Travel Diaries Blog

Many people have said being a travel writer must be the best job on earth, and I never disagreed. That is, until I met the Queen of Chocolate on my last trip to Paris.

For the last thirty years, Denise Acabo has worked to become the most renowned independent chocolate shop owner in all Paris. And she's done it while wearing a schoolgirl uniform. After graduating, she thought it was too bothersome to choose a new outfit every single day and just wanted to focus on chocolate. And still today, she braids her hair each morning and pulls one of the custom-made kilts from her closet, then tops it off with a knit sweater and collared shirt.

Her shop, A L'Etoile d'Or, is located just around the corner and down the road from the Moulin Rouge, and is tucked between several racy sex shops, which make her schoolgirl uniform even more ironically entertaining. But don't be deceived by the whimsy, Madame Acabo does not mess around when it comes to chocolate. Her shop is home to the most amazing collection of chocolates in all France. Just like a museum curator, each piece is painstakingly hand-selected from artisan chocolate-makers in villages and cities throughout the country.

Pamela Poole moved from California to Paris several years ago and is proprietor of the website Francophilia . She is the one who tipped me off to the shop, saying I shouldn't miss the Queen of Chocolate while on my quest for lesser-known places. And I was glad she came along with me because my French was no match for the rapid-fire stories coming from Madame Acabo from the moment we stepped foot inside.

Not speaking English doesn't dissuade her from guiding non French-speaking visitors through the vast array of chocolates lining the walls and filling tables throughout her little shop. She handles each piece like a work of art, describing the history of its maker, the fine ingredients and where they were harvested, and all the ways it differs from just 'any' chocolate.

She tells stories about how she convinced the famed Bernachon chocolate-makers to allow her to become the only distributor of their offerings outside Lyon. How she took the train to their shop every weekend for months, until finally, she wore them down. She tells of the lawyer-turned-chocolatier who sold everything and worked for more than a year to perfect his own original recipe. He then drove straight into Paris, asking her to be the first to try his chocolate. She tried to let him down easily when it just wasn't up to snuff, and he left in tears.

As I said, she takes her job very seriously.

After the stories, I picked up a hand-painted morsel from Madame Acabo's silver tray, and a bit of chocolate instantly melted on to each of my fingertips. She watched with anticipation for my reaction, knowing — just as I suspect a heroine dealer must — that my life was about to change. As it reached my mouth, the deeply flavorful cocoa proved to be in perfect harmony with its supremely smooth texture. I thought I'd known good chocolate before, but in this moment, I realized I'd previously only known imitations. Similar to a wine tasting, I breathed in to catch all the nuanced flavors infused into the edible artwork. Instant addiction.

The weight I gained in chocolate that day, I promptly lost in my wallet. The Queen's confections are not priced for quick sale. I carefully chose a few items to take with me and she wrapped them in paper specially printed for her shop, then tied the package up in a ribbon. I protected them as though I'd just purchased a Fabergé egg.

I warn you, only visit Madame Acabo's shop if you're willing to be forever ruined, as no chocolate will ever live up to the standards of the Queen of Chocolate's selections.

A L'Etoile d'Or, 30 rue Fontaine, 75009 Paris (use métro stop Pigalle or Blanche to get there).



Kim Mance is editor-in-chief of Galavanting, an online women's travel magazine.

What to see, what to eat, and where to stay in Lake Placid.

‘Fall into Vegas’
Get a three-night stay in a junior suite with rates starting at $399. Fall is a great time to visit - the weather is warm, the town is hot and the price is right. The Signature at MGM Grand is an all-suite, non-smoking and non-gaming oasis that offers guests a pampered and personalized retreat just seconds from the hustle and bustle of Vegas nightlife and excitement.

The "Fall into Vegas" at the Signature MGM Grand package includes:
Bottle of champagne in-suite upon arrival
Limo service provided for shopping excursion (limited to one destination; roundtrip transportation at pre-set pick-up and drop-off times only) Check out our favorite Vegas outlet here
$50 spa credit at MGM Grand Spa
Total package value over $750

Book between August 1 and September 15 for travel between August 15 and October 31 To book, call (877) 727-0007 or visit signaturemgmgrand.com

Whether you’re on your way to an epic girls-only weekend or just escaping the city for a daytrip, this playlist will keep you ladies company.

Sheryl Crow, “Every Day Is a Winding Road”
The perfect song to start off a sunny summer weekend –it’s relaxed, warm and includes beachy bongos.

Tal Bachman, “She’s So High”
Singing this hit at the top of your lungs is encouraged. Go ahead, roll the windows down and serenade some truckers.

Sara Bareilles, “Vegas”
If you’re on your way to Sin City, let this bass-heavy tune take you across the Mojave. Don’t forget to stop at the In-N-Out in Barstow!

Little Jackie, “The World Should Revolve Around Me”
With its cheeky lyrics and retro feel, this is the new post-breakup girl power anthem.

Belly, “Feed the Tree”
This ‘90s alternative hit feels like driving through the woods as the sun filters through the trees and the wind trickles through your fingers.

Kelly Clarkson, “Since U Been Gone”
A road trip essential. Instructions: Play loud, sing louder.

The Donnas, “Dancing With Myself”
Dance to this catchy Billy Idol cover in the backseat.

The Breeders, “Cannonball”
Brings up memories of college parties and summers spent by the pool.

Lenka, “We Will Not Grow Old”
A pop song that will make you feel forever young.

Joan Jett and The Blackhearts, “Love is All Around”
This cover of the Mary Tyler Moore theme song is perfect for drumming along on the dashboard.

As a veteran New Yorker, accustomed to riding everywhere via taxis and trains, I craved the feeling of being behind the wheel and on the open road. So, I set out on a mini road trip from Las Vegas, NV to San Francisco, CA (and back) - just enough driving time to quench my thirst for adventure (and the gas pedal). The drive was amazing - easy and relaxed and peppered with hilarious landmarks.

The world's largest thermometer in Baker, CA registered 105 degrees when I rolled into town and I couldn't resist taking a photo in front of it.

Another stop, which was slightly off of the path to San Francisco, was the town of Gilroy, CA, also known as "The Garlic Capital of the World" and is a must do for any garlic lover. Gilroy's annual Garlic Festival occurs at the end of July and boasts garlic flavored everything - even ice cream!

The rest of my driving time, was punctuated with a few too many "mandatory" fast-food intermissions. Lets just say I took an extensive culinary tour of Dairy Queen's Blizzard menu. If I told you I stopped at every drive thru from Vegas to San Fran you may think I'd thrown my fashionista ways to the wind. I admit it, I did pull over for a burger and maybe a few too many french fries when the first pangs of hunger or boredom hit me, but I did it in style. That style came in "thunder gray". What's better than the freedom of the open road? A fashionable car to share it with.

This one came complete with all the fixins' like a Bulgari clock on the dashboard and Bose speakers (with ipod dock!). From the posh interior stitching to the double sunroof - the Cadillac CTS Sedan exhibits the effortless style that we all strive to achieve...even when we've got one hand on the wheel and the other on a double bacon cheeseburger.

And the best of the best? This car has it's own WiFi network, so you're connected no matter how many mountains and hills it takes you to get to grandma's house.

And hey, if it's good enough for Kate Walsh, it's good enough for me - I just wish I looked as gorgeous driving it as she does.

Longer days and warmer nights are right around the corner. Summer is calling our names, and if your workplace hasn’t done away with Summer Fridays entirely, you may be considering taking a vacation.

But do vacations and leisure time match up with today’s economic climate? As many forgo the second latte of the day in order to keep more change in their pockets, does that necessarily include traveling less too?

David Del Vecchio debunks the misconception that in this recession, people are traveling less. "It’s not that people are traveling less, it’s more so that they’re getting more creative," he says.

Before opening up Idlewild Books located in the Union Square neighborhood of New York City, Del Vecchio worked as a press officer for the United Nations and has traveled to over 50 different countries. His travel experience ranges from visiting refugee camps and conflict zones to pure pleasure. Having just celebrated its one-year anniversary, Idlewild Books carries a wide array of literature including non-fiction, fiction, travel guides and maps. The store organizes its collections by country.

Since people are watching their finances more today, they’re more concerned about how their money is being spent. "It seems as if people are looking to enrich their traveling experience by having a more authentic experience such as traveling like a local would," Del Vecchio says. That’s where Idlewild books comes in—the store reports that they have seen an increase in novels and underground travel guides instead of the general Frommer’s or Zagat’s guides. Del Vecchio adds that maybe it’s New Yorkers, but there has been a higher demand for travel guides that are critical and discriminatory, as in, "Here’s where to go and what to avoid and why."

So where are people headed? Instead of Europe where the US Dollar isn’t worth as much, travelers are headed to South America, Southeast Asia, and the Caribbean where the exchange rate is much better. There has also been an increase in travel to Brazil, Morocco, and Argentina since these places have a good balance of civilization that you’d find in a European metropolis but still allot for exploration. Places like Southeast Asia are seeing travelers in the off-season since it is cheaper when there are monsoons in the forecast.

The unemployed are not exempt from this travel trend. "I think people are weighing the option of getting away and traveling rather than paying rent in their apartments," Del Vecchio says. "Some people who have lost their jobs look at this new-found free time as an opportunity to enrich themselves, whether it be in traveling or a new hobby." Del Vecchio mentions that the same trend can apply to recent college graduates. With the job market looking so dry, graduates are seeking opportunities to work overseas, sometimes through an ESL program or through volunteer and missionary work.

"Seeking opportunities overseas is a good way for the 30s-40s crowd to keep their resume current, if they did in fact lose their jobs. I think that being laid off can be liberating and that is why people are traveling to different destinations than before," says Del Vecchio. "Traveling is a good way to return to your values and get a hold of your sense of self again."

For more information on Idlewild Books, go to IdleWildBooks.com.

Enter here for a chance to win a "Destination Kit," from Idlewild Books. Destination Kits are a selection of literature, hand-picked by Idlewild staff, that suit any budget, interest and destination.

These tips will help you through an overnight flight.

Bonnaroo, June 11-14
The scene: A sprawling hippie jamboree on 700 acres of Tennessee farmland
The guys: Half-baked, mud-caked, and able to recite the set list from Phish's second night at Red Rocks in '94
Hookup essentials: Sleeveless Patagonia fleece, glowstick, and a spare roll of toilet paper
Pickup line: "I've got a dime bag and a tent built for two . . ."

CMA Music Festival, June 11-14
The scene: Nashville's all-ages boots-and-Stetsons blowout, this year featuring country queens Reba and Martina
The guys: Nascar-loving good ol' boys who cherish their GMCs second only to their mamas
Hookup essentials: Beer, cutoffs, "Don't Mess With Texas" pride
Pickup line: "You look like you could use some Southern comfort."

Lollapalooza, August 7-9
The scene: Slickly produced, kid-friendly rock-and-hip-hop extravaganza-Radiohead, Kanye-in downtown Chicago
The guys: Aging hipsters in Diesel jeans and Obama tees
Hookup essentials: Ray-Bans, next-gen iPhones, a copy of the latest issue of Watchmen
Pickup line: "When does your severance run out?"

Newport Folk Festival, July 31-August 2
The scene: Soul-stirring acoustic chillfest on the sailboat-flecked shores of Rhode Island
The guys: Unshaven, earnest, and owning nothing that requires dry cleaning
Hookup essentials: Batik blanket, peasant dress, a quick temper about Dylan going electric
Pickup line: "There's more Mount Gay in the Forester-help me get it?"

With the amount of new resources available, there's no better time than now to consider going a little more green while traveling. There are a handful of great websites that can help you plan an eco-friendly trip, or find more tips before you go. Try Independent Traveler's Go Green section and pick up some good ideas, or learn about funky and interesting low-impact hotels and landmarks around the world made from recycled goods at greenUPGRADER.com.

I've boiled down some favorite tips and ideas from around the web for five easy ways to make your travel a more green next time you're on vacation or traveling for work.

Take direct flights. This may seem like a no-brainer for the sake of convenience, but it also has very positive benefits for the environment. Some estimates by eco-travel experts say that 50 percent of a jet's total flight emissions are created during takeoff and landing By avoiding a layover, you can shave up to 1800 pounds of jet fuel off your carbon footprint.

Stay at an eco-hotel. There are clearing houses of green accommodations at places like Eco Hotels of the World to get you started. Often, using a search engine with the term "eco-friendly + [destination name]" will also yield a host of independent and unique lodgings as well.

Hire companies with a sustainability policy. Massive groups of tourists passing through a monument or landmark corrodes the very place being visited. A lot of tourism companies are catching on that going green is a good idea, but some already have very strong policies in place on sustainability and their impact. Context Travel has walking tours in various cities around the world with a size limit of six people per group. A portion of proceeds go to their charitable foundation to preserve historical and cultural heritage, and their offices even purchase carbon offsets to reduce their own administrative footprint. GAP Adventures is another company with an established record of environmental responsibility, and operates with small group sizes. They also have an affiliated private foundation which gives back to communities in their operating area. PlanetTran is a new company providing exclusively fuel-efficient hybrid car service and airport transfers in Boston and San Fransisco, with plans to expand soon.

Only use gadgets you would use at home. Even travel gear packages marked earth-friendly create unnecessary waste if it's just extra stuff. But if there's something you need for camping, or another activity that does require specialty equipment, consider the possibility of hand-cranked gear.

Visit nature preserves and high-trafficked outdoor areas in the off season. Not only will you avoid the crowds of other tourists, you'll help prevent erosion. Places like the Cinque Terre National Park in Italy actively encourage visitors not to come all at once for this very reason. Visiting when hiking trails and camp sites are less trampled reduces the amount of waste removal, and going during less hot times of year can even help reduce the occurrence of forest fires.

There are lots of benefits to being an eco-conscious traveler, and one of them is knowing you've done your part to ensure the next generation can enjoy the things you've seen. Happy (eco) traveling!

Kim Mance is editor-in-chief of GoGalavanting.com and host of Galavanting.tv.

Travel with Marie Claire's Chic Chef, Christine Cho.

As the world goes organic, biodynamic, sustainable, and humane there is only one place that epitomizes these lifestyles the best, and it is San Francisco. I recently visited the Mission District and Noe Valley, and was taken aback at how every facet of this progressive city has contributed to these movements. Follow my steps to some great finds in a city that makes the world not only eat but think about food.

Blue Chair Fruit Company Stand
Meet the home canner, Rachel Saunders, creator of these impressive local and sustainable preserves made differently every week. Strawberry Marsala Jam with Rosemary ... need I say more!

Rainbow Grocer & Co-op
Imagine a wholesale Whole Foods and you have Rainbow Co-op. Bulked oils, nut pastes, spices, and a large selection of locally made artisan yogurts. The cosmetics counter (yes, in a grocery store) carries many unknown organic labels.

Click here for more San Francisco Foodie Finds.

SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL GUIDE
What to Pack for San Francisco
The People of San Francisco
What to See and Do in San Francisco

Don’t let the economic downturn take a toll on your travel plans. These simple globetrotter tips will save you some serious overseas money.

1. Although everyone knows about discount search engines like Kayak, Cheapoair, and Hotels.com, few contact the airline or hotel for a competitive quote. Try calling them, announcing the Web-provider rate, and challenging them to match it. You could not only end up with a better bargain, but you’ll cut out those pesky middleman charges.

2. When searching for flights check all area airports. Smaller airports often have discounted fares — an easy trade for a cab ride or asking a friend for a ride across town. Also research shuttle-bus services and free parking to save money on your trip to the airport.

3. Look in the last-minute-package section of travel search engines, whether you need a package or not, as they could cost less than the original airfare alone. These bargain trips could end up being the most cost-effective even if you don’t plan on using the hotel.

4. Flexibility can be your greatest asset when booking your trip. Save money on airfares by booking trips just before or just after your destination’s high season. Even just a day or two can make a huge difference in the price. If traveling for a holiday, fly out on the actual holiday instead of battling the crowds and high prices; for peak-period flights, right before.

Get personalized packing lists and travel tips: ESCAPE WITH STYLE — Chic Travel Guide

Get the most out of your trip with these must-do tips.

I went to India for the first time a year ago and I’m already craving to return.

As language assistants living in Paris we tested our talent for tight budget travel with a one-week adventure in Spain.

If you're willing to sleep on a stranger's sofa, you might consider couch surfing.

There's nothing like a week in Florida (or a weekend — hey, we know times are tough).

With added fees from airlines, the hassle of baggage claim and the many TSA regulations, being able to carry-on luggage is a must and will make your life a heck of a lot easier. This is not to mention that you won't hear frequent fliers snicker as you pass by, lugging the most enormous bag known to man.

How to pack light is a question I get all the time and these are some of my favorite tips:

 

1. Make a list...and check it twice. Using a packing list will make sure you not only cut down on items to bring, but also remember to bring underwear (you'll never forget underwear twice by the way).

 

2. Go with a color scheme. A great way to save space in your bag is to limit the number of shoes you bring and reduces unnecessary repeats of clothing items so you can mix and match everything in your bag. The color scheme should probably revolve around a pair of your most well thought-out travel shoes.

 

3. Wear Layers and save space. If you’re going to a cold climate, there's no need to pack your bulkiest sweaters. Go with silk long underwear under your shirt and a jacket on top of that. You'll be toasty and travel savvy.

 

4. Hand wash laundry. Soap packets will help give you the flexibility to re-wear items that get dirty (or stinky) and don't take up much space.

 

5. Don't pack things you wouldn't use at home. First-timers going abroad often make the mistake of thinking they are traveling to another planet and pack far too many items. This classic mistake might be due to the many seemingly fantastic travel gadgets available, but a good rule of thumb is if you don't need it at home, you don't need it while traveling.

 

6. Buy stuff there. Since you’re not going to Mars, you will be able to find things in your destination you can not only use, but once you bring them home will become souvenirs! And you just might find the perfect face lotion or hair conditioner in a brand that's expensive back in the States, making all of your friends back home green with envy.

 

7. Go mini. Just like it sounds...don't bring a full-size hairdryer or flashlight, etc. If you can't do away with these items entirely, pony up and buy them in miniature-size. An inexpensive LED penlight can light up a room or a hiking trail with ease and easily slip into a carry-on; check out online travel stores like Magellan's or TravelSmith to find more minis.

 

8. Use Packing Cubes or mesh storage bags as a way to keep yourself organized and save space. This is helpful if you have multiple destinations on the itinerary and need different types clothes for various climates. Packing cubes are especially useful if you've got kids and need to keep things under control.

 

9. Roll large bulky items, but leave the rest alone. It’s an old wive's tail that you should roll everything in your bag and here’s why: You have to keep rolling your stuff up throughout your entire trip. Not only is this a pain in the butt, it doesn’t actually save all that much space. To save yourself the headache, you’d be better off culling a few items out, and packing things that don't wrinkle easily.

 

10. Use unique luggage or luggage tags to help keep track of your bag while traveling. This way even out of the corner of your eye. Plus, if you do end up in baggage claim, you'll see your fabulous zebra stripe bag or cute luggage tags coming from afar rather than elbowing people out of your way to check every non-descript black bag that goes by.

 

Happy (light) travels!

 

Kim Mance is editor-in-chief of Galavanting, an online women's travel magazine.