Whenever someone asks me to describe the texture of my hair, the best I can ever come up with is “temperamental.” Some days, it air dries into enviably flawless, natural beach waves, and it holds a sleek blowout with no problem at all. If there’s even a hint of moisture in the air? It turns into a frizzy halo that even the best smoothing serums haven’t been able to tame.
And, not to be dramatic, but that level of unpredictability is stressful.
I've tested my fair share of keratin-infused hair products, but I've never done a more intense in-salon keratin treatment. They typically release formaldehyde gas, which is a known carcinogen and has been reported to have adverse side effects. Plus, I’m currently six months pregnant, which means it's definitely off limits (as are Botox and my hair color—I can't decide which I miss more). I've looked into natural, non-formaldehyde options, only they won't deliver the same pin-straight finish. But my Reddit thread and research indicate I should notice a decent improvement in my frizz—without the risky side effects.
I landed on a salon treatment called Saphira—touted as a clean alternative to keratin that smooths, strengthens, and adds shine without harsh chemicals. Knowing that once the baby’s born, I’ll have little bandwidth for high-maintenance hair, now felt like the perfect time to give Saphira a try.
How Is Saphira's Non-Toxic Keratin Treatment Different Than Traditional Keratin?
Though Saphira promises similar results to keratin, the two work in very different ways. Traditional keratin uses a heat-activated formula made with hydrolyzed keratin (the same protein found in your hair) combined with formaldehyde or other aldehyde-releasing chemicals. When a stylist passes a flat iron over each section, the chemicals create temporary bonds that force your hair cuticle to lie flat, sealing the strand into the smooth, ultra-sleek, “glass” finish typically associated with the treatment.
Saphira, on the other hand, works by infusing hair with hydration and minerals. Instead of chemically straightening strands into submission, the formula restores your hair’s moisture balance so it behaves the way you want it to (AKA it doesn’t turn into a frizzy mess every time it’s faced with humidity).
“If you have curly hair, it’ll define the curl; if you’re wavy or straight, it just makes it smoother," explains Anthony Caresmel, the stylist behind my Saphira session. He notes that frizz usually occurs when hair is dry because strands pull moisture from the air to hydrate themselves. Saphira’s blend of 26 Dead Sea minerals and hyaluronic acid—which is famous for its ability to hold up to 100 times its weight in water—hydrates, nourishes, and seals the cuticle to lock in that moisture. "When hair gets frizzy, it’s really just searching for moisture,” Caresmel adds. “This treatment fills that need and keeps it there.”
My Non-Toxic Keratin Experience
On the day of my Saphira De-Frizzing appointment at NYC’s Dubé Salon, I blocked off three full hours on my calendar, assuming the treatment would take as long as a keratin session. But, surprise! Depending on the length of your hair, the whole process only takes between 45 and 90 minutes. Best news ever.
After a quick shampoo, Caresmel divided my hair into inch-wide sections and painted the Saphira formula through them one at a time, combing as he went to make sure each strand was properly coated. Then, he blow-dried my hair until it was roughly 80 percent dry, spritzed it with the brand’s Mineral De-Frizz Mist (which provides extra nourishment and heat protection), and finished drying before giving my whole head a once-over with a flat iron. Seventy-five minutes later, my newly silky hair and I were out the door.
Immediately following the treatment, I was genuinely impressed by how my hair hit the elusive sweet spot of being straight but not too straight. I was afraid that it would wind up limp or flat (which sometimes happens with keratin treatments), but it somehow came out smooth and polished with just the right amount of texture. It also looked noticeably healthier, which is definitely saying something considering it hasn’t been cut or colored in almost a year.
Even better, I left without any trace of the telltale formaldehyde scent that announces to the world you’ve just had your hair chemically straightened—in fact, the products actually smelled good. I went straight to a lunch meeting, and when a colleague complimented how healthy my hair looked, she was shocked to find out I’d just come to a smoothing treatment because (in her words) “I didn’t stink.”
Of course, the real test would come after I washed and styled it myself.
How Well Do Non-Toxic Keratin Treatments Hold Up?
With proper care, Saphira results can last anywhere from three to five months. Unlike keratin treatments, which require a full 72-hour waiting period, Caresmel advised me to wash and condition my hair about 24 hours after the appointment using the brand’s Mineral De-Frizzing Shampoo and Conditioner. He also recommended sticking with the Saphira line—which includes the Mineral De-Frizz Spray and a deep-conditioning Mud Mask intended for weekly use—to maximize the lifespan of the treatment.
After that first wash, I spritzed my strands with the de-frizz spray, then let my hair air dry to see what would happen when it was left to its own devices. I initially expected the sort of pin-straight strands that come with keratin, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover that wasn’t quite the case. Similar to how it had been when I left the salon, my hair was smooth and frizz-free but still had a soft bend that was close to my natural texture, just calmer and more controlled. Beyond that, it looked healthy: my split ends were barely noticeable, and my strands appeared thick and voluminous. It looked good enough to wear out with no heat styling or product, and I still felt confident that it will look okay all day long, which never happens with my natural hair.
What impressed me most, though, came after my second wash, when I blow-dried and curled it with my Shark FlexStyle. Despite three days of damp, rainy weather that would usually destroy all that hard work, my strands stayed frizz-free and intact—nothing short of a haircare miracle.
It’s been two weeks since my treatment, and I’m obsessed with how smooth and low-maintenance my hair has been. Whether I let it air dry or treat it to a full styling session, I know it’s going to behave—and look good—when I walk out the door.
My Non-Toxic Keratin Treatment Takeaway
I’ll be honest: If you’re after the glassy, super-straight finish that comes with a keratin treatment, you’ll probably be disappointed with the results you get from Saphira's non-toxic keratin treatment.
But if your goal is hair that feels soft, healthy, and effortlessly polished—plus a routine that’s as easy and stress-free as possible—this chemical-free alternative definitely delivers. And as a soon-to-be mom, that’s exactly the kind of beauty upgrade I need right now.
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Meet the Expert
Anthony is a master hairstylist at Dube New York Salon.
