Helmut Lang's departure from his namesake label in 2005 was, in a word, devastating. His razor-sharp tailored jackets and clingy tees were a minimalist's security blanket. So when Michael and Nicole Colovos relaunched the label in 2006, they knew to handle it with care. "We were huge fans of Helmut Lang," Michael says, "but we don't rely on his past work. Looking backward feels counterintuitive to what the brand stands for."Which is to say, the future. For spring, the pair enlisted tattoo artist Thomas Hooper to create abstract prints inspired by marine biology. A close look at the resulting colorful jacquards — a first for the house — and you'll discover a very obvious sea change.
"The color palette and the idea for high-tech fabrics — like something that looks wet, glossy, or sort of transparent — came from these incredible photos of crustaceans by Dr. Arthur Anker." — Nicole Colovos