I Swear By Uniform Dressing—These Are the Go-To Pieces I Always Reach For

The easiest way to construct an outfit.

images of Grace O'Neill Dougherty in uniform basics
(Image credit: Grace O'Neill Dougherty)

In another life, I'd work a corporate job and wear a pencil skirt with nylons and black pumps every day. As it turns out, I live in Los Angeles where the heat is dry and work from home when I'm not on set. To make myself not insane, I've developed a daily uniform of sorts.

In my formative years, I wore a uniform every day, as was typical of the private school experience. After graduating high school I lived in New York City for eight years, only to move to California and fall in love with an all-American man from Venice, California. He wears jeans and a T-shirt every day, which is one reason I know that a go-to style uniform—in his case, jeans and a plain Hanes white tee—is all that's needed.

Joan Didion’s packing list is a great example. She evidently had a uniform of her own, too. It consisted of two skirts, two jerseys or leotards, one sweater, two pairs of shoes, stockings, a nightgown, a bra, a robe, and slippers. My own version of uniform dressing is inspired by '90’s Calvin Klein, Juergen Teller’s "Go-Sees" girls, and Tonne Goodman, with a mix of Hussein Chaylan’s runway. As I’ve gotten to know myself, I figured out which silhouettes flatter me most.

90s calvin klein runway

(Image credit: Getty Images)

90s calvin klein runway

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A Great Pair of Trousers

I have three essential Giorgio Armani trousers in my closet. They mostly serve the same purpose, though some are heavier wool for chillier months. You can find them for a steal (hello $40?!) on The Real Real below. I love a good double pleat and a break right at the top of the shoe.

I tend to wear G.H. Bass loafers with my trousers—you can’t really go wrong. I’ve had The Row loafers on my wishlist for what seems like years now. My good friend just treated herself to the Club Slipper from Phoebe Philo—an even better option.

A Chic Button-Down

Most days, button-downs are my go-tos; I pair them with trousers or denim. I look very put together in this uniform even if everything around me is falling apart.

Strangely, I don't have a black button-down in my closet besides a fitted one from Yohji Yamamoto, which I love, but it serves more "CBK in the Calvin Klein offices" rather than Off Duty Important Person. I’ve been eyeing this one from Toteme.

I also have a few crisp white Barney’s ones from Sorbara’s, and Lemaire makes a shirt unlike any other called the Twisted Shirt. I have fond memories of buying mine at Totokelo (RIP) for my 24th birthday the weekend before the official Covid lockdown in March of 2020. It was the first time I remember buying something designer after I had semi-established my personal style after working for Kathleen at what was then Chickee’s Vintage. I still get as much wear out of it now as I did then. Three words: cost per wear.

Cozy Knitwear

I am incredibly passionate about knitwear. I start thinking about sweaters in mid-July. I mentioned some of my favorites in my last column, but to refresh your memory, the J.Crew cashmeres are foolproof, and &Daughter’s craftsmanship is top tier. (Speaking of craftsmanship, I recommend having Old Stone Trade on your radar.)

But the most worn knit in my closet is from Judy Turner. It is a beautifully constructed black zip-up that is unfortunately nowhere to be found online. If you’re curious you can set alerts on The Real Real. A very lucky friend of mine got the exact zip-up last winter for half its retail price. (Here’s one in purple on Grailed.)

Great Denim

Aside from knitwear, denim is my favorite subject. The Dries ones, Olga-Basha, and vintage Levi’s are my most worn.

Alex Mill makes a spanking pair, too. When I was first wearing these last fall, so many people asked me where they were from thinking they were vintage. I love the press line down the front leg. I sized up a few to wear them a bit baggier, which I tend to do with most things.

Back to Basics

The best basics since Brandy Melville happen to come from an Amsterdam-based brand I’m sure you’ve heard of: FLORE FLORE. This long sleeve happens to be on sale right now.

I’m always wearing my Cleo Tee made by my friend Cleo Camp here in Los Angeles; I was lucky enough to receive one of her first samples. Her label is cosigned by Liana Satenstein of NEVERWORNS and worn by Zoë Kravitz, Devon Lee Carlson, Gracie Abrams, and Audrey Hobert. I’m excited for her to release more of her bespoke designs–Agnes b. for the new generation.

Is it too early to mention turtlenecks? I can’t stop thinking about the depths of winter so I can wear this.

They also just recently released a polo style. This one is great if you’re someone who can pull off red (not me).

Kaitlin Phillips mentioned the LL Bean turtlenecks in Gift Guide, which is personally my most-read Substack newsletter. (Subscribe now because the holidays are nearing and that’s when things get exciting over there—the best stuff is behind the paywall.). Sophie D’Hoore is another brand I’ve had my eye on since seeing my friend in this oversized long sleeve. Also this half zip is my version of dressing sexy.

By recommendation of Laura Reilly’s Magasin, I purchased this Tibi v-neck and Auralee denim.

For me, it's easiest to "uniform dress" in the fall and winter. I prefer these seasons over spring and summer—maybe because, as you now know, most of my wardrobe is made up of great black trousers, button-downs, knits, and elevated basics.

Grace O'Neill Dougherty
Writer and Actress

Grace O'Neill Dougherty is a writer and actress living in Los Angeles. She authors the popular Substack Jelly Sandwich.