How to Dermaplane at Home Safely: Dermatologists Explain

Once upon a time, dermaplaning (a.k.a. the process of shaving peach fuzz off the face) was a cosmetic procedure reserved for professionals. You would book an appointment with your dermatologist or at a spa and lay still while a trained expert took a scalpel to your skin. But with at-home dermaplaning tools becoming more popular over the past few years, it’s now possible, easy, and safe to get the same skin-smoothing, glow-boosting results from the comfort of your bathroom.

Of course, facial hair removal is not something you need to do, and having facial hair is completely natural. "Facial hair, from a biological perspective, protected against the elements, helping to shield the skin from sun exposure and reduce the risk of sunburns," says Divya Shokeen, M.D., FAAD, and board-certified dermatologist. "Additionally, hair can trap dust and allergens before they enter the respiratory system, offering a form of filtration, especially around your eyes."

Removing facial hair, however, is completely safe—though there is a right and wrong way to do it. Keep reading to ensure you have all the facts straight and proper tools before picking up a blade. Dr. Shokeen, fellow dermatologist Joyce Park, M.D., FAAD, and @teawithmd on TikTok, and celebrity aesthetician Kristin Gunn break down everything you need to know—and disprove a handful of dermaplaning myths.

What Is Dermaplaning?

“The concept behind dermaplaning is simple,” says Dr. Park. “It involves taking a scalpel and running it lightly across the surface of the skin to act as an exfoliant and remove dead skin and baby hairs, aka peach fuzz.” The little hairs, which are technically called vellus hairs, will clump together as they’re shaved away. It’s oddly satisfying, FYI. This procedure can be done in a professional setting, but there are also dozens of at-home tools that can help you get the same results.

How to Dermaplane

Dr. Shokeen says that when you're dermaplaning at home, there's no need to play professional. Instead, "look for dermaplaning tools specifically designed for at-home use, which typically feature a safety guard to help minimize the risk of cuts." She adds that it's best to use products from reputable, established skincare brands, and to follow the instructions on the packaging exactly.

Once you're ready to go, Gunn advises, "Always start with freshly cleansed skin. This helps to prevent the spread of any bacteria that can cause acne. Let the skin air dry as well. It’s much harder to dermaplane moist skin. Be sure to avoid dermaplaning any areas with active acne."

She then says to pull the skin upwards with the tool at a 45-degree angle and use gentle, light strokes to remove hair. She warns, "Too much pressure can cause sensitivities, so stay light and feathery."

Furthermore, she says that she likes to start in the ear area, working down toward the jawline and inwards toward the cheek, saving the brow area for last. She adds that you can also dermaplane your neck, but says to wait until you're more experienced first (and to patch test), as this area is thinner and more sensitive than the face.

What Are the Benefits of Dermaplaning?

The benefits of dermaplaning are largely cosmetic. “Dermaplaning is said to make the skin appear brighter, make makeup go on smoother, and help skincare products penetrate more deeply,” explains Dr. Park. Dr. Shokeen says that this is because dermaplaning exfoliates skin and, because it creates a smoother, hairless surface, it allows makeup to sit more evenly across the skin. Gunn even compares the effects of dermaplaning to "what sanding a wall does prior to painting."

To keep these benefits in the long run, you’ll need to do a fair amount of upkeep. For best results, dermaplaning should be done once per month.

Is At-Home Dermaplaning Safe?

The short answer: Yes. But to avoid cutting yourself or getting an infection, make sure to follow instructions and use one of the best at-home dermaplaning tools. “It’s safe to do at home as long as you have the right tools and you use a safe technique,” agrees Dr. Park. She also says to make sure your tool is disinfected (cleaning instructions will differ depending on your device), and wear gloves during the process.

Dr. Shokeen warns, "Using sharp blades close to the skin poses a risk of cuts, nicks, and irritation. Ensuring that tools are clean and sterile is crucial to prevent infections."

During the process, remember that nothing should feel painful or uncomfortable—if it does, take it as a sign to stop. Once you’re done shaving your face, make sure to follow up with a fragrance-free moisturizer, as fragrances can irritate freshly-shaved skin.

Can All Skin Types Dermaplane?

While dermaplaning is generally safe, those with active acne should take extra caution. “Dermaplaning helps to get rid of dead skin cells by lightly exfoliating the skin, which actually can be beneficial for acne,” says Dr. Park. “But—and this is a big but—if you have inflamed cystic or pustular acne lesions, wounds, or openings in the skin, do not dermaplane over them because the bacteria can get spread by the blade.” Anyone with a rash, cut, cysts, or open wounds should avoid dermaplaning as well.

Dr. Shokeen also says, "No clinical evidence supports the idea that dermaplaning directly improves acne; it might irritate existing acne," so this option may not be the best route for that skin type.

Will My Hair Grow Back Thicker After Dermaplaning?

It’s time for some myth busting: shaving your peach fuzz is not going to make your hair grow back thicker or fuller—it’s a common misconception. Dr. Park explains that your hair density is mainly determined by hormones and genetics.

"Your hair follicle sits deep under the skin," adds Gunn. "When you shave, you’re actually cutting the hair off at the base, which might be thicker than the ends. You aren’t altering the follicle at all. This means your hair will grow at the same rate, width, and texture as before. There is no evidence to support that dermaplaning can cause a textural change to hair regrowth.

"That in mind, your hair may feel thicker because it’s growing back at an angle with a blunt edge (because you cut it off).

The Best At-Home Dermaplaning Tools

Meet the Experts

Dr. Divya Shokeen

Dr. Divya Shokeen is a board-certified dermatologist. She has published a number of peer-reviewed articles on dermatology and dermatologic surgery, and is a member of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), American Society of Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS), and Women’s Dermatology Society (WDS). She is currently based in Southern California.

Dr. Joyce Park

Dr. Joyce Park is a board-certified dermatologist and content creator. She is also the founder of Skin Refinery, a virtual dermatology clinic. Trained at Stanford and NYU, she is currently based in Washington.

Kristin Gunn

Kristin Gunn is a celebrity aesthetician and founder of Beaux Medspa. She specializes in skincare, with special attention to anti-aging. Licensed in Colorado, New York, and Texas, she is currently based in Austin.