Step away from the tweezers. Forget wacky bleach jobs and the wimpy, overplucked brows of seasons past. Say hello to healthy, heavily filled-in arches as seen at Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, and Balenciaga. "It's all about a bold shape with a slightly square and straight edge for a boyish feel," says makeup artist Diane Kendal, who sculpted brows using MAC Eye Shadow in Brun backstage at Alexander Wang. For a softer look, "use a pencil to fill in gaps, then brush hairs up with a clear gel," says Benefit brow expert Hilary Foote.
MC RECOMMENDS: Sonia Kashuk Spoolie Brush, $2. Benefit instant Brow Pencil in Medium, $20. Urban Decay Urban Brow Styling Brush and Setting Gel, $20. Smashbox Halo Highlighting Wand in Pearl, $32.
At Prabal Gurung, makeup guru Tom Pecheux's smoky-eye look gave girls a hard punk edge, while manicurist Jin Soon Choi masterminded an Asian-calligraphy-inspired print that she hand-painted on 500 acrylic nails. (It took 48 hours!) These aggressive details are best served with grungy, bed-head hair, as seen at Charlotte Ronson. Add a gothic-inspired headband — like the spiky leather Jennifer Behr numbers worn at Fendi.
MC RECOMMENDS: MAC Pigment Colour Powder in Magenta Madness and Neo-Orange, $20 each. Jennifer Behr Leather Dinosaur Headband, $162. Kevin Murphy Texture Master Non-Aerosol Styling Mist, $25. Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure in Midnight in NY, $8. Prabal Gurung for Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure in Crinoline, $8.
Only the brave wear hot pants, but red lips we can all handle. The oh-so-flashy influences of the '70s (tomato lips, smoky eyes, swingy locks) claimed the runways at Diane von Furstenberg and Altuzarra. At Gucci, the theme was decadent luxury Ã la Anjelica Huston in all her Studio 54 glory, so makeup master Pat McGrath coated models' upper and lower lashes with CoverGirl NatureLuxe Mousse Mascara, then layered on the lipstick: A true red was tapped onto the center of the mouth over a deep wine shade "to add shape and dimension." And at Jason Wu, manicurist Roxanne Valinoti upped the glam factor by lacquering nails with a blend of CND's Dark Ruby and Bloodline, then tipped the ends with Gold Chrome.
MC RECOMMENDS: EstÃ©e Lauder Pure Color Five Color EyeShadow Palette in Film Noir, $45. Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colour in Steel, $24. Clinique Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour Eye Colour in Bit O' Honey, $20. CND Nail Colour Effects in 24K Sheer Sparkle, $11. CND Nail Colour in Dark Amethyst, $9. CoverGirl Queen Collection Lip Color in See Red, $7.
Laura Ingalls Wilder as a fashion icon? Spotted at Rag & Bone, Rodarte, and Mara Hoffman: loosely fashioned, sporadically placed braids. Backstage at Proenza Schouler, Fekkai hairstylist Paul Hanlon gave models a deconstructed braid that was just a little bit mussed up. To keep strands extra-soft, spritz hairspray through an old-fashioned cloth hairnet, advises Hanlon. (We like Wave-O-Net All-Purpose Hair Cap, $2.) Makeup artist Kendal kept skin ultra-dewy and sun-kissed by applying MAC Mineralize Face and Body Lotion and layering Taupe and Peachy Sculpt Creams on cheeks for a fresh-from-the-farm glow.
MC RECOMMENDS: Emily Elizabeth Gold Fan Bobby Pins, $14 each. MAC Cosmetics Eye Shadow in Crystal and Soba, $15 each. TRESemmé Ultra Firm Gel, $5. Sephora Smoothing & Brightening Concealer, $14. Maybelline New York Limited Edition Blush in Pressworthy Pink, $7.
The no-fail way to wear brights this fall? On lids, lips, and cheeks — just not all at once. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, makeup artist Lisa Butler swept turquoise, sea foam, and silver green from the Nars Trio Shadow Palette in Cap Ferrat over lids for a "watery, sea-inspired look that mimicked the designer's inspiration of a black swan in a green lake." (Seriously.) Meanwhile, at Jil Sander, makeup man Peter Philips of Chanel decorated the models' faces with an eccentric mix of jade eyeliner and neon-orange lipstick. Afraid of looking clownish? Try sheer textures.
MC RECOMMENDS: Aveda Petal Essence Single Eye Colors in Azurite, $12. Shiseido Makeup Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Moss and Purple Dawn, $26 each. Chanel Rouge Coco in Gabrielle, $32.
Metalheads are making a serious comeback in the form of the futuristic, warrior-helmet hairstyle created by Guido Palau at Alexander McQueen. For a more street-friendly look, take a cue from the Redken stylist — who clipped 100 Goody barrettes in each model's hair — and create the same blocked-out pattern with fewer pins. Graphic lines also extended into mod makeup choices with uniquely placed eyeliner at Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, and DKNY. "Eyeliner painted on way above the lashline makes it a little bit rock chick and totally unusual," says Maybelline New York makeup artist Charlotte Willer at DKNY.
MC RECOMMENDS: L'Oréal Paris Double Extend Eye Illuminator Eyeliner in Black Crystal, $9. Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Radiant Eye Illuminator, $15. Dior Velvet Eyes, $55. Missoni for Target Bobby Pins, $7 for 24. Mary Kay Limited Edition Luxury Liner in Black Velvet, $14. Shu Uemura Art of Hair Extreme Urushi, $38. Redken All Soft Argan-6 Multi-care Oil for Dry/Brittle Hair, $29.
At Oscar de la Renta and Prada, models were head-to-toe Gossip Girl with rosy cheeks and amusingly perfect coifs. At Marc Jacobs, hairstylist Palau revealed that the designer wanted "a look so controlled, it's almost kinky," while François Nars dusted the lower cheeks with enough Nars Cream Blush in Lokoum (a rosy coral shade) to have the girls channel "an 18th-century painting." For extra credit, those under the age of 30 might want to consider the ultrafeminine black-ribbon headbands that models sported at Valentino.
MC RECOMMENDS: Nars Lipgloss in Odalisque, $26. Goody Enchanted Bobby Slide, $6 for two. Rimmel London Volume Accelerator Mascara in Black, $9. Lancôme Blush Multilumiére in Maison Lancôme, $40. Jennifer Ouellette Tweed Bow Headband, $80. Bare Escentuals Buxom Lip Tarnish in Wardrobe Malfunction, $18.