Backstage Beauty: Makeup Trends for Fall
From slicked-back hair and berry lips to bowl cuts and fake bottom lashes, which of the fall trends can you pull off?
By Ning Chao
August 19, 2009 12:00 AMRunway Beauty: Cheeky Attitude
Cheery, bright-pink cheeks matched the flirty frocks at Anna Sui, Stella McCartney, and Nanette Lepore. "For a natural-looking, wintry flush, we wanted the face to look windburned," says Shiseido Artistic Director Dick Page, who used sponges to blend blush from the apples toward the hairline backstage at Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Runway Beauty: Cheeky Attitude
Rock & Republic Pressed Blush in Contrived, $40.
Runway Beauty: Cheeky Attitude
Guerlain Radiant Blush in Russian Doll, $42.
Runway Beauty: Crop Circle
Short bowl cuts bobbed down the runways at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Jeremy Scott, and Kai Kuhne. "My inspiration was the '60s bubble bob," says Fekkai stylist Andre Rodman, who hand-cut wigs to give the Rachel Roy models a uniform android look. "I flat-ironed the hair and added Fekkai Glossing Sheer Shine Mist for an ultramodern effect."
Runway Beauty: Crop Circle
Herbal Essences Tousle Me Softly Finishing Créme, $5.49.
Runway Beauty: Fringe Movement
"Focusing on the lower lashes is very rock and roll, yet a little more mysterious and poetic," says Nars makeup artist Ayako, who cut false bottom lashes in half and attached them to the outer corners at 3.1 Phillip Lim. "In real life, I'd draw a few hairs in with a brow pencil and use a mascara wand to blend in the real lashes."
Runway Beauty: Fringe Movement
Rimmel London Glam Eyes Flirt Mascara in Black, $7.25.
Runway Beauty: Fringe Movement
Fiberwig Tiny Sniper Mascara, $15.
Runway Beauty: In the Flesh
Monochromatic contouring is back, with a nude makeup palette at Burberry, Vera Wang, and MaxMara. "Monochromatic eye and cheek contouring makes the face sharper and tougher," explains Page, who used matte bronzer on top of foundation to create depth at Alexander Wang. "Keep the beige lip moist...a matte, nude mouth is a little creepy," he adds.
Runway Beauty: In the Flesh
Bobbi Brown Lip Crayon in Dusty Nude, $22.
Runway Beauty: In the Flesh
Yves Saint Laurent Palette Y Collector Powder for the Complexion, $62.
Runway Beauty: In the Flesh
Avon True Color Single Eyeshadow in Classic Mocha, $4.
Runway Beauty: Just Browsing
Full, defined, and sometimes elongated brows gave faces a slightly masculine strength at Tuleh, Gianfranco Ferré, and Ann Demeulemeester. "Powder adds definition to the brows without being overly dramatic," says Nars makeup pro Diane Kendal, who emphasized brows at Hervé Léger and Thakoon. "Skipping mascara and liner keeps the look fresh," she says.
Runway Beauty: Just Browsing
Anastasia Beverly Hills Clear Brow Gel, $21.
Runway Beauty: Just Browsing
Shiseido Natural Eyebrow Pencil in Ash Blond, $20.
Runway Beauty: Just Browsing
Darac Beauty Brow Trio in Medium Brows, $22.
Runway Beauty: Just Browsing
Clarins Eyebrow Kit, $35.
Runway Beauty: Knots Landing
Messy buns were an unfussy answer to updos at Rag & Bone, Jil Sander, and Thakoon. "Tease the hair slightly to make it fuller. Then smooth the top with a comb and twist the hair into a low chignon," instructs Redken stylist Guido Palau, who created the easy knots at Ralph Lauren.
Runway Beauty: Knots Landing
Samy Fast Style Styling Mist, $14.99.
Runway Beauty: Knots Landing
R-Session Pin-Up Girl Kit hair pins and accessories, $21.99 for kit.
Runway Beauty: Knot's Landing
Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion, $23.
Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth
From brick to berry, bold lips were the biggest fall trend, appearing at Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, and Lanvin, to name a few. "Superintense lipstick is strong and pretty, but skip the eye makeup for a more funky, Debbie Harry-ish look," suggests makeup artist Bobbi Brown, who mixed purple lipstick with a black cream pigment at Rachel Roy but suggests a glossier, sheer dark lip for real life.
Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth
Max Factor Vivid Impact Lipcolor in Wine Not, $798.
Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth
Smashbox Double Take Lip Color in Currant, $22.
Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth
Clinique Vitamin C Lip Smoothie in Absolute Acai, $17.50
Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook
Like a post-summer bronzer alternative, rose-gold metallics gilded lids, lips, and cheekbones at Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Donna Karan, and Miu Miu. Inspired by sepia photos from the 1930s, MAC makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury layered copper and gold powder on top of a muted-brown cream shadow at Donna Karan. The result? A rich, rosy sheen across the eyelids.
Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook
Benefit Velvet Eyeshadow in I Cannes & I Will!, $19
Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook
Maybelline Lip Gloss in Born With It and Sandstone Shimmer, $6.49 each.
Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook
Estée Lauder Signature Eyeshadow Quad in Rose Gold, $35.
Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook
Laura Mercier Cheek Duo in Whisper, $22.
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
Evening eyes assumed a distinctly '80s shape at Roberto Cavalli, Versace, and Lela Rose this season. "For a modern take on '80s makeup, define the top and bottom lids with black liner first, then sweep a strong color out toward the temples," suggests P&G Global Creative Design Director Pat McGrath, who used this technique with maroon shadow at Gucci. Adds makeup artist François Nars, who gave each model a different look at Marc Jacobs, "Black is the base of everything. This nightclub look is black pumped up with colors like deep-forest green, silvery metallics, and purple plums."
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
Lancóme Color Design Liberty Palette in Indigo Charm, $42.
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
L'Oréal Paris High Intensity Pigments Color Chrome Eyeliner in Silver Lightning and Gold Charge, $10 each.
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
Revlon DoubleTwist Mascara in Blackest Black, $8.99.
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
CoverGirl Eye Brightening Shadow Palette in Vibrant Browns, $7.49.
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
MAC Technakohl Liner in Artistic License and Colour Matters, $14.50 each.
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
Nars Eyeliner Stylo in Blue Bayou, $27.
Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors
Nars Eyeshadow Duo in Brumes, $32.
Runway Beauty: Wet 'n' Wild
Gel is back, and it's the simplest bad-hair-day solution this season. Wet-looking styles were spotted backstage at Yves Saint Laurent, Narciso Rodriguez, and Givenchy. "Shiny hair is very graphic and sculptural, but when you do a middle part and sleek hair, it can also look Indian or Spanish," says T3 stylist Orlando Pita, who went with a deep side part at Michael Kors. "It looks more androgynous than if it were all slicked back."
Runway Beauty: Wet 'n' Wild
Nexxus Exxtra Gel Style Creation Sculptor, $9.99.
Runway Beauty: Wet n' Wild
Bumble and Bumble Gel, $24.

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