Since it was announced back in July that London-based label Erdem would be the next designer to collaborate with fast-fashion retailer H&M, the fashion world has been waiting with bated breath. (A whimsical film directed by Baz Luhrmann teasing the release only added to the hype.) Now, we’re getting our first peek. On Thursday the brand released a lookbook—shot by Michal Pudelka, who’s known for his dreamy images—showcasing every beautiful piece from the collection, from feminine floral gowns and sequin slip dresses to tweed suits and Victorian-neckline blouses.
For inspiration, Moralioglu looked to his childhood. “I found myself reflecting on how we dressed throughout high school, and thinking about pieces that my mother and sister wore when I was growing up.” Slouchy Fair Isle knits recall those his sisters used to layer over tea dresses and army boots, while a tweed overcoat echoes one owned by his father (which his mother used to throw on to drive the kids to school). “I was also inspired by the Bruce Weber-directed video for the Pet Shop Boys song ‘Being Boring’,” says Moralioglu, who worked in other nods to ‘90s culture like cropped mohair sweaters (inspired by Lara Flynn Boyle chain-smoking Twin Peaks character). “It led me to think about a group of friends coming together at an English country house, finding these pieces and wearing them in their own way.”
His favorite look? A double-breasted suit borrowed from a design in the menswear collection (a first for the womenswear designer, who had never before tackled mens clothing). “During fittings, I put the men’s single-breasted suit on our female fit model. She looked so good in it that we had to make a version for women,” he says. “It’s double-breasted to create more of a contrast between masculine and feminine, and the trousers are boyish and wide with a high-cut waist. It’s about re-examining silhouettes and understanding how they can be moved and re-appropriated in different ways.” Tailored separates aside, Erdem fans will be pleased to find his signature feminine dresses—namely sequined slips, flirty cocktail numbers, and floor-grazing lace gowns.
“The idea that people who don’t know what I do will become familiar with my work feels extraordinary,” says Moralioglu, who, as the 17th designer to collaborate with H&M, follows in the footsteps of heavyweights like Balmain, Stella McCartney, Karl Lagerfeld, and Isabel Marant. “It feels very democratic to be offering what you do to a much bigger group of people around the world, and to do so with a collection that is made so beautifully, with such attention to detail.” He's certainly got our vote.
The H&M x Erdem collection will be available to buy worldwide in H&M stores and online starting November 2nd.