked and dry that I've started to forget what my face looked like sans inflammation. We are, in a word, struggling over here in New York, which means it's time to break out the richest, most reparative moisturizers I have. It's also why I was more than eager to test out a new rich skin repair cream from one of my favorite skincare brands, Dieux.
A sample of the Dieux Skin Mercy Intense Recovery Cream landed on my desk a few weeks into December, right when my epidermis started to choose violence. I'm always wary of testing new formulas when my skin is acting up (stressed, inflamed skin is especially sensitive and temperamental) but I was willing to try basically anything to coax it back into a soothed, supple, hydrated state. Plus, when I saw the ingredient list (more on that in a second), I knew that it could only bode healthy, nourishing things for my face, neck, chest, and hands, all the areas that require the most love in my skincare regimen.
Ahead, my honest review of the new Dieux Skin Mercy Intense Recovery Cream, tested in the depths of a particularly frigid, arid winter.
The Formula
Dieux co-founders Charlotte Palermino and Joyce de Lemos do not play about skincare ingredients. And since the brand already has two other moisturizers in the collection (Air Angel for acne-prone skin and Instant Angel for deeper hydration) this new addition had to be bringing something special to the table. Spoiler alert: it does.
The barrier-repairing formula spotlights four key ingredients to help calm, moisturize and strengthen stressed skin. One percent colloidal oatmeal is a derm-beloved ingredient with clinical studies backing up its claims to calm itchiness, irritation, and general skin inflammation. Ten percent glycerin is a hydrating humectant superstar (and my preferred option over hyaluronic acid if I'm being honest). A three percent soothing complex comprised of tazman fruit, bisabolol, allantoin, and panthenol reduces redness and soothes the skin. And finally, point one percent licorice root protects the skin from environmental and age-related stressors which can sap your skin's glow and generally make your complexion look and feel lackluster.
Best of all, the brand conducted clinical studies to support the cream's lofty claims. 34 panelists with self-perceived sensitive skin reported 100 percent improvement in hydration, with clinical data showing a 120 percent increase of hydration upon application. All of the testers also saw improved skin barrier function and improved texture. Thanks, I'll take all of that, please.
There are also some impressive claims around the cream's benefits for eczema. 11 panelists with eczema tested the formula for four weeks and all of them found significant improvement in their scaliness after initial application. The cream has also been clinically proved to reduce eczema-related scaliness by 62.39 percent after four weeks. Given that I had a eczema flare on my hands when it was time to test, I was eager to see if this new product could stack up to my usual regimen.
The Application
The cream is housed in a hygienic tube format, like the other moisturizers in Dieux's line. After cleansing with a gentle cream face wash, applying my niacinamide serum, and a hydrating eye cream, I used a generous pea-sized amount (a very fat, healthy pea) across my face and neck. I then waited about three minutes before going in with my favorite mineral sunscreen to finish out my daytime routine.
The texture of the cream is silky soft and very blendable, which you don't always see with a thicker, barrier-repairing moisturizer. It left my skin with a stunning glow, despite my radiator sucking up all the humidity in my Brooklyn apartment. Still, applying a cream concealer after the application and SPF definitely requires a primer, even for small spots, as the richness of the formula can cause the makeup to slip and slide by midday in my experience. However, my skin didn't feel as tight as it tends to become by the afternoon with my regular moisturizer, and the flakey skin that can pop up around healing breakouts was nowhere to be found. I still saw some dryness around my nostrils, however, the area that always gives me trouble in the winter, especially by the time the sun set.
The Takeaway
Overall, I'm definitely a fan of this new moisturizer, but it wasn't quite as thick as I was hoping to find, especially if I was going to use it as a night cream. For troublesome spots like nearly-healed breakouts, cracked skin, and eczema patches, I still needed an occlusive option (my go-to is Aquaphor) to seal in as much hydration as possible and keep those spots from drying out. But it wasn't even the hydrating benefits that have me smitten—it's the texture of my skin post-application. My skin felt velvety soft for hours on end, even on my hands post-washing throughout the day. The effect was like I had applied a thin layer of invisible silk wherever the cream touched my skin, something I very much enjoyed. I could also see that a bit of the redness and irritation from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (aka the red marks left over from healed acne) was diffused, even after just one day of using the cream.
I'll consider this formula as a softening, smoothing, IRL filter for my perennially dry skin. But I'm most eager to use a thicker layer as a night cream, and then applying a petrolatum-rich slugging balm to seal everything in and wake up with baby-bottom soft skin, even in the depths of winter. Trust me—there's no way frigid weather can ever truly sap my glow.
Other Dieux Products I Love
My all-time favorite workhorse serum, especially when my skin is stressed. I'm never without this baby in my vanity cabinet.
The ideal gentle cleanser that actually lathers without stripping your skin. J'adore.
Peptides signal your skin to ramp up collagen and elastin production, the proteins that give you skin that youthful, bouncy effect. Needless to say, this eye serum delivers all that and more.
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