Salmon Sperm Serums Might Be the Key to Smoother, More Hydrated Skin

Hear me out.

a side by side of a serum bottle and a woman using a pipette on her skin
(Image credit: Getty Images)

“Salmon sperm” and “facial” are two terms that I, in my 31 years of living, never thought I’d see being used in the same sentence, but if you’ve spent any part of the last year plugged into the ever-expanding world of beauty, the likelihood that you’ve heard about the popular K-beauty treatment (also known as PDRN) should be pretty high. Salmon sperm facials and the topical, at-home serums that mimic their results have exploded in popularity recently, but it’s not just the shock value in the name that’s causing some intrigue; as of now, the treatment has been praised by two out of the five Kardashian-Jenner sisters, as well as other celebrities like Jennifer Aniston and Miley Cyrus, for its anti-aging benefits.

“Purified PDRN promotes overall dermal rejuvenation and revitalizes our skin,” says board-certified dermatologist Melda Isaac, MD. “Typical benefits include improved pore size, skin tone, hydration, discoloration, superficial wrinkles, and overall skin thickness.”

Of course, if getting a salmon sperm facial from your dermatologist or local medspa doesn’t sound realistic, PDRN is also available in the form of serums or creams—and if you need more info on how those work, read ahead for some expert insights.

What Is PDRN Anyway?

PDRN is an acronym for polydeoxyribonucleotides, which according to Dr. Isaac, are “purified DNA fragments derived from sperm cells of rainbow trout or chum salmon.” So, to be clear, when getting a PDRN facial or using it as a skincare ingredient, you’re not exactly putting pure salmon or trout sperm directly on your face as the colloquial term for the treatment would have you believe. When these “fragments” are injected during an in-office treatment or applied topically, you can expect to see reduced signs of skin aging and more hydrated skin overall.

“When applied or injected, [PDRN] kickstarts your skin’s healing process by activating fibroblasts and growth factors,” says registered nurse Eric Nietzel-Leone, RN, BSN. “That means more collagen and elastin—two key players in keeping skin firm, smooth, and elastic.” He adds that you should think of it as “a reset button for your skin,” as it can leave it looking bouncier, brighter, plumper, and more youthful.

Are PDRN Serums as Effective as In-Office as Treatments?

Much like any over-the-counter product, you shouldn’t expect to use a PDRN serum and see the exact results that you would from getting an in-office salmon sperm facial, since seeing results from topical products will likely be more gradual than immediate. There’s also the fact that getting a professional skincare treatment will more-often-than-not include the use of some professional services and devices you can’t get at home.

“Some benefits [of PDRN], like increased elasticity and scar reduction, are more effectively achieved through in-office treatments that use microneedling or other devices to deliver the product deeper into the skin,” says Nietzel-Leone. “That’s along with the added benefits those devices provide.”

While topical PDRN serums can be effective at addressing the aforementioned issues, Dr. Isaac says that they’re meant to complement in-office treatments and facials, so you’d be better off incorporating them into your skincare routine as a way to maintain results, not seek them. “I often use the analogy that coming into my office for a laser or aesthetic treatment is similar to going to the dentist for a deep cleaning,” she says. “Your home skincare using reputable serums and products is the brushing and flossing between those stronger, more effective treatments.”

Are PDRN Serums Safe to Use?

In short, yes, especially if you're using a serum from a reputable brand. "Salmon sperm DNA closely resembles human DNA, making allergic reactions rare," Nietzel-Leone says. "However, be mindful of other ingredients in the serum that may cause irritation or reactions, such as retinols, AHAs, and other active compounds."

If you've been searching for a PDRN serum to add to your skincare, I found a few bestsellers that hydrate, brighten, and smooth skin.

Why Trust Marie Claire

For more than 30 years, Marie Claire has been an internationally recognized destination for news, fashion, and beauty trends, investigative packages, and more. When it comes to the products Marie Claire recommends, we take your faith in us seriously. Every product that we feature comes personally recommended by a Marie Claire writer or editor, or by an expert we’ve spoken to firsthand.

Meet The Experts

a doctor wearing a white coat
Dr. Melda Isaac

Dr. Melda Isaac is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in medical and cosmetic procedures at MI Skin Dermatology Center in Washington, DC. She received her medical degree from Penn State University and completed her dermatology training at George Washington University Hospital.

a person wearing a black shirt and smiling at the camera
Eric Nietzel-Leone

Eric Nietzel-Leone is a registered nurse and founder of I Wanna Be Pretty, a medical spa in New York City.

TOPICS
Danielle Jackson
Senior Beauty Writer

Danielle Jackson is the senior beauty writer at Marie Claire. She has nearly a decade of experience covering beauty, lifestyle, and entertainment and was previously the senior beauty editor at Women's Health, where she thoughtfully covered topics related to skincare, haircare, aesthetics, and wellness. Before that, she spent three years as an assistant beauty editor at PS, and in the years since, her work has appeared in titles like Vogue, InStyle, Glamour, and more. Danielle graduated from the University of Georgia with a BA in English, and has lived in Brooklyn for almost ten years. When she's not writing, you can find her reading romance novels and talking about sunscreen. You can find her on Instagram @danielleknecole.