How to Use Retinol Like a Beauty Director—Zero Irritation, Dullness, or Fine Lines In Sight

Because good genes only get you so far.

Hannah Baxter Retinol routine
(Image credit: Hannah Baxter)

Let me state here and now: I kinda won the skin lottery. My parents are genetically blessed in that department, with minimal fine lines and wrinkles and stellar bone structure, and thanks to the randomness of the universe, they passed those genes on to me. Still, any time someone compliments my skin, I make sure to both thank them and state that I put a lot of work into it. The epidermis you're born with can only get you so far, my friends. I’m out here doing the legwork to ensure that my skin legacy reaches its full, glowy, youthful potential. So, what is the secret to looking 25 when I’m actually 35? Well, there are a lot of factors, but if I had to pinpoint a singular product, I’d credit retinol.

You’ve likely heard of the buzzy ingredient somewhere on the internet by now. The vitamin A derivative is lauded by skincare influencers, beauty editors, and your dermatologist alike. It has the power to increase skin cell turnover, thereby minimizing the look of fine lines, dark spots, and rough skin texture, all of which can make you appear older. I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with aging (I love being in my mid-thirties, thank you very much), but I don’t necessarily want the evidence of my years in the sun and polluted air of New York City to show up on my face when there are plenty of options to minimize them. In addition to regular laser treatments, facials, and healthy lifestyle choices (yes, drinking more water and less booze can make a difference in your skin quality), I highly recommend adding a retinoid product into your skincare routine. Here’s how I incorporate my favorite retinols without the flaking or irritation that sometimes accompanies the ingredient.

Keep Your Cleanser Gentle

You don’t need to add a bunch of other active ingredients into your skincare routine when you’re using retinol. Doing so can overload your skin barrier and cause irritation, so keep the first part of your routine—cleansing—simple and straightforward.

Add Some Calming Products

There are a ton of soothing ingredients you can add to your skincare routine to lessen the possibility of retinol irritation. Niacinamide and centella asiatica (or Cica) are two of my go-tos to calm and strengthen the skin barrier.

Start With Classic Retinol

There are many different types of retinoids, and one of the most gentle of the bunch is classic retinol. If you’re new to the ingredient, these are great to try first to see how your skin reacts.

Move up to Retinaldehyde

The next step before reaching a prescription-level retinoid is retinaldehyde, or retinal (no, that’s not a typo). This is ideal for hardy skin, experienced retinoid users, or anyone who wants to go all in for the maximum over-the-counter skin benefits from the start.

Chat With Your Dermatologist for a Prescription

Tretinoin is the strongest retinoid option (and what I use most often) and is the proper gold standard when it comes to this category of products. You’ll need a rX to obtain this type of product, and your provider can suggest the ideal strength to start with on your new regimen.

Finish With a Barrier-Supporting Moisturizer

Retinoids have a tendency to dry out your skin so I highly recommend using a ceramide-rich moisturizer to lock in hydration and soften the skin as the active ingredient works its magic.

Don’t Forget SPF!

Sunscreen is non-negotiable when you’re using a retinoid product, even if you apply the latter at night (which is generally recommended). Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sun exposure, so stock up on your favorite SPF to protect your skin and keep those signs of premature aging at bay.

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Hannah Baxter
Beauty Director

Hannah Baxter is the Beauty Director at Marie Claire. She has previously held roles at The Zoe Report, Coveteur, and Bust Magazine, covering beauty, wellness, fashion, and lifestyle. Her writing has appeared in Harper's Bazaar, Allure, The Cut, Elle, InStyle, Glamour, Air Mail, Vogue, Architectural Digest, Byrdie, Nylon and more. She is also the founder of Anxiety Beer, a bi-monthly newsletter about the intersection of culture and mental health. In her spare time you can catch her reading too many overdue library books, thrifting, or hanging with her hairless cat, Norman. You can find her on Instagram and TikTok @hannahbaxward.