Backstage Beauty: Makeup Trends for Fall

From slicked-back hair and berry lips to bowl cuts and fake bottom lashes, which of the fall trends can you pull off?

By Ning Chao

August 19, 2009 12:00 AM
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runway makeup
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Cheeky Attitude

Cheery, bright-pink cheeks matched the flirty frocks at Anna Sui, Stella McCartney, and Nanette Lepore. "For a natural-looking, wintry flush, we wanted the face to look windburned," says Shiseido Artistic Director Dick Page, who used sponges to blend blush from the apples toward the hairline backstage at Marc by Marc Jacobs.
blush
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Cheeky Attitude

Rock & Republic Pressed Blush in Contrived, $40.
blush
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Cheeky Attitude

Guerlain Radiant Blush in Russian Doll, $42.
runway model
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Crop Circle

Short bowl cuts bobbed down the runways at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Jeremy Scott, and Kai Kuhne. "My inspiration was the '60s bubble bob," says Fekkai stylist Andre Rodman, who hand-cut wigs to give the Rachel Roy models a uniform android look. "I flat-ironed the hair and added Fekkai Glossing Sheer Shine Mist for an ultramodern effect."
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Crop Circle

Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Crop Circle

Herbal Essences Tousle Me Softly Finishing Créme, $5.49.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Fringe Movement

"Focusing on the lower lashes is very rock and roll, yet a little more mysterious and poetic," says Nars makeup artist Ayako, who cut false bottom lashes in half and attached them to the outer corners at 3.1 Phillip Lim. "In real life, I'd draw a few hairs in with a brow pencil and use a mascara wand to blend in the real lashes."
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Fringe Movement

Rimmel London Glam Eyes Flirt Mascara in Black, $7.25.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Fringe Movement

Fiberwig Tiny Sniper Mascara, $15.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: In the Flesh

Monochromatic contouring is back, with a nude makeup palette at Burberry, Vera Wang, and MaxMara. "Monochromatic eye and cheek contouring makes the face sharper and tougher," explains Page, who used matte bronzer on top of foundation to create depth at Alexander Wang. "Keep the beige lip moist...a matte, nude mouth is a little creepy," he adds.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: In the Flesh

Bobbi Brown Lip Crayon in Dusty Nude, $22.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: In the Flesh

Yves Saint Laurent Palette Y Collector Powder for the Complexion, $62.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: In the Flesh

Avon True Color Single Eyeshadow in Classic Mocha, $4.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Just Browsing

Full, defined, and sometimes elongated brows gave faces a slightly masculine strength at Tuleh, Gianfranco Ferré, and Ann Demeulemeester. "Powder adds definition to the brows without being overly dramatic," says Nars makeup pro Diane Kendal, who emphasized brows at Hervé Léger and Thakoon. "Skipping mascara and liner keeps the look fresh," she says.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Just Browsing

Anastasia Beverly Hills Clear Brow Gel, $21.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Just Browsing

Shiseido Natural Eyebrow Pencil in Ash Blond, $20.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Just Browsing

Darac Beauty Brow Trio in Medium Brows, $22.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Just Browsing

Clarins Eyebrow Kit, $35.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Knots Landing

Messy buns were an unfussy answer to updos at Rag & Bone, Jil Sander, and Thakoon. "Tease the hair slightly to make it fuller. Then smooth the top with a comb and twist the hair into a low chignon," instructs Redken stylist Guido Palau, who created the easy knots at Ralph Lauren.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Knots Landing

Samy Fast Style Styling Mist, $14.99.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Knots Landing

R-Session Pin-Up Girl Kit hair pins and accessories, $21.99 for kit.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Knot's Landing

Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion, $23.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth

From brick to berry, bold lips were the biggest fall trend, appearing at Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, and Lanvin, to name a few. "Superintense lipstick is strong and pretty, but skip the eye makeup for a more funky, Debbie Harry-ish look," suggests makeup artist Bobbi Brown, who mixed purple lipstick with a black cream pigment at Rachel Roy but suggests a glossier, sheer dark lip for real life.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth

Max Factor Vivid Impact Lipcolor in Wine Not, $798.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth

Smashbox Double Take Lip Color in Currant, $22.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth

Clinique Vitamin C Lip Smoothie in Absolute Acai, $17.50
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Loud Mouth

Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook

Like a post-summer bronzer alternative, rose-gold metallics gilded lids, lips, and cheekbones at Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Donna Karan, and Miu Miu. Inspired by sepia photos from the 1930s, MAC makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury layered copper and gold powder on top of a muted-brown cream shadow at Donna Karan. The result? A rich, rosy sheen across the eyelids.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook

Benefit Velvet Eyeshadow in I Cannes & I Will!, $19
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook

Maybelline Lip Gloss in Born With It and Sandstone Shimmer, $6.49 each.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook

Estée Lauder Signature Eyeshadow Quad in Rose Gold, $35.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Rosy Outlook

Laura Mercier Cheek Duo in Whisper, $22.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

Evening eyes assumed a distinctly '80s shape at Roberto Cavalli, Versace, and Lela Rose this season. "For a modern take on '80s makeup, define the top and bottom lids with black liner first, then sweep a strong color out toward the temples," suggests P&G Global Creative Design Director Pat McGrath, who used this technique with maroon shadow at Gucci. Adds makeup artist François Nars, who gave each model a different look at Marc Jacobs, "Black is the base of everything. This nightclub look is black pumped up with colors like deep-forest green, silvery metallics, and purple plums."
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

Lancóme Color Design Liberty Palette in Indigo Charm, $42.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

L'Oréal Paris High Intensity Pigments Color Chrome Eyeliner in Silver Lightning and Gold Charge, $10 each.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

Revlon DoubleTwist Mascara in Blackest Black, $8.99.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

CoverGirl Eye Brightening Shadow Palette in Vibrant Browns, $7.49.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

MAC Technakohl Liner in Artistic License and Colour Matters, $14.50 each.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

Nars Eyeliner Stylo in Blue Bayou, $27.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Smoke and Mirrors

Nars Eyeshadow Duo in Brumes, $32.
Greg Kessler
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Runway Beauty: Wet 'n' Wild

Gel is back, and it's the simplest bad-hair-day solution this season. Wet-looking styles were spotted backstage at Yves Saint Laurent, Narciso Rodriguez, and Givenchy. "Shiny hair is very graphic and sculptural, but when you do a middle part and sleek hair, it can also look Indian or Spanish," says T3 stylist Orlando Pita, who went with a deep side part at Michael Kors. "It looks more androgynous than if it were all slicked back."
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Wet 'n' Wild

Nexxus Exxtra Gel Style Creation Sculptor, $9.99.
Jeffrey Westbrook
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Runway Beauty: Wet n' Wild

Bumble and Bumble Gel, $24.
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