Taylore Glynn
So, you treated yourself and bought some new skincare products you want to play around with, but you don't know where to start. Understandable. If you're feeling lost in all the cleansers, toners, moisturizers, serums, and way, way more, you're not alone. There are so many products and, unless you're ready to channel your inner cosmetic chemist, starting out your skincare routine can be daunting. "One reason applying products can be so confusing it because different skincare brands can have their own philosophies about how to care for your skin, so they recommend varying different routines," says celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau.
But once you've figured out the best skincare routine in order and know what steps to follow, it really couldn't be easier. As a general rule, after cleansing, products should be applied according to the size of the molecules they contain—from the smallest molecule to the largest molecule. Again, if you're not a cosmetic chemist, here's what that means: Usually, you'll start by applying the thinnest formula first, working your way up to the thickest.
"Anything with a small molecule, such as a water-based toner or serum, has the capability of passing the membranes to get into the skin the farthest," says Rouleau. "Large molecule products, such as a pure treatment oil, won’t do that as effectively, but do serve the purpose of acting as a sealant or proper protection to defend the skin from external stressors and allow everything that was applied underneath."
Follow along to learn exactly what the correct skincare routine order is, from the most basic to more extensive routines.
What is the Best Basic Skincare Routine?
The best basic skincare routine will vary greatly depending on your skin type and concerns, but, in general, a basic skincare routine should "involve cleansing, hydrating, and more specialized serums," says Jeanine Downie, MD, a cosmetic dermatologist in Montclair, New Jersey. "Sunscreen is a non-negotiable, regardless of skin tone, type, or ethnicity."
Beyond a cleanser, serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen, you "may add in exfoliating and toning as additional steps beyond the basics, but 12 steps are certainly not required," says Dr. Downie.
When it comes to incorporating ingredients for your specific needs, how do you decide what you need? "Some examples include hyaluronic acid for hydration, vitamin C for brightening, and daily SPF for daily sun protection," says Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "If you have dry skin you’d want to get more hydrating products that can really penetrate into the skin and replenish moisture, whereas oily skin types would look for lightweight products to help balance without adding excess shine."
So, at its most basic, your skincare routine can include the following:
- Cleanser: It "should have a form of a surfactant to take the dirt, makeup and grime off your face," says Dr. Downie. "It can also have a chemical or enzymatic exfoliant."
- Moisturizer: Either use a serum or cream moisturizer. "For hydration and moisture retention, key Ingredients include ceramides for barrier support, glycerin as a humectant that draws water into the skin, and hyaluronic acid to add moisture," says Dr. Downie.
- Sunscreen: Use a broad-spectrum water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, as recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology.
Now, for a more advanced routine. If you're ready to incorporate products like toners or essences, face oils, or anti-agers like retinol or vitamin C, follow along (and feel free to take notes if you want). Remember, there's no need to get too intense with a multi-step routine. "Our skin is a generally capable of being a somewhat naturally self-sufficient organ," says Dr. Downie. "An excessive number of products or harsh ingredients can be counterintuitive and actually disrupt the skin's natural barrier or microbiome, leading to irritation, inflammation, and flaking."
Step 1: Cleanser
Your first step in your skincare routine, both morning and night, is a face cleanser. "Look for gentle cleansers that do not strip the skin, eliminate the daily dirt, makeup and grime, and keep the skin balanced and barrier strong," says Dr. Downie. "Look for labels like hypoallergenic and fragrance-free."
Cleansing sets the tone for the rest of your routine. "This step is particularly important because it helps remove buildup from throughout the day," says Dr. Engelman. "Use gel cleansers for oily or combination skin, and creamier/thicker formulas for dry skin."
And if you wear a lot of makeup or feel your face is in need of some extra cleansing, don't be afraid to double cleanse. "Start with an oil cleanser or melting balm, then follow with a gentle, hydrating cleanser," says Dr. Engelman.
The Best Face Cleansers:
Step 2: Toner/Essence
Toners and essences are pretty similar, consistency-wise and need-wise. The luxe formulas usually feel watery or milky and are both completely optional in your skincare routine. "Toners help rebalance the skin’s pH and prep for the rest of your routine," says Dr. Engelman. "If you have dry skin, look for a hydrating toner. If you have oily skin or if you are acne-prone, use a toner with salicylic acid."
Toners are created for various skincare needs and can "double down on excess sebum or deliver ingredients to address specific concerns like texture or redness," says Dr. Downie. Add one to your routine morning and/or night after cleansing if you'd like, but it's nowhere near an essential step.
Insider tip: Apply the toner onto your skin when it's still a little damp post-cleansing. "When left damp on the skin, they give your skin a drink of moisture before applying serum or moisturizer," says Rouleau.
The Best Toners and Essences:
Step 3: Serum
Here's where you can really personalize your routine to cater to your skin's specific needs. They're targeted to specific concerns, like vitamin C or niacinamide for antioxidant protection, hyaluronic acid for hydration, retinol for wrinkles, and more.
"A serum is a lightweight formula packed with higher concentrations of actives that the skin can absorb easily," says Dr. Engelman. "Since serums penetrate more deeply than many other products, they are a great, effective option for targeting signs of aging."
Most formulas in this category are about the same weight, so if you want to use multiple, they can usually be layered together before you move onto the next step.
"These are products with a gel or light lotion consistency that contain a high concentration of performance ingredients. It’s best to use them when your skin is in a rut, or you’re seeking better results. Simply put, if you want to up your game, serums are the way to go," says Rouleau.
Vitamin C serums should be applied in the morning, and retinol serums should be applied at night. If you're using serums with strong actives like these, make sure to start slowly (apply once every other day or two days) to avoid irritation.
The Best Face Serums:
Step 4: Moisturizer
Moisturizer is a key step for day and night, regardless of skin type (yes, oily skin needs moisturizing too!). Your moisturizer helps "lock in hydration from your routine and strengthen the skin barrier," says Dr. Engelman. "Lightweight creams are great for oily skin, while thicker creams are good for drier skin types."
Moisturizers can simply deliver, well, moisture, but they can also do double duty. Nighttime moisturizers can contain retinol or other powerful ingredients to work while you sleep, while daytime moisturizers can include sunscreen or vitamin C to keep you protected during the day.
"If your skin is acne-prone, you will need to only stick to oil-free moisturizers that are non-comedogenic," says Dr. Downie.
And while SPF can, and will, come later in your routine, Rouleau suggests finding a moisturizer that covers both bases—and for good reason.
"Hands down, SPF is the best product to prevent the signs of premature aging. Sunscreen, with a minimum of SPF 30, should we worn 365 days a year, inside or out, rain or shine," says Rouleau.
The Best Moisturizers:
Step 5: Sunscreen
A daytime-only skincare step, I like to call sunscreen the final step of my skincare routine and the first step of my makeup routine. Choose either a chemical or mineral sunscreen (or a combination of both!) depending on your personal preferences.
"I recommend broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against UVA, UVB, blue light, and infrared, which is heat," says Dr. Downie. Remember, you want to use one that's also minimum SPF 30 and water-resistant.
And when it comes to sunscreen, it's not a one-and-done deal: "They need to be applied and reapplied every two hours, especially in direct sunlight," she says.
Sunscreen is also an anti-ager. "Sun damage is the leading cause of wrinkles and dry skin, and using a great SPF in your routine can help prevent this," says Dr. Engelman. "Stay consistent with SPF always, even on cloudy days!"
The Best Sunscreens:
Step 6: Face Oil
At night, face oils are the grand finale in your routine. "With regular use, they can dramatically repair a damaged moisture barrier (the underlying cause of dryness and sensitivity) and bring the skin back to a healthier state," says Rouleau, though she notes that these pampering formulas are best reserved as a soothing bedtime ritual.
"Facial oils are not ideal to use in the morning to avoid interfering with the daytime protection you need from your sunscreen. Skin oils in their pure form may dissolve your sunscreen throughout the day, similar to the way that your skin’s own natural oils can," she says.
The Best Face Oils:
Bonus Steps
Beyond these six core steps, you can also add in some other products, too. Think exfoliators, spot treatments, or eye creams.
An exfoliator helps remove dead skin cells for a more glowy appearance. Your skin naturally exfoliates itself, but if it's looking dull or you have oily/acne-prone skin, an exfoliator can help speed up the process. "If you are adding in an exfoliator, gently exfoliate once or twice a week depending on what your skin needs," says Dr. Downie. Exfoliating cleansers can replace your face cleanser at night, or consider buying an exfoliating toner, which should also be used at night. Ingredients like glycolic and salicylic acids will deliver the best effects, she says.
Want to target dark circles or crow's feet? Eye cream may be worth your while. If you want to use a targeted eye treatment (instead of applying a little extra face moisturizer around your eyes, which is what I do), apply it at the same time as your moisturizer at night, gently dotting the cream around your eyelids.
Spot treatments, whether for acne blemishes, dark spots, or anything else, should be applied post-serum and pre-moisturizer, if you so choose to include one. Use them at night so they put in the work while you rest.
This all being said, it's okay to go with the basics. "We often overthink and overdo. Product shelves are overflowing with options. Keep it simple," says Dr. Downie.
The Best Bonus Skincare Products
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Meet the Experts
Jeanie Downie, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and director of Image Dermatology PC in Montclair, New Jersey. She is also an assistant attending physician at Mountainside and Overlook Hospitals.
Dr. Downie has received focused training in various procedures and treatments. This includes courses in cosmetic dermatology, laser, and dermatologic surgery, laser treatments, injectables, chemical peels, laser hair removal, leg vein treatment, SilkPeel, and more. She performs mole removal and skin cancer surgery and has developed a selection of skin care products recognized for superior results.
Dr. Downie is a sought-after lecturer and author of several dozen scientific papers. She has spoken on behalf of some of the American Academy of Dermatology, The Skin Cancer Foundation, the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, and the Women’s Dermatologic Society. Topics she speaks with expertise include photoaging, skin cancer, cosmeceuticals and injectables, cosmetic dermatology, skin of color, and sun protection. She has also done numerous clinical trials for some of the top pharmaceutical companies.
Dr. Downie proudly serves as an educator for the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery. She has also provided focused training on injectables and fillers and has been a longstanding faculty member on Allergan’s National Exchange Forum.
Dr. Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, is a board-certified, award-winning, New York City celebrity dermatologist, Mohs surgeon, and media expert who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology. Known to her patients and the media as "Dr. Dendy", Dr. Engelman is noted for her less-is-more approach to provide her patients with optimal, beautifully natural results. She frequently appears as a media expert in media, including The Today Show, Good Morning America, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and many more.
Renée Rouleau is a trusted and sought-after skin care expert and esthetician loved by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare obsessives everywhere.
A life-long skin enthusiast, Rouleau has dedicated 30+ years to the art of skin perfection. She’s considered a complexion coach and blemish-busting hero by many thanks to her magical touch and ability to make skin concerns quickly disappear. Rouleau knows that great skin is rarely achieved with a “one size fits all” viewpoint.
