If there’s one thing that I’ve perfected over the years, it’s how to overline my lips. I like to consider myself somewhat of a lip-product connoisseur (I have an album in my phone dedicated just to the lipstick/lip liner combos that I come up with), and I’ve spent countless hours in between classes, after work, and during any free time I have, constantly improving what I call “my perfect lip.”
After years of research, I found the secret to a great lip is a tried-and-true overlining technique. “The purpose of overlining is to accentuate the lips,” says makeup artist Ehlie Luna. It can help maximize the look and explore whatever shape and maybe even size a person might want to play with.”
Now that I’ve provided some background, it’s time to start perfecting your overlining technique ahead of the summer. I don’t know about you, but all I plan to have in my obnoxiously small purses this summer is lip liner, gloss, and somebody’s (see: my husband’s) credit card. Hot-girl summer is in full effect. Keep reading for expert tips on how to get Instagram-worthy overlined lips.
How to Overline Your Lips
As with all makeup trends, there are no rules, and no two people overline their lips for the exact same reason or use the same step-by-step techniques. Some people want to fake the look of lip filler without visiting a dermatologist. Others may simply want their lip colors to blend better with their skin tones. There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to getting the perfect look for your needs, but use this as a general guide to inform your process.
Ariel Baker shows how to overline lips.
Select the Best Lip Liner for Overlining
The best lip liners for overlining depend on your skin tone. These are the editor-vetted, professional makeup artist formulas that I recommend you pick up, based on where you land on the Fitzpatrick scale.
For Light to Medium Skin Tones (Fitzpatrick One to Two)
For Medium to Deep Skin Tones (Fitzpatrick Three to Four)
For Deep to Deep Dark Skin Tones (Fitzpatrick Five to Six)
Take Note of Asymmetry
“Overlining can be used to exaggerate someone’s pout, but it can also create symmetry in places that need correction,” says makeup artist and founder of Glamourpuss, Alexandra DiBlasio.
People with uneven lips can use lip liner to even the shape or size of their mouth. Stare at your lips in the mirror and decide whether you will want to draw a thicker overline on your right side, left side, or bottom lip. The goal is for the overall lip to look symmetrical, not the line you draw.
Start Slow With Your Cupid's Bow
I’ll tell you this right now: overlining your lips can get very wonky, very quickly, especially if you’ve never done it before. So if you’re just starting to learn, I highly recommend you opt for a more natural result. “For beginners, keep the exaggeration slightly around the cupid’s bow (that M shape at the top of the lip),” Luna says. Hold your pencil vertically and gently shade a little over each "hump" of your lip.
Continue Along the Upper Lip
“Connect each line of the cupid's bow to the natural, more voluminous areas on the side of the mouth," says Luna. Follow the line you create (not your natural lip shape), keeping in mind that you will likely be shading the space between the two afterward. You don’t want it to be such a large gap that it looks like you dipped your lips into a vat of color; however, properly shading the sides can provide a believable amount of volume that makes your lips look bigger.
Finish Up the Bottom Lip
The bottom lip is the most critical to a natural-looking overlining job. Unlike the upper lip, you really don't want to extend your bottom lip from side to side. Instead, slightly overdraw in the center (this will create a pouty appearance) and then extend the line up onto your actual lip and connect it to the outer corners. While everyone's face is different, overlining too much on the bottom lip can leave you with a downturned smile.
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Meet the Experts
Ehlie Luna is a makeup artist and content creator based in New York City.
Alexandra Diblasio is a licensed cosmetologist, makeup specialist, and aesthetician in the states of New York and New Jersey. She is also the founder of makeup company Glamour Puss.
