Of all the products tasked with keeping skin clean and clear, cleansing oils are perhaps the most misunderstood. Despite their staple status in Korean skincare, Western consumers who struggle with acne or oily skin often avoid cleansing oils out of misplaced fear that their slick formulas will aggravate pre-existing acne. According to Dr. Zion Ko Lamm, a board-certified Internal Medicine physician specializing in skincare, this assumption couldn't be further from the truth.
"There's a lot of fear-mongering going on with cleansing oils," she tells Marie Claire. In reality, cleansing oils are an effective tool for breaking up and removing impurities from the skin without stripping it of its natural oils. "The best way that I like describing them is by saying that they work on the principle of like-dissolves-like,” Dr. Lamm says. “[T]hey're really effective at dissolving and removing oil-based impurities, as well as sunscreen and makeup, including waterproof formulas. Foaming and gel cleansers, on the other hand, often rely more heavily on surfactants."
Long story short, adding one of the best Korean cleansing oils to your routine can actually help reduce acne, shine, large pores, and excess oil.
There are a vast number of oils in an array of thicknesses and levels of comedogenicity, and they use a broad range of active ingredients. To find the best cleansing oil for your skin, Dr. Lamm unpacks the key ingredients, application process, and go-to formulas she recommends to her own patients ahead.
Why a Korean Cleansing Oil?
Korean beauty has risen in popularity over the last decade, introducing Westerners to ingredients like essences, sheet masks, and, of course, cleansing oils. The latter is a staple in Korean skincare.
In Korea, Dr. Lamm explains, "People spend the majority of their time of their skincare routine in the cleansing stage, and I feel like that's very different from the Western world, where it's more about the actives you're putting on your face. Koreans are known for their double cleansing method—sometimes even triple cleansing method, if you include cleansing toners and things like that."
Oil cleansers are a must if you decide to try double-cleansing. "You use an oil-based cleanser and then a water based one," says Dr. Lamm.
She adds that Korean cleansing oil formulas are especially popular because the double cleansing routine has been around in the country for so long. As a result, she says, "there are a lot more advancements and innovations" in Korean formulations than there are in Western ones. In particular, she cites the inclusion of ingredients like ginseng oil and ginseng seed oil, which are more common in Korean products.
If you're more accustomed to Western cleansers that rely on acids and surfactants, you may be used to your face feeling tight, dry, and "squeaky clean" after each wash. This won't happen after using a Korean oil cleanser. The sensation may make you feel as though your skin isn't fully cleansed, but Dr. Lamm says that's just a misconception.
"That squeaky clean feeling is actually a warning sign that your skin barrier could be compromised," she tells Marie Claire. "Any time you use a cleanser, you never want that feeling of tightness. You want to be left with your natural oils and you want to be able to move your face without it feeling so tight." Hence why oil- and water-based cleansers are so integral to the Korean double cleansing routine.
How to Use a Korean Cleansing Oil
Because oil-based cleansers tend to have a runny consistency, users can't quite follow the pea-sized drop rule that applies to gels, creams, and foams. Instead, Dr. Lamm says, "These cleansers generally have pumps, so you want to do at least two to three pumps."
Most cleanser pumps distribute a lot of product. You can use your discretion, as the amount of cleanser you apply isn't the most important part of your oil cleansing experience.
"It's less about how much you use it, and more that you want to be fully immersed in it, and you want to use it for at least 60 seconds," Dr. Lamm says. "The 60-second rule is a real thing. It takes that long for things to break down. So if I had to choose between how much and how long, I would choose how long."
Finding the Right Korean Cleansing Oil
Cleansing oils are suitable for a range of skin types, from dry to normal, combination, and even oily—"even though that seems counter-intuitive," Dr. Lamm says. Still, because they are so many types of Korean cleansing oils, you won't regret taking the time to find a formula suited to your individual needs.
Let's say you're searching for a less comedogenic (meaning, less acne-prone) cleansing oil. Dr. Lamm advises looking for products with jojoboa oil or even grapeseed oil on the ingredients list. Drier skin types, meanwhile, should seek out oils with additional hydrating and moisturizing ingredients, such as squalene, argan oil, vitamin D, or rosehip oil.
Another consideration is the texture or viscosity of the oil. If you have oily or combination skin, Dr. Lamm advises a lighter option. "Everything is a spectrum in terms of comedogenicity and how light an oil texture can be versus how rich, so you can get really creative and empower yourself to choose the right cleansing oil for your skin type," she says.
Best Korean Cleansing Oils
- Best Korean Cleansing Oil for Oily Skin: Hanskin Pore Cleansing Oil
- Best Korean Cleansing Oil for Combination Skin: Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil
- Best Korean Cleansing Oil for Dry Skin: SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Light Cleansing Oil
- Best Korean Cleansing Oil Overall: ma:nyo Pure Cleansing Oil
"Speaking of the ginseng, the Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil is a favorite of mine," says Dr. Lamm. "It's lightweight and it has that ginseng seed oil that I mentioned. I would say that this one is pretty good for all skin types, and that there's definitely no need to shy away from it if you have an oily or combination skin type."
Pros: Expert-approved; lightweight; contains ginseng; works on all skin types.
Cons: Some customers don't like that it has a scent.
Customer Review: "Provides a wonderful feeling of purity after a long day wearing make-up and sun protection." -Beauty of Joseon
"Ma:nyo Pure Cleansing Oil is probably the number one in Korea," says Dr. Lamm—and it's also a number one bestseller on Amazon US. "It does its job really, really well." However, she cautions against a particular TikTok trend surrounding the product, explaining, "People started adding baking soda to the ma:nyo cleanser on TikTok, and that really turned me off. I'm not a fan of adding baking soda to your cleanser, because that can be really abrasive and not good for your skin's pH." I use this cleanser myself (sans baking soda, of course) and have noticed a marked improvement in my complexion and a decrease in blackheads.
Pros: Bestseller; editor-approved; expert-approved
Cons: Viral trend/combination is harmful to skin
Customer Review: "Best pore cleanser ever. I tried many and this one in best." –ma:nyo US
"There's a brand called SKIN1004, and they used Centella Asiatica, and they're really well known for that," Dr. Lamm says. "I love their ampoules and I love their serums, so that was my gateway to their cleansing oil, and I absolutely love it. It's so soothing. I feel like, for those with more dry and sensitive skin, this would be a good one. It is also lightweight."
Pros: Lightweight; good for all skin types; affordable; expert-approved.
Cons: Some users find it leaves a residue.
Customer Review: "The raw materials use a combination of non-comedogenic oils so there's no need to worry about acne-prone skin owners . There are no added artificial fragrances either, just simple, no-nonsense with refreshing total cleansing performance." –SKIN1004
"Another cleansing oil I love is from a brand called Numbuzin, and it's their Easy Peasy Cleansing Oil," Dr. Lamm Marie Claire. "This one is a little bit heavier than the others that I've mentioned, but also has a little bit of an exfoliating process as well, so I feel like even though it's a little bit heavier, it may have some benefit for those with combination or oily skin. This one is really popular in Korea and it's definitely in my repertoire, that's for sure."
Pros: Exfoliating; great for combination and oily skin; expert-approved; great at removing mascara.
Cons: Some don't like the thickness.
Customer Review: "I’ve been using the Numbuzin cleansing oil for about two months now and it’s helped my blackheads a lot. It’s also super good at removing waterproof makeup." –Reddit
If you wear several layers of skincare products and makeup every day, you’re going to want a formula that takes everything off easily when it's time to cleanse. This cleansing oil from Peach & Lily promises to do just that, melting off everything from moisturizer to SPF to foundation in just a minute. Plus, according to customers, it doesn’t leave an oily or waxy residue behind.
Pros: Vegan formula; clean; cruelty-free.
Cons: Some users with acne or large pores say it wasn't helpful.
Customer Review: "I LOVED this oil cleanser. It took my makeup off incredibly easily and after consistently using it as a part of my double cleansing routine, I can safely say that it has reduced the size of my pores tremendously. Although pricier than competitors, I honestly love this oil cleanser and will be repurchasing it the second I'm done. It is acne safe and I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to start double cleansing." –Ulta
![Pore Cleansing Oil [BHA]](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/8ezmrzJQ7QfTht9e4hQtyQ-1920-80.jpg.webp)
If you struggle with blackheads, consider this BHA- infused formula from Hanskin. It relies on natural ingredients like orange, lemon, and grapefruit, and also includes light weight oils recommended by Dr. Lamm, such as jojoba oil and olive oil. But what sets this formula apart the most is its use of salicylic acid, which is clinically proven to treat acne, including both blackheads and whiteheads. It’s gentle enough to prevent skin from drying out too much, but if you have dry skin as it is, it may not be the best fit for you.
Pros: Reduces acne; contains natural ingredients.
Cons: Not as suitable for dry skin.
Customer Review: "It removes dirt and makeup and washes off easily. I like how after massaging my face for 30 seconds it actually lifts white heads and cleans my pores. It is not overly drying like some other oil cleansers I have tried. I like that there is no fragrance. The scent is mild and slightly herbal." –Soko Glam
This bestseller from Banila Co. comes in the form of a soft balm, which many users prefer over a runnier, more traditional oil cleanser. It’s perfect for removing makeup, including the most stubborn waterproof mascara and eyeliner formula, and feels silky on skin. It also contains one of Dr. Lamm’s favorite ingredients, Centella Asiatica, along with brightening licorice root. Because it’s free of harsh chemicals like alcohol, mineral oil, and parabens, it’s also suitable for sensitive skin.
Pros: Good for sensitive skin; contains natural ingredients; great for removing blakcheads
Cons: Small container
Customer Review: "I use this cleanser before wetting my face and it leaves the face feeling soft. I have tried other products that leave the face extra dry and tight. This product especially when used with a water cleanser, is the perfect combination to a skin care routine." –Soko Glam
This formula is another bestseller in Korea. It’s made with five different types of oil, including jojoba oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, shea butter, and olive oil, all of which ensure that skin stays hydrated in the short- and long-term. It’s a gentle yet effective formula that never leaves an oily residue while brightening skin with every use. Customers say it’s great at removing even the most stubborn makeup.
Pros: Removes makeup effectively; affordable; doesn't leave a residue.
Cons: Not as effective at unclogging pores.
Customer Review: "This oil cleanser gets rid of excess sebum and oil without drying the face. It's also fantastic for removing makeup gently and effectively! There's a mild scent to it, and there's no irritation to my skin... A little goes a long way." –Yes Style
While cleansing oils are great for the skin, sometimes one is simply more comfortable with a good-old-fashioned foaming cleanser. With this option from Elensilia, you can get the best of both worlds. It’s a lightweight formula made with oily skin in mind, and banishes impurities like acne and pollutants along with makeup and skincare. As you scrub, it lathers into a gentle foam without leaving an oily residue behind.
Pros: Foaming formula; removes makeup, skincare, and impurities; made for oily skin.
Cons: No customer reviews online.
Meet the Expert
Dr. Zion Ko Lamm is a board-certified Internal Medicine Physician who specializes in skincare. She is known for her popular online content about skin health and Korean beauty, in particular. She is currently based in South Carolina.
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